383Scampman
Well-Known Member
Not that you did anything wrong but IMO putting the angle finder on the top of the carb might be more accurate . Just a suggestion .
727 46RH conversion coming
- Thread starter 67dartgtgo
- Start date
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67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
I did that too but didn’t take a picture. Thank you...it looks like I’m about an additional degree lower at the rear of the transmission than from the 727. Assessing options but I’m thinking the mount shims must come out to achieve an appropriate angle. Any input is greatly appreciated.
67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
Here are some better pics of full mock-up. I have a small wood wedge between the case and crossmember to set mount height for the position tac weld.
The clearances look good.
I’m pretty happy with it to this point. There’s no doubt that welding a strap to the floor gives more tunnel clearance but I think there’s a bit more strength by leaving the original member piece sections.
The clearances look good.
I’m pretty happy with it to this point. There’s no doubt that welding a strap to the floor gives more tunnel clearance but I think there’s a bit more strength by leaving the original member piece sections.
67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
Mount all welded. Remocked in position and looks great.
MileHighDart
Well-Known Member
Hmmmm, so you didn't do any trimming to the USCartool crossmember? Did you get any instructions with yours? I think I see the difference between your setup and mine. I bought my crossmember about a year ago, and I don't believe there were any instructions. I figured the holes on the bottom of the trans for the mount we're on the centerline of the transmission, and that when I welded the mount bracket to the crossmember, that it should be centered on the crossmember. This is why I had to trim off some of their crossmember on the driver's side, cause it would not clear the side of the transmission with the mount centered on the crossmember.
It looks like you welded the mount, offset towards the passenger side thus shifting the crossmember over towards the driver's side so it clears the side of the transmission. But aren't u basically forcing the rear of the transmission towards the passenger side by having that mount not centered in the crossmember?
I hope that all makes sense. Was there anything in the instructions telling you to offset the mount? Or did you not have instructions either?
I have noticed on mine, that once I welded in my strap and did the final install of the trans, the driver's side of my trans is almost touching my reinforcement strap. In fact on long right turns in the road, it will start touching and you can hear it rubbing.
I will be under the car again this week and I was going to loosen both motor mounts, and the trans mount, and see if I can move the rear of the trans a bit towards the pass side.
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67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
So my US Cartool crossmember came very straight with no deviations. I remember yours had some issues that you corrected. Fortunately I didn’t have to do that. It didn’t come with directions so I’m relying on what others have done and what adjustments I need to make as they come up at this point.
I did have to do some shaving on the mount At the front drivers side strap to insure clearance. I also shaved a tiny bit more off my transmission case at that spot. I did trim the pad mount too, where the rubber/steel contacted the mount at the top. You can see where the corners are ground at the top to allow no contact here.
The pad mount is definitely offset to the passenger side but the transmission sits centered in tunnel on its own without any persuasion. That’s possibly why they designed the mount with so much room for adjustment I think. I left enough room to shim the pad if needed but I think it will be ok based on the pinion angle I currently have. I also think these cars weren’t all that precise from the assembly line so some differences are likely from car to car.
I ended up leaving the motor mount shims in place for now as the motor position measures right on with these in place. I suspect when the previous owner swapped in the magnum he used the 273 mounts instead of going to 360 mounts so it needed to be shimmed. It’s something I’ll def have to address I think in the near future.
67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
So it’s been a bit since I updated you guys on this so....driveshaft is shortened to 45 1/2 u-joint center to center and installed. Fits great.
I ended up removing the motor mount shims to bring the pinion angle into an acceptable range.
Man that tremec app driveline angle finder is pretty great and simple to use. What a great tool.
I ended up removing the motor mount shims to bring the pinion angle into an acceptable range.
Man that tremec app driveline angle finder is pretty great and simple to use. What a great tool.
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67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
I’m using a transmission cooler from a Ram 1500.
Pulled it out of a hemi truck in nearly perfect condition.
I’d read that the thermal bypasses could be a problem so I’ve crimped the bypass tube in the center to insure positive flow at all times through the cooler passages. Made some quick mounting brackets an good to go. It should have more than enough capacity to handle anything that can be thrown at it.
Pulled it out of a hemi truck in nearly perfect condition.
I’d read that the thermal bypasses could be a problem so I’ve crimped the bypass tube in the center to insure positive flow at all times through the cooler passages. Made some quick mounting brackets an good to go. It should have more than enough capacity to handle anything that can be thrown at it.
67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
Began working on wiring and relay install for operation.
67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
Fabbed up a shift shaft bracket that works great. Modeled it after the stock 727 bracket with a new bushing. I put a twist in it to match the angle of the shaft. I wasn’t sure if the shaft angle was a little wonky but it fits perfectly and shifts great.
I also wired up the neutral safety switch using just the center pole as required for 1967.
I also wired up the neutral safety switch using just the center pole as required for 1967.
67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
Left to do...
Complete wiring circuit.
Mount relay box. Still looking to find a suitably good spot. Thinking about driver side interior under vent box above high/low beam foot switch. I think there’s enough room there.
Fab relay box mounting bracket.
Install cooler lines.
Install exhaust.
Install speedo cable.
Fill with fluid and fire her up.
Complete wiring circuit.
Mount relