72 Duster 392/ 8hp70 Build

[DusterMike72]

**THIS HAS NOW BEEN TURNED INTO MY BUILD THREAD**

Hey guys Mopar noob and just picked up another 72 Duster. along with that i also picked up a 2017 392 with 8hp70, wire harness, ecu, shifter, gas pedal and key. I am newish to the Mopar world coming from mostly old school sbc and then LS stuff. ive done multiple swaps of those. my first car was a 72 duster so when i was finally able to find another one i pick it up and now i wanna make it into i guess my kinda dream build with a budget. yes i know i can buy a stand alone setup and ive used them before with my LS swaps but ive also done those mostly with just stock ecu, harnesses, etc..

With that said..... ive been doing ALOT of searching on this forum, on facebook and google but cant find answers.

1. is it possible to make this thing run with what i have? (wire harness, ecu, shifter, gas pedal and key.)
2. am i missing anything else from the donor car that would be needed? (not talking about fuel related stuff)
3. on the ecu there is 2 plugs but my harness only has one. what does the other side control?
4. is there a sub harness that connects to the gas pedal?

Im sure theres gonna be other questions but thats the main one si can think of
i know ill need some kinda fuse block to power this harness. hopefully dont have to use that big ugly TIPM stuff if thats needed like ive been seeing.

yes ive looked at like all the stand alone options. I was about to pull the plug on the maxxecu setup but after emailing them they just confused me more. then talking with some friends they suggested to see if its possible to make this stock stuff i have work.

any help is greatly appreciated!!

 

[AUSA66]

Yes a lot of people say fit this or that but when you ask the manufacturer they don't know much about interfacing it with a dodge engine.
Some of the controllers are oversold with blips, laps & cuts i use the Sound German controller easy to set up plug in & you need help call Russell he will help if you have a Challenger box normally it will have cruise, sport & track mode same as an SRT which i find more than enough, If that is a 4 wheel drive box it may have to be reflashed even though it will work in normal drive mode it may not have sport & track mode which adds a next level to the drive

 

[DionR]

Look at Sublime’s Quick Run kit. It plugs into the missing plug on your PCM and would run the motor (and trans?) and includes the PDC you would need.

2015-2023 Car R2 QuickRun Hemi Harness (HQR-1005)

Tech Specs Plug and Play into your existing Hemi engine harness Wire Ends labeled so you know where to connect (12V+, Ground, Fuel Pump, Starter, etc.) Designed 100% by DIYHEMI, for maximum protection against abrasion and high temps in the engine bay. All of our products come with the best...

sublimeparts.com

You will need the PCM unlocked and a crate motor flashed on it. The stock setup uses a message on the CAN bus network to initiate starting and isn’t easy to duplicate, thus the need for a crate motor flash.

 

[DusterMike72]

Yes a lot of people say fit this or that but when you ask the manufacturer they don't know much about interfacing it with a dodge engine.
Some of the controllers are oversold with blips, laps & cuts i use the Sound German controller easy to set up plug in & you need help call Russell he will help if you have a Challenger box normally it will have cruise, sport & track mode same as an SRT which i find more than enough, If that is a 4 wheel drive box it may have to be reflashed even though it will work in normal drive mode it may not have sport & track mode which adds a next level to the drive

thanx for the info. the pcm i got is from a 2wd car. i know it needs to be reflashed/unlocked.

 

[DusterMike72]

Look at Sublime’s Quick Run kit. It plugs into the missing plug on your PCM and would run the motor (and trans?) and includes the PDC you would need.

http://[URL]https://sublimeparts.co.../products/2015-2021-car-quickrun-hemi-harness

[/URL]

You will need the PCM unlocked and a crate motor flashed on it. The stock setup uses a message on the CAN bus network to initiate starting and isn’t easy to duplicate, thus the need for a crate motor flash.

i did look into the sublime kit but from what i can tell that only does the engine side, i think they have another controller for the trans. i did read somewhere (actually i think on your thread) about the CAN signal stuff. i forgot on these newer cars they integrate can and it can connect to some stupid things in order to make the engine run. i also looked into and emailed that hotwire auto that some people have used on here. if i cant seem to get this thing to work then i guess ill have to get one of those options.

i liked the option of the maxxecu cause it controlled motor and trans but price was getting up there a bit at the moment.

side note: when i pulled the motor there was a little plate in between the motor/ trans. im guessing thats needed.

 

[DionR]

i did look into the sublime kit but from what i can tell that only does the engine side, i think they have another controller for the trans.

I can't say for sure. I know the TCM is inside the trans so it's not like that is missing. If the plug for the 8HP is in the engine harness you have, it might work with the Sublime harness. I usually see the stand alone trans controller used when the stock PCM isn't used, but not always. So it could be that even if the harness works, the crate motor flash removes necessary logic to control the trans.

I will add that my limited experience with a crate PCM read says the 8HP settings are visible, but that doesn't mean the OS has the logic to use them.

Might call/email Blake at Sublime and ask.

side note: when i pulled the motor there was a little plate in between the motor/ trans. im guessing thats needed.

