6lb pump blowing out carb?

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RustyRatRod said:
What I would do if you cannot afford another tank......or you are not in a position to do the job yet is, get a gas can and run a hose from it to the fuel pump inlet. Clean gas. Then you can drive the car into storage like you are wanting to do. Of course, you'll need a new filter and you'll need to repair the carburetor.
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Yeah but I would worry about a loose gas can. I did do this very thing before, but it wasn't for 25 miles. I'm going to get the new fuel line, it is only $60+ Ship. So I can do that soon enough and get it on the car. While I am waiting for the line, I can pull the tank, (Again) and check for debri. Would you happen to know anyone who sells brass floats for that year? 70 Duster? It has a leaky plastic one.
 
Mattax said:
That would be the maximum pressure when flow is stalled (valve shut).
If accurate spec. the pump alone can never develop more than 6 psi. When you see how the pump works, it will make sense.

But now you've discovered its not the pump, but garbage coming through. So lets go there.
Take a real close look at the garbage. See what it looks like with some magnification. See what it feels like. Put some photos up if you can. Lets see try to figure out if what is coming through is the sealer, rust, or what.

Anything big should be stopped by the filter in the tank. I've seen two types of 'socks' sold. If given a choice, use the one that is cylindrical.
A paper filter will probably pass the least trash, even the smallest stuff. Chrysler used both semi-clear plastic and metal housing. So I don't worry about that.
Finally, you could install the sintered bronze filters some Holley carbs come with. Lots of guys remove them in fear of reducing flow. So maybe someone has a set in their collection they will gladly donate to your cause.
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There are rust granules. Very small, but huge compared to where they are. I will shoot a pic of them tomorrow for you, see if I can blow it up. Some of it that was floating in the gas was smaller. But there is a lot of crap that got through again. I'm going with a new fuel line. Will drop the tank to check it for debri too. That should fix it. Thanks
 
if you want to buy a new line from the tank to the pump, just check around on people experiences.
70 should be easier than 67 I would hope. But here's one where several us posted our experiences.
Inline Tube
 
70DusterBob said:
Yeah but I would worry about a loose gas can. I did do this very thing before, but it wasn't for 25 miles. I'm going to get the new fuel line, it is only $60+ Ship. So I can do that soon enough and get it on the car. While I am waiting for the line, I can pull the tank, (Again) and check for debri. Would you happen to know anyone who sells brass floats for that year? 70 Duster? It has a leaky plastic one.
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Are you going to run the Holley 650? Summit has brass floats for them.
 
one way I've used to clean the tank was I bought a 6ft length of like 3/8" hot galv. chain and dropped it into the tank with a gallon of your favorite solvent and shake it like a maracas, until sufficiently clean. When done rinse thoroughly.
For the lines I use a 10ft length of brass speedo (inner)cable. You can push it in/out manually or even spin it while chucked into a variable speed drill and kinda roto rooter the lines and finally blow them out with compressed air.
 
70DusterBob said:
After we got the entire engine running for the first time, it made it about 15 miles before it started flooding. Then after I rebuilt the carb, it made it about 12 miles, then started flooding. I don't want to rebuild everything in the carb again. My friend suggested that the 6lb fuel pressure may be blowing out my needles and seats. I tried adjusting them and that had no effect on the fuel level. It is an eddy fuel pump. I can get the #s for you, but it is a 6lb pump. I'm thinking I need a regulator, but then what is the point in having a eddy 6lb fuel pump, you know?

I use a Holley 750, then tried my 650. On the 650 it started to seep around the primary inlet junction, and at the needle and seat nut and bolt. That tells me it is probably too much pressure.

What are my options and is getting a regulator better than going with a stock pump?
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What kind of fuel are you running? Ethanol 10%?
I can tell you from personnel experience that old school carburetors dont like alcohol.
If ethanol has destroyed the float needle and seat you are dead in the water.
 
70DusterBob said:
We'll see. I planned on pulling both bowls to check them out for debri and to re-set the floats. If you are right, how can I get the crap out of my line? It sat for about a year. Not sure if it is rust or varnish breaking loose and plugging the needles/seats up, but you could be right. I am on it.

I will work on it tomorrow and see what's up.
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I see you have it handled, but I can tell you how I get rust and crap out of lines anyway.
I blow sand through them with compressed air and then rinse both directions.
Think what you will, but it works perfect as long as you don't end up causing leaks in the line.

face.jpg
 
I'm a little hesitant to recommend this, because it could be dangerous, but I have found that the common inline filters are pretty ineffective in filtering fuel. The best filter I've used is one of those old Carter glass bowl fuel filters with a ceramic filter. I've also used a big fram (oil furnace)filter, but it takes up some space mounted on the inner fender in the engine compartment, whereas the Carter can sit above the engine. just my 2cents
 
TrailBeast said:
I see you have it handled, but I can tell you how I get rust and crap out of lines anyway.
I blow sand through them with compressed air and then rinse both directions.
Think what you will, but it works perfect as long as you don't end up causing leaks in the line.

View attachment 1715502459
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Beast - sand in fuel lines?
Now you wouldn't be trying to blow smoke up our *** - would ya?
 
512Stroker said:
Beast - sand in fuel lines?
Now you wouldn't be trying to blow smoke up our *** - would ya?
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Absolutely not, you know what sand blasting is.
Obviously you take any filters out and do any straight shot sections one at a time.
It will clean a line right down to new metal, rust and all.
Works perfect as long as the sand doesn't wear holes in the line, and if it does it was too thin to trust anyway.
It's ok, as I have methods that people question but they work.:D
 
512Stroker said:
What kind of fuel are you running? Ethanol 10%?
I can tell you from personnel experience that old school carburetors dont like alcohol.
If ethanol has destroyed the float needle and seat you are dead in the water.
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Yes, the 10% crap ola… Some have said that running the ethanol treatment cuts down on the BS that sticks around and the collection of water. Have you heard of any of that?
 
