6lb pump blowing out carb?

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Yeah, the engine was 180 before I let it cool down, then took it to the shed and opened it up. You could have a point there. How should I check? Seems like if I rebuild it, put it back on the car, start it up. shut if off. take it off and bring it to the shed w/o warming up the engine, that may help find it. Or I can use the vent tube, a 5-1/6" line and fill the bowls off the car, then wait a couple hours and drain the fuel take the bowl off and see....hmm
 
Yeah, the engine was 180 before I let it cool down, then took it to the shed and opened it up. You could have a point there. How should I check? Seems like if I rebuild it, put it back on the car, start it up. shut if off. take it off and bring it to the shed w/o warming up the engine, that may help find it. Or I can use the vent tube, a 5-1/6" line and fill the bowls off the car, then wait a couple hours and drain the fuel take the bowl off and see....hmm
I dont know what you are trying to accomplish by doing that?
Plan and simple
If you have 6 pounds of fuel pressure your fuel system is most likely fine up to the carb
If the carb is flooding something not correct with the carb
Junk parts
Assembled wrong
Dirt/corrosion
float settings
 
The pump fuel formulation will not all evaporate until it hits close to 400 degrees F.
That's one reason it burns poorly if there's not enough heat in the cylinder and the initial burn.
Not including the Eth mostly changes the light end, but doesn't change the rest of the formulation. :(

E0 may slightly lower the vapor pressure and improve the flame development after ignition. But winter fuel in most parts of the country is going to have high RVP regardless. E0 should keep a little better as well, etc etc.
All this to say I don't see this will get your car down to the garage focusing too much on the fuel.

Check the sock filter first. Change the line if you want. Change the hoses. Put a couple filters on. One in line with low micron (like paper) and the sintered metal ones in the feeds with springs.
 
Well we can count out assembled wrong and junk parts. We can count out float settings too. That leaves crapola in the lines. It is either the tank or the line, since I had the tank boiled and coated about 8-10 years ago, my money is on the line. I will order another line, probably stainless because the old lines didn't have the moisture these lines have to deal with. New filter, Good parts, only Holley, no Eddy parts in a Holley, lol. I have been rebuilding carbs since I was 18. Not all the time, but at least every few years. They are pretty straightforward. I can't do anything until I get the new line, but drop the tank and check it out. But yeah, it has to be the crap in the lines getting to it.

And I won't be blowing sand through the line. Not only is that dangerous, highly, how do you get all the sand out? That's my question. And with today's fuels, the rust will be back in 6 mo if that.
 
The pump fuel formulation will not all evaporate until it hits close to 400 degrees F.
That's one reason it burns poorly if there's not enough heat in the cylinder and the initial burn.
Not including the Eth mostly changes the light end, but doesn't change the rest of the formulation. :(

E0 may slightly lower the vapor pressure and improve the flame development after ignition. But winter fuel in most parts of the country is going to have high RVP regardless. E0 should keep a little better as well, etc etc.
All this to say I don't see this will get your car down to the garage focusing too much on the fuel.

Check the sock filter first. Change the line if you want. Change the hoses. Put a couple filters on. One in line with low micron (like paper) and the sintered metal ones in the feeds with springs.

Thanks Mattax
 
There is no fancy snake oil on the planet that will negate damage to and old school fuel system.
Chances are your carb is suffering from the usage of ethanol.
Time to order up a rebuild kit, stay away from the chink carb parts on ebay

Ethanol doesn't cause your carb to fill up with chunks and stick a needle and seat open.
I never have had one single E related issue, ever and I run carbs on all three of our classics.

Now that does sound like it would work, but... what do you rinse the line out with, gas? I would need to set up a 5 gal can on the fender or a high table to siphon it through the line. No compressed air for blowing fuel through! Yikes. Plus... Where do you put the dirty gas? I am getting a new line, just hope I can get it in. If I can't I will try this idea. I have a light duty sand blaster canister with a hose and a sand blasting nozzle on it, that would work perfect. Because I really don't know if I can get the new line past the new 3" exhaust pipes. I can tell ya, it's going to be a trick. I will probably have to cut the line in a straightaway near the tank to get the curved parts in. Somewhere needs a splice, that's for sure....

I rinse them with anything I have available.
Even plain dry air gets most of it, as it's just a metal tube.
I think some people are too scared of gas.:D

Please make a video of you doing this I for one would cherish the moment.
You Boy's is nuts

This is exactly why I hesitate to tell you guys any good tricks.:D


I guess I could run a 9-10 foot rubber fuel line and zip tie it to the steel line, lol? Sounds safer, but still, dangerous. I would only do the blow the sand thing on a wet rainy day, and make sure there are no sparks in 1,000 miles of me! lol

Jees, ya just blow the line out with air first, it's not nitro glycerin.


