'69 Valiant 4-door w/bench seats - cramped at 5' 10"?

[cudak888]

Hello all,

After owning (and driving) my '69 Valiant for a few months now, it has dawned on me that the front bench seat simply won't move back enough give me enough space to be comfortable (I'm 5'10", 32" inseam):



It's not terrible as it is now, but I prefer to have my arms and legs stretched out just a bit more than they are now (retaining the same back angle - I do not like being reclined like a ricer). My right leg is feathering the brake at the top of its travel in this picture; the left leg is on the angle between the firewall stamping and the floorpan. Getting my foot off the gas and onto the brake pedal usually results in my shoe slapping the bottom of the pedal during the rather long distance between the two pedals.

The steering wheel itself presents no problem - personally, I find it the perfect diameter and the grip area ideal. Then again, I'm used to '70s Ford wheels, which are not that different.

I checked under the steering column, and the column is as far back as it goes (apparently, from factory - the nylon isn't marred at all). I also checked the factory rails, and - unlike some posts I've read about early A-bodies - there are no apparent options to adjust them back. The downward-facing bolts on the rail appear to be peened on in one spot, and the floor platform has one hole and reinforcement below the pan to locate the rail onto.

I can snap photos of the mounting assembly tomorrow, when I can see what I'm trying to focus the camera on.

Are there any tricks to get around this? Bucket seat rail swap? Seat rails from a 2-door? Live with it and drive like a begging dog? "Shut up, and go back to your Fords?"

Any and all help appreciated.

-Kurt

 

[VDART]

you might check your seat tracks to make sure they go fully to the rear, if they do modify the mounts or floor holes to move the seat rearward, Lawrence

 

[cudak888]

you might check your seat tracks to make sure they go fully to the rear, if they do modify the mounts or floor holes to move the seat rearward, Lawrence

They required a bit of coaxing when I first got the car, but they are

Modifying the floor is out of the question. The floorpan is recessed in one spot (per corner) specifically for the steel mounting reinforcement that is located under it. That reinforcement is welded to the rocker panel. Any modifications to that would require hacking up half the floorpan. Too drastic.

The rails are very compact and would not appear to be easily modifiable, though leaps and bounds easier than the pan.

-Kurt

 

[Princess Valiant]

you might try bucket seats ...they are easier to move forward or back by the location you drill. Plus buckets sit lower than a bench.

I proved that with my 68 dart because I went from bench to buckets and its noticeably lower.

I have the opposite problem as you because I am 4'9" and a small person so I have had to do pedal extensions and stay with a bench which sits up a little higher and gives more view over the dash for shorter peeps.

Only problem is that 68/9 bucket seats in nice condition are worth a nice penny

 

[VDART]

make a steel flat bar mount it in the original holes & then mount your seat tracks in the bar moving the seat rearward,.
Your going to have to get creative to make if fit how you want.Lawrence

 

[cudak888]

you might try bucket seats ...they are easier to move forward or back by the location you drill. Plus buckets sit lower than a bench.

I proved that with my 68 dart because I went from bench to buckets and its noticeably lower.

I have the opposite problem as you because I am 4'9" and a small person so I have had to do pedal extensions and stay with a bench which sits up a little higher and gives more view over the dash for shorter peeps.

I don't think I'll gain anything by sitting lower - if anything, it'll put my forearms even higher up on the wheel than they are now. Farther back is where I'd like to be.

Regardless, I'll have to crawl under the car and see if it has provisions for buckets around the driveshaft tunnel - I don't recall seeing any.

-Kurt

 

[mvh]

I have seen seat relocating plates -- maybe at Summit Racing. These are flat metal plates with two holes, or one hole and one stud, that you use to offset the seat track back (using two on each track). I just made a set for my 67 Barracuda with a 3-1/2 inch offset (I'm 6'1"). My design is a single long flat bar for each track -- I thought this would be better for keeping the track square and avoiding jams. Unfortunately I haven't had a chance to install them yet.

 

[mvh]

Oh, the bucket seat mounting points will not be drilled on your bench seat car. Also, the factory reinforced those points with a welded-on plate -- you can buy the plates from several sources (AMD makes them, I think). Just FYI, when I swapped from 40-year-old factory bucket seats to a brand new reupholstered bench (it was a factory bench car), my seating position moved forward at least 4 inches, and up probably 5. I used to be able to wear a fedora while driving, now my hair brushes the headliner. That's mainly why I fabbed the relocation plates -- it was freaking me out sitting that high (because the track is sloped, back = down). I might have the upholstery shop take out some padding, too.

 

[cudak888]

Oh, the bucket seat mounting points will not be drilled on your bench seat car. Also, the factory reinforced those points with a welded-on plate -- you can buy the plates from several sources (AMD makes them, I think). Just FYI, when I swapped from 40-year-old factory bucket seats to a brand new reupholstered bench (it was a factory bench car), my seating position moved forward at least 4 inches, and up probably 5. I used to be able to wear a fedora while driving, now my hair brushes the headliner. That's mainly why I fabbed the relocation plates -- it was freaking me out sitting that high (because the track is sloped, back = down). I might have the upholstery shop take out some padding, too.

Interesting. That suggests the buckets would give me an extra 4" of distance from the wheel.

I found the floorpan reinforcement plates - looks as if there isn't a consensus whether they go on top or on the bottom. Some say that the factory put them on top, but common sense suggests that the forces against the seat would be best spread by having the plate welded on the bottom.

Either way, it's an easy enough modification if I choose to do it (read = If a pair of nice '69 buckets just so happen to land in my lap without trying) with the plates on the bottom, as I can plug weld the plates in from the top. A bottle jack should holding the plates onto the bottom of the pan nicely - no upside-down welding required, and it'll keep the sparks away from the fuel venting system (thus preventing the need to drop the tank and the whole fuel system, not to mention letting the whole underside air out).

-Kurt