72 demon 340... again

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lildemonkid

lildemonkid

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well i had a post befor but no one paid much attention after awhile. i'm selling a 72 demon 340 that runs and drives.(i drive it daily except in the rain or snow. car came out of buffalo NY. has body rust and inside of drivers rear fender has rust. built 340 with 292/508 purple cam and roller tip rockers. dual feed single pumper 750 cfm carb. headers and flowmaster 40 exhaust out the side in front of rear tires. centerline drag lite wheels all around. built 727 auto with shift kit and reverse manual valvebody. subframe connectors and drive shaft loop. oh and can't forget 4.11 gears and sure grip in 8 3/4. has washer on front of k member to verify real 340 car. will e-mail more pictures if needed.

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oh. sorry about that guys. i'm asking 9k but it's negotiable. I haven't found a build sheet. it is an original 340 car. i said that in the first page. if you look on here there is a thread about washers being welded to the front of the k members for 340 cars only and this car has it. it also has the 4 piston disc brakes in the front and drums in the rear. i forgot to put that. and yes that is my last attempt at selling this car.
 
i think the 9g and the rust are scaring everybody off.
 
yeah. it's not even that bad. i need the money. and it's not like it's a basket case. i drive the thing every day. yes there are rust holes. but the frame is solid. i've checked several times. idk what to do. i can't afford to keep it and if i can't sell if for this price i'm screwed on getting another car. i've advertised in tons of places.
 
Put It On Ebag .
I Nice Tb3 Blue Demon Was On Last Week. It Reached 6,600.00
Good Luck
 
yep people don't want to pay 9k for a car that needs 6-10k in body work that also doesn't have build sheet/fender tag. ( I think thats what I saw in your last post.)
 
ok then make another offer. but please be reasonable. i'm not trying to sell something that's not worth it. most of the car is all new. the only thing is the outside of the body. and i restate that. the OUTSIDE of the body is rusted. that's all. the underbody is solid and so is the frame. if you do the sheet metal work yourself it'll be like 500 bucks. then a little bondo to even it out and its straight.
 
listen guys i just don't have the money to do anything to the car. and i need something to drive. if someone wants to trade for a newer 5 or 6 speed car then i would be fine with that.
 
in comparison i bought this car in march for $2000Canadian (about $1600US at the time)
its a solid numbers matching GY3 340 4spd car. 100% numbers match right down to the carb and distibutor. been parked in heated storage since 1982 and not driven.
there are 2- 3" holes behind the real wheel that the previous owner started bodywork on (bondo'd them closed) other than that its super clean and nice. even has its original glass and came wiht a nos grill
it needs paint which it will get this year but its a more desirable car than a 72 and it was $1600

not trying to burst your bubble, it probably will sell for around 4-5g i would think on eBay. i have found eBay has buyers, websites have picture collectors.

IMG_0001.jpg
 
I have to agree with the other posters. Its alot of money for a car with rust issues and 9K would buy a nice 318 car with 3-4 K left to find a 340 and you wouldn't have to do body work. If you selling it as an original 340 car which I beleve it probably is the lack of fender tags and build sheet hurts, especially the fender tags.
 
Chrisf this is a running driving car. not a car that has to be put together. no matter how you compare the cars it's not close. i've ben driving this car for a year now. daily! furz4 i know it hurts and i'm currently in the works of tracking the car back through the years. i don't know how to tell you people that it is original without being asked for a fender tag or a build sheet. there is a thread that another member told me to look into. it's about washers being welded to the front of the k-members of 340 cars at the factory for id. so i checked into it and sure enough my car has the washer. so i know at least that much is original not to mention the fact that the block is date stamped 71 (early production cars). if you want to buy the car then keep asking questions if not then ridecule someone else. this is getting aggravating.
 
i don't know how to tell you people that it is original without being asked for a fender tag or a build sheet. there is a thread that another member told me to look into. it's about washers being welded to the front of the k-members of 340 cars at the factory for id. so i checked into it and sure enough my car has the washer. so i know at least that much is original
Click to expand...
You seem to keep coming back to the washer thing. How do you know the K-member was not changed at some point?
What is the engine code in the VIN on the dash, or is that missing too?

Dennis

And before you think I am "rideculing" you, I just went through the same situation. I sold this Demon
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=60329

Mine WAS a real "H" code car, but without the buildsheet and fender tag, that doesn't mean much unfortuantly
 
The rust is "That bad" The rockers are toast and so are the rear 1/4s (around the wheels) from what I have seen.

Anyone can weld a washer to the K-member in under a minute (not that you did, Im just saying it could be done).

The vin will say if its a 340 car and thats more proof than a washer.

I wish you the best of luck on the sale but I think the price is high for todays market.


I didn't get one bite when I asked $20,000 for my car and its in way better shape and has 62,000 original miles.

DSC00056.jpg
 
lildemonkid .... will just have to learn....when the item is not selling....just keep lowering the price until it does sell. I followed a car on this forum for 14 months..........it went from $29,900.00 down to $17,500.00. It took 14 months and I waited 2 days to long to pull the trigger. Someone else got one heck of a deal.
Just my $.01 cent worth with inflation
 
lildemonkid said:
Chrisf this is a running driving car. not a car that has to be put together. no matter how you compare the cars it's not close. i've ben driving this car for a year now. daily! furz4 i know it hurts and i'm currently in the works of tracking the car back through the years. i don't know how to tell you people that it is original without being asked for a fender tag or a build sheet. there is a thread that another member told me to look into. it's about washers being welded to the front of the k-members of 340 cars at the factory for id. so i checked into it and sure enough my car has the washer. so i know at least that much is original not to mention the fact that the block is date stamped 71 (early production cars). if you want to buy the car then keep asking questions if not then ridecule someone else. this is getting aggravating.
Click to expand...

Are you asking $9k because (1) you think that what it should sell for or (2) that's what you need to get another car as a daily driver?

If it's the first reason, then it *should* sell quite quickly as buyers would be lining up to pay that amount (or close to it).
If it's the second reason, then asking a buyer to fund (over pay so you can afford your next car) your next car isn't going sell the car.


The car that chrisf purchased has everything but needs minor metal/body work followed by paint. Your car needs significantly more metal work and then paint. Let's take a conservative view and say that each car will get equal quality paint jobs ($3k). Metal/body work on your car will probably be at least double (choose any figure but let's use $7k) compared the other car ($3.5k).

So someone would buy your car for $9k and spend another $10k on body and paint (total $19k) or pay $2k and then $6k for body and paint (total $8.5k)?

I think the majority of people knowledgeable about cars would start with as rust free a car as possible. Paying more for a car with rust to restore compared to paying less for one with little rust to restore doesn't make sense.
 
i was just comparing mine to yours. i didnt mean to hack you personally.

good luck selling your car.
 
yes the vin tag on the dash decodes as a true 340 car. yes i'm selling it for 9k because that's what i think it's worth. 8,500?
 
Or are you fishing for 9000 because you paid way more than that??
 
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