Well we can count out assembled wrong and junk parts. We can count out float settings too. That leaves crapola in the lines. It is either the tank or the line, since I had the tank boiled and coated about 8-10 years ago, my money is on the line. I will order another line, probably stainless because the old lines didn't have the moisture these lines have to deal with. New filter, Good parts, only Holley, no Eddy parts in a Holley, lol. I have been rebuilding carbs since I was 18. Not all the time, but at least every few years. They are pretty straightforward. I can't do anything until I get the new line, but drop the tank and check it out. But yeah, it has to be the crap in the lines getting to it.

And I won't be blowing sand through the line. Not only is that dangerous, highly, how do you get all the sand out? That's my question. And with today's fuels, the rust will be back in 6 mo if that.

You already have sand, it's just a bit different makup.
Just blowing the lines out leaves the inside of the line covered in rust that breaks off continually filling your carb and sticking the needle and seat.
The sand being blown through scrubs that crap off the inside of the line, then a little air and about any liquid rinses it out.

Stainless is a good option for longevity, but it sure is a pain in the backside to run.
Like I said before, I think you got it handled.:D
 
Ethanol doesn't cause your carb to fill up with chunks and stick a needle and seat open.
I never have had one single E related issue, ever and I run carbs on all three of our classics.



I rinse them with anything I have available.
Even plain dry air gets most of it, as it's just a metal tube.
I think some people are too scared of gas.:D



This is exactly why I hesitate to tell you guys any good tricks.:D




Jees, ya just blow the line out with air first, it's not nitro glycerin.




You already have sand, it's just a bit different makup.
Just blowing the lines out leaves the inside of the line covered in rust that breaks off continually filling your carb and sticking the needle and seat.
The sand being blown through scrubs that crap off the inside of the line, then a little air and about any liquid rinses it out.

Stainless is a good option for longevity, but it sure is a pain in the backside to run.
Like I said before, I think you got it handled.:D

Hey TrailBeast... I fully understand the concept of sand blasting the inside of the line, problem is I would be left with bare metal inside which would inevitably rust. again. I opted for the steel line, a new tank, and a new sending unit. I just have to wait till they get here. Say, how difficult is it to swap fuel lines anyway. Is it something I can do with a floor jack, some good jack stands and on my back? I sure hope so. Damn garages don't charge less than $120/hr any more. That would take them at least 3 hrs, where I could get it done in 2. Not only that, they would have the car there a month or so while it waits in line for the work. ugh. Anything I can do at home the better.

If I were to sand blast a line, I would take it out of the car, let it sit in the Tx sun for a couple days, "Then" send sand through it, then maybe just air to blow the crap out. It's a good idea, but like you said, a lot of people are scared of gas, with good reason, but if you do it right and be careful, you could do it.

I have a little trick I use when my carb is freshly rebuilt and it is on the car ready to start. You know how you have to turn the motor over a whole bunch of times to fill the carb with gas? Well, not if you use a 5/16" fuel line at the end of a small funnel whose smallest end is about just over 5/16"! Just fill the bowls through the vent tubes with fresh gas, and she'll fire up right away, no burnin' the starter up! That is one of my favorite tricks.
 
Hey TrailBeast... I fully understand the concept of sand blasting the inside of the line, problem is I would be left with bare metal inside which would inevitably rust. again. I opted for the steel line, a new tank, and a new sending unit. I just have to wait till they get here. Say, how difficult is it to swap fuel lines anyway. Is it something I can do with a floor jack, some good jack stands and on my back? I sure hope so. Damn garages don't charge less than $120/hr any more. That would take them at least 3 hrs, where I could get it done in 2. Not only that, they would have the car there a month or so while it waits in line for the work. ugh. Anything I can do at home the better.

If I were to sand blast a line, I would take it out of the car, let it sit in the Tx sun for a couple days, "Then" send sand through it, then maybe just air to blow the crap out. It's a good idea, but like you said, a lot of people are scared of gas, with good reason, but if you do it right and be careful, you could do it.

I have a little trick I use when my carb is freshly rebuilt and it is on the car ready to start. You know how you have to turn the motor over a whole bunch of times to fill the carb with gas? Well, not if you use a 5/16" fuel line at the end of a small funnel whose smallest end is about just over 5/16"! Just fill the bowls through the vent tubes with fresh gas, and she'll fire up right away, no burnin' the starter up! That is one of my favorite tricks.

Even steel line is kinda tough and that's even if you have a tubing bender.
It takes a lot of time and patience to do a decent job.
Stainless is ruthless for a few reasons.:D

I started being involved in machinery mechanics when I was about 10 years old with my Father and his projects, so some of the stuff I learned from him.
Realise that this was 54 years ago, and far from the convenience of local stores for parts even if the money for those parts was there.