Pretty sure you need that.

 

[DusterMike72]

the harness i got with the motor does have the plug on it for the trans.

just emailed sublime to see what they say. emailed hotwire auto, emailed maxxecu but dont think they understood my questions so im probably goin to call them.

again thanx for the help. people on facebook dont seem to read and are rude as heck.

 

[DusterMike72]

well i ended up just ordering all the maxxecu stuff. ugg.

 

[67Dart273]

Please continue this thread with your progress and photos!!!

 

[DusterMike72]

Please continue this thread with your progress and photos!!!

ill probably just turn this into my build thread and rename it.

 

[DusterMike72]

ok well recently did a few things. mostly still just trying to get all the desert out of this thing. ive vacuumed this thing out soo many times and then once i move something another pound of dirt falls out. anyways with that said i was able to rip the torn apart headliner out and added some sound deadening, pressure washed the engine bay, pretty much removed every harness form inside the car (gonna do a whole new aftermarket setup). when i got the car the drivers door latch was stuck and had to really pry that thing open. was able to loosen everything up on that and reinstall it, seems to be working good now but the lock/ unlock rods are bent and locked up so ill have to figure that out next. removed the a/c box under the dash (gonna try and do one of those 12v a/c setups that ive been seeing all over). while i was messing with the dash i noticed a few things i wanna repair and modify so i decided to pull the dash out. apparently your supposed to remove the windshield but found a video of a guy who just ground down the 5 screws from underneath ( i will be replacing the windshield at some point so ill either put it back correctly or maybe figure out a different way to mount it. i did pick up a harbor freight mig welder today (was on sale for members) for when i do the floor pans and other stuff. just gotta pick up a argon tank and figure out how to set this thing up correctly. i have a fancy miller welder at work but reviews ive seen on this welder seem to be good. once the floor pans are done im probably goin to POR15 the inside of the car well from firewall to trunk and underneath. sorry for the long story im just excited to get stuff done.

 

[DusterMike72]

got my floor pans the other day. not oem style but they'll work. seem a bit thicker than oem metal. picked up my trans, oil pan and dipstick from my buddies shop. got a glovebox from ebay (need to find the striker). wood grain aint staying. fuse block for my maxxecu stuff also showed up. gotta go to dodge to pick up some little parts i ordered. made some quick block off plates for the firewall and a/c ducts. havent tried out the welder yet. maybe this weekend.

going to possibly try and test fit the motor/ trans this weekend. maybe start cutting out the floors.

 

[DionR]

Making progress. Nice!

 

[Ozyduster]

Whats the round hole in the floor? Also remember you will need to weld in chassis connectors and torque boxes to handle the power etc.

 

[DusterMike72]

Whats the round hole in the floor? Also remember you will need to weld in chassis connectors and torque boxes to handle the power etc.

lol those were plates i made to cover the firewall hole and the holes for the a/c ducting on each side. and yes i will be doing some kind of subframe connectors.

 

[DusterMike72]

so swapped oil pans and test fit the motor today. didnt have the trans bolted up. man thats a tight fit. i dunno if its cause im using a 6 banger k member with the schumacher mounts or what but man i dunno what kinda headers are gonna fit besides the log style. i will be goin coil over up front so not gonna have the torsion bars. also i guess i need to do the runner flap thing delete cause that thing was not fitting with the wiper motor. unless theres a different wiper motor people swap to? besides that gotta start cutting up stuff now.

 

[Ozyduster]

Yea she is tight, looks tighter than mine on the passenger side. If you run the tube front end you will piss in headers. I am running all Holley gear, the mounts bring the motor foraward an inch i think so the back clears the fire wall. The pipes snake around the manual sterring very neatly. However i am in and out via the k frame as lot easier and quicker.
Have a look at my thread i have a few pics of the clearance items. You will have issues fitting the alternator unless you notch the frame, however try bending the two folds of the subframe up with a shifter, should just clear the stock alternator. I am using an early jeep one however back set is wrong.
If you boosterless brakes u will have no issues, booster adds another degree of difficulty. Steering column also may touch the valve cover and need a tickle with the grinder especially if a column shift.
I am going to tun after market valve covers that only have the bolt holes where required and look better

 

[DionR]

so swapped oil pans and test fit the motor today. didnt have the trans bolted up. man thats a tight fit. i dunno if its cause im using a 6 banger k member with the schumacher mounts or what but man i dunno what kinda headers are gonna fit besides the log style. i will be goin coil over up front so not gonna have the torsion bars. also i guess i need to do the runner flap thing delete cause that thing was not fitting with the wiper motor. unless theres a different wiper motor people swap to? besides that gotta start cutting up stuff now.


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What mounts are you using? Schumacher doesn’t list a /6 to G3 mount that I can find. Pretty sure they used to, but not anymore?

One of the nice things about the Holley mounts shifting the motor forward (and maybe up some) is the SRV module on the 6.4 intake clears. If you want keep that, you will have to modify the firewall.