Murray said:
If you have brass floats, they could be filling with gas.
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Good thought, but the fuel would still be in them if it got in there right? Like after I opened up the carb to rebuilt it. They were empty then so I think we are okay there. I was asking about the brass floats for the gas tank. The only place I know of that sells sending units sells plastic floats with them. $71 too!
 
70DusterBob said:
Yes, the 10% crap ola… Some have said that running the ethanol treatment cuts down on the BS that sticks around and the collection of water. Have you heard of any of that?
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There is no fancy snake oil on the planet that will negate damage to and old school fuel system.
Chances are your carb is suffering from the usage of ethanol.
Time to order up a rebuild kit, stay away from the chink carb parts on ebay
 
TrailBeast said:
Absolutely not, you know what sand blasting is.
Obviously you take any filters out and do any straight shot sections one at a time.
It will clean a line right down to new metal, rust and all.
Works perfect as long as the sand doesn't wear holes in the line, and if it does it was too thin to trust anyway.
It's ok, as I have methods that people question but they work.:D
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Now that does sound like it would work, but... what do you rinse the line out with, gas? I would need to set up a 5 gal can on the fender or a high table to siphon it through the line. No compressed air for blowing fuel through! Yikes. Plus... Where do you put the dirty gas? I am getting a new line, just hope I can get it in. If I can't I will try this idea. I have a light duty sand blaster canister with a hose and a sand blasting nozzle on it, that would work perfect. Because I really don't know if I can get the new line past the new 3" exhaust pipes. I can tell ya, it's going to be a trick. I will probably have to cut the line in a straightaway near the tank to get the curved parts in. Somewhere needs a splice, that's for sure....
 
70DusterBob said:
Good thought, but the fuel would still be in them if it got in there right? Like after I opened up the carb to rebuilt it. They were empty then so I think we are okay there. I was asking about the brass floats for the gas tank. The only place I know of that sells sending units sells plastic floats with them. $71 too!
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The crap fuel that we get these days will evaporate off in a short time, especially if it has ethanol in it.
 
512Stroker said:
There is no fancy snake oil on the planet that will negate damage to and old school fuel system.
Chances are your carb is suffering from the usage of ethanol.
Time to order up a rebuild kit, stay away from the chink carb parts on ebay
Click to expand...

I'm not sure you read my post all the way, it's getting long. I did rebuild the carb after it started flooding the first time after 15 miles. About 12 more and whalla, flooded again. I had a cheapy glass filter on it, tossing that, rebuilding the carb, again, got new needles and seats for it. It ran good for 13 years before it sat 2 years waiting for repairs. Then the fuel line crapped up and rusted out. Now I think I need to replace the fuel line front to rear. I wish there were more I could do about the 10% Crapenol. The closest non ethanol gas they sell is 25 miles away from where I keep the car, which is out of town away from all the bad drivers.
 
70DusterBob said:
Now that does sound like it would work, but... what do you rinse the line out with, gas? I would need to set up a 5 gal can on the fender or a high table to siphon it through the line. No compressed air for blowing fuel through! Yikes. Plus... Where do you put the dirty gas? I am getting a new line, just hope I can get it in. If I can't I will try this idea. I have a light duty sand blaster canister with a hose and a sand blasting nozzle on it, that would work perfect. Because I really don't know if I can get the new line past the new 3" exhaust pipes. I can tell ya, it's going to be a trick. I will probably have to cut the line in a straightaway near the tank to get the curved parts in. Somewhere needs a splice, that's for sure....
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Please make a video of you doing this I for one would cherish the moment.
You Boy's is nuts
 
I mean it was about 30 min from the time I shut 'er off till the time I opened the bowls, no fuel in them. But that would do it for sure. You don't think it could evaporate in 30 min do ya?
 
70DusterBob said:
I'm not sure you read my post all the way, it's getting long. I did rebuild the carb after it started flooding the first time after 15 miles. About 12 more and whalla, flooded again. I had a cheapy glass filter on it, tossing that, rebuilding the carb, again, got new needles and seats for it. It ran good for 13 years before it sat 2 years waiting for repairs. Then the fuel line crapped up and rusted out. Now I think I need to replace the fuel line front to rear. I wish there were more I could do about the 10% Crapenol. The closest non ethanol gas they sell is 25 miles away from where I keep the car, which is out of town away from all the bad drivers.
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I had read the whole post
Do it again use quality parts and quality fuel
The closest non ethanol fuel to me is about 18 miles I smile every time I drive there
 
I guess I could run a 9-10 foot rubber fuel line and zip tie it to the steel line, lol? Sounds safer, but still, dangerous. I would only do the blow the sand thing on a wet rainy day, and make sure there are no sparks in 1,000 miles of me! lol
 
70DusterBob said:
I mean it was about 30 min from the time I shut 'er off till the time I opened the bowls, no fuel in them. But that would do it for sure. You don't think it could evaporate in 30 min do ya?
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No I dont
But it may have boiled out
 
I guess I could run a 9-10 foot rubber fuel line and zip tie it to the steel line, lol? Sounds safer, but still, dangerous. I would only do the blow the sand thing on a wet rainy day, and make sure there are no sparks in 1,000 miles of me! lol
 
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