By the time I was 15 I had 5 vehicles of my own.
I didn't have a job other than going to school and the stuff the family needed, like splitting firewood and helping to keep the vehicles and equipment running.

I got the cars and trucks I had by walking around and asking about them when I saw them parked in someones back property or fields.
The only money I had was .25 cents a day for school lunch. (At the time that 25 cents would buy a gallon of gas for my 1958 Chrysler Windsor or the 46 Ford truck I drove.) or for my dirtbike.
Being the situation it was I had to learn to improvise, or how to make some part of the stuff I was working on work again with little to no resources financially.

This is where some of that "it works, but maybe not the best solution" attitude comes from.
I learned early on how to get things going again on little to no cost.

On the last subject about carb priming.
I run an electric pump, so I turn the key on to prime the carb if it's empty.:poke::D

I run 3/8 nylon 12 high pressure EFI fuel supply and Holley pump with a recirculating system return to the tank.
It keeps cooler fuel close to the carb supply but maintains about 7lbs of pressure using an orifice in the return line as a restriction instead of having a pressure regulator.
Nylon is WAY easier to run, but you have things to consider like attaching points and keeping the fuel line out of harms way and wrapping it with protective covering.

Now here's a tip for you.:D
Shop vac hose from Home Depot makes great defroster hose.
It looks good installed and a heat gun lets you shape it to stay where and how you want it to run.
AND they even come with adapters for the hoses which work great to use as reducers for the smaller of the hose connections on the heater box.

BTW, gas evaporates out of a fuel line in seconds if you blow straight air first.
The worst thing is varnish because it sticks the sand in the line and plugs it up, so it takes a bit more time, (and gas to rinse it out):D

That's what I did with our totally stock 72 Swinger because of this, and it's been 3-4 years now running great.
Look familiar?:D

SANY0007.JPG
 
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Even steel line is kinda tough and that's even if you have a tubing bender.
It takes a lot of time and patience to do a decent job.
Stainless is ruthless for a few reasons.:D

I started being involved in machinery mechanics when I was about 10 years old with my Father and his projects, so some of the stuff I learned from him.
Realise that this was 54 years ago, and far from the convenience of local stores for parts even if the money for those parts was there.

By the time I was 15 I had 5 vehicles of my own.
I didn't have a job other than going to school and the stuff the family needed, like splitting firewood and helping to keep the vehicles and equipment running.

I got the cars and trucks I had by walking around and asking about them when I saw them parked in someones back property or fields.
The only money I had was .25 cents a day for school lunch. (At the time that 25 cents would buy a gallon of gas for my 1958 Chrysler Windsor or the 46 Ford truck I drove.) or for my dirtbike.
Being the situation it was I had to learn to improvise, or how to make some part of the stuff I was working on work again with little to no resources financially.

This is where some of that "it works, but maybe not the best solution" attitude comes from.
I learned early on how to get things going again on little to no cost.

On the last subject about carb priming.
I run an electric pump, so I turn the key on to prime the carb if it's empty.:poke::D

I run 3/8 nylon 12 high pressure EFI fuel supply and Holley pump with a recirculating system return to the tank.
It keeps cooler fuel close to the carb supply but maintains about 7lbs of pressure using an orifice in the return line as a restriction instead of having a pressure regulator.
Nylon is WAY easier to run, but you have things to consider like attaching points and keeping the fuel line out of harms way and wrapping it with protective covering.

Now here's a tip for you.:D
Shop vac hose from Home Depot makes great defroster hose.
It looks good installed and a heat gun lets you shape it to stay where and how you want it to run.
AND they even come with adapters for the hoses which work great to use as reducers for the smaller of the hose connections on the heater box.

BTW, gas evaporates out of a fuel line in seconds if you blow straight air first.
The worst thing is varnish because it sticks the sand in the line and plugs it up, so it takes a bit more time, (and gas to rinse it out):D

That's what I did with our totally stock 72 Swinger because of this, and it's been 3-4 years now running great.
Look familiar?:D

View attachment 1715503571

Hey, sounds like you had it rough, which is an understatement.

I can't fully reply right now. I'm on my dinky phone. But I will try to get a good reply off tomorrow.

Some of us learn more than we live and some live more than they learn.

Thanks
 
Well we can count out assembled wrong and junk parts. We can count out float settings too. That leaves crapola in the lines. It is either the tank or the line, since I had the tank boiled and coated about 8-10 years ago, my money is on the line. I will order another line, probably stainless because the old lines didn't have the moisture these lines have to deal with. New filter, Good parts, only Holley, no Eddy parts in a Holley, lol. I have been rebuilding carbs since I was 18. Not all the time, but at least every few years. They are pretty straightforward. I can't do anything until I get the new line, but drop the tank and check it out. But yeah, it has to be the crap in the lines getting to it.