Be aware that the low mount AC compressor won’t clear the k-frame with the motor back in “stock” location. There is a kit to notch the k-frame, but I think it is for V8 k-frames only. No idea if you plan to run AC.

Also, you will need a remote oil filter kit.

 

[DusterMike72]

Yea she is tight, looks tighter than mine on the passenger side. If you run the tube front end you will piss in headers. I am running all Holley gear, the mounts bring the motor foraward an inch i think so the back clears the fire wall. The pipes snake around the manual sterring very neatly. However i am in and out via the k frame as lot easier and quicker.
Have a look at my thread i have a few pics of the clearance items. You will have issues fitting the alternator unless you notch the frame, however try bending the two folds of the subframe up with a shifter, should just clear the stock alternator. I am using an early jeep one however back set is wrong.
If you boosterless brakes u will have no issues, booster adds another degree of difficulty. Steering column also may touch the valve cover and need a tickle with the grinder especially if a column shift.
I am going to tun after market valve covers that only have the bolt holes where required and look better

so i found out why its soo tight on the passenger side. apparently the mount or something is too low. the passenger side of the pan was sitting on the k member. so guess im gonna have to do some spacing.
once the motor comes out ill be cutting the frame for the alternator. i already got it marked off.
staying boosterless. ive seen an angled booster bracket once but dont remember who made it or if it was for a specific car. but the valve cover is a little close to the steering column but not hitting it. i am goin to cut off the shifter bracket and whatever other stuff isnt needed unless i just switch to like a ididit column or something.

 

[DusterMike72]

What mounts are you using? Schumacher doesn’t list a /6 to G3 mount that I can find. Pretty sure they used to, but not anymore?

One of the nice things about the Holley mounts shifting the motor forward (and maybe up some) is the SRV module on the 6.4 intake clears. If you want keep that, you will have to modify the firewall.

Be aware that the low mount AC compressor won’t clear the k-frame with the motor back in “stock” location. There is a kit to notch the k-frame, but I think it is for V8 k-frames only. No idea if you plan to run AC.

Also, you will need a remote oil filter kit.

theyre schumacher mounts. you have to select the v8 picture but theres an option for the 6cyl k member.

would have done holley but they dont do 6cyl to gen3. heck they only had 73+ listed for everything if i remember.

going to try one of those 12v electric a/c systems. been watching quite a few videos and stuff on them and they look promising. the compressor wont fit with the motor mounts and the k member mounts.

i am looking to which style oil filter setup i wanna do.

 

[DusterMike72]

today was cutting day. made a bit of progress. cut the tunnel out. cut a little far out on the passenger side but thats ok. cut the drivers rear footwell out and fit new piece. got it fitting pretty good but need to get some extra metal for the piece under the seat there. cut out most the drivers front area but just have to get the piece off of the trans cross member bracket. waiting for my cans of steelit to come in so i can paint the panels before i weld them in. wanna make sure everything is coated. need to get some square tubing to make some subframe connectors and better seat mounts since ill be doing bucket seats.

 

[Ozyduster]

Carefull cutting a lot out all at once remember its a uni body dont want anything moving on you etc. Leat you getting into it!
For bucket seats seat pro make the mounts just need to put the washer things under the floor as the bench seats only have the outer holes mounted on the passenger and drivers side

 

[DionR]

theyre schumacher mounts. you have to select the v8 picture but theres an option for the 6cyl k member.

would have done holley but they dont do 6cyl to gen3. heck they only had 73+ listed for everything if i remember.

going to try one of those 12v electric a/c systems. been watching quite a few videos and stuff on them and they look promising. the compressor wont fit with the motor mounts and the k member mounts.

i am looking to which style oil filter setup i wanna do.

View attachment 1716463408

I guess I was assuming a spool mount k-frame for some reason. I still don't find a /6 to G3 mount for the those, but sure enough the biscuit mount one's are there.

Yep, Holley is '73+ v8 only.

There is a thread discussing the /6 k-frame and a swap. Guy even figured out how to do an AC compressor with those mounts, I think.

Slant 6 K-Frame = LOTS of Clearance

Might even be able to get away without the remote oil filter. Been awhile since I read the thread.

 

[DusterMike72]

Carefull cutting a lot out all at once remember its a uni body dont want anything moving on you etc. Leat you getting into it!
For bucket seats seat pro make the mounts just need to put the washer things under the floor as the bench seats only have the outer holes mounted on the passenger and drivers side

yeah i cutting it out in sections and doing them.

i dont like just a big fender washer under there. probably goin to make a little mount off of the subframe connector since its not too far off of where the inner holes are.

 

[DusterMike72]

I guess I was assuming a spool mount k-frame for some reason. I still don't find a /6 to G3 mount for the those, but sure enough the biscuit mount one's are there.

Yep, Holley is '73+ v8 only.

There is a thread discussing the /6 k-frame and a swap. Guy even figured out how to do an AC compressor with those mounts, I think.

Slant 6 K-Frame = LOTS of Clearance

Might even be able to get away without the remote oil filter. Been awhile since I read the thread.

i went through a bit of that thread. still gotta go look at it some more.