And I won't be blowing sand through the line. Not only is that dangerous, highly, how do you get all the sand out? That's my question. And with today's fuels, the rust will be back in 6 mo if that.

I had coating on my tank let go and clog everything in the system from the sock all the way to the carburetor.
 
take tank out and fill it with 2 lbs of gravel and tape up the holes. Zip tie it to a cement mixer and run it for an hour. Remove gravel and run some gas in there and rinse a few times. Farm style......
 
Hey, sounds like you had it rough, which is an understatement.

I can't fully reply right now. I'm on my dinky phone. But I will try to get a good reply off tomorrow.

Some of us learn more than we live and some live more than they learn.

Thanks

It didn't feel rough at the time, it was normal.
One thing it did was let me appreciate how much better things can be later on in life.
If I have to fix something in the rain or blowing wind I think back how I used to have to do it in three feet of snow at 10 degrees.:D

One specific instance I still remember well was having to find, clean off and install the wheel drive chains on our road grader in a couple of feet of frozen over snow.
Each chain was about 16 feet long with links the size of house bricks and frozen to the ground even after we did locate them.
We used pry bars to get them loose and a blow torch to melt the ice off before we snaked them through the gear boxes and onto the sprockets.
Once we got it put together and the 20 gallons of cold *** gear oil in them, we still had to drive it 25 miles home in the storm with no windows in it.
Bout froze my *** off.
That was a rough day, and when we were home and all done my Dad thanked me for my help and told me most grown men he knew couldn't have done what I helped him do that day.:D
I think I was about 14 then.


I had coating on my tank let go and clog everything in the system from the sock all the way to the carburetor.

Never used coating on a car tank, but on a few motorcycles.
Yea, it usually ended up coming loose and making a mess at some point.


take tank out and fill it with 2 lbs of gravel and tape up the holes. Zip tie it to a cement mixer and run it for an hour. Remove gravel and run some gas in there and rinse a few times. Farm style......

I have done this before as well (minus the mixer) and it works great, but God forbid I mentioned that here. :D
I once needed to clean a scuba tank, so I put and handful of 1/4 ball bearings in the tank and about 3 feet brake line on an air hose.
Ziptied the air on part way and let it go for 1/2 hour.
Worked great.
 
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If a new tank is available, and the vehicle is worth keeping, coating inside a tank sounds like a short time fix. 20 years ago I bought a brass tank float for $ 10. From Herbs moparts? Does your Ed pump have an internal regulator ? Probably. My carter street and strip 6-7 psi does - and sometimes the 10% ethanol causes the internal reg. to stick
 
I had the tank boiled and cleaned, then seal coated about maybe 10 years ago. Do you think it is holding up?

You could find out what's in the tank. Get your 1/2" "Oklahoma Credit Card" out, siphon the gas into a container you can see what settles and floats. If my old tank innards was rusted I wouldn't have even bothered with trying to clean it. Just cleaning the outside was a PITA.
 
It didn't feel rough at the time, it was normal.
One thing it did was let me appreciate how much better things can be later on in life.
If I have to fix something in the rain or blowing wind I think back how I used to have to do it in three feet of snow at 10 degrees.:D

Well, you learned to appreciate our modern conveniences. Some people never have and never will for some reason. I had a hard upbringing and let me tell ya, I super appreciate not being a kid anymore. Like you said it seemed normal at the time, didn't know any better, but now that I don't have to deal with all the problems, don't suffer like I did. I surrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrre appreciate it!!!

I gotta send you a PM, just to let you know it's coming.

Called Holley, he said something is wrong with the floats. Could be the crap, could be that there is gas in the floats, I know they were set right, but for some reason they are letting fuel in when I am coming to a stop. Too much fuel for the engine to stay running. I am bought new hardware kits to get new springs, bought new floats to make sure there isn't the slightest amount of fuel in them, they are at least 20 years old, so are the springs, rebuilding the carb, again, and I changed the filter to a 33033 Wix. Now that ought to fix it, but since my line is dumping rust into the carb, and the float on the sending unit has gas in it, I am getting the tank, sending unit and line. I do have a pair of tubing benders, so I feel pretty sure I can swap out the line. If all that doesn't do it I will be back with more questions.

Thanks for everyone's help!
 
If a new tank is available, and the vehicle is worth keeping, coating inside a tank sounds like a short time fix. 20 years ago I bought a brass tank float for $ 10. From Herbs moparts? Does your Ed pump have an internal regulator ? Probably. My carter street and strip 6-7 psi does - and sometimes the 10% ethanol causes the internal reg. to stick

I'm not sure about the pump, going with a new tank. I have to get a fuel press gauge to see what's up with the press anyway, I guess that will tell me if it's going higher than that. Holley said bouncing between 5-7psi is not a problem for the carb.
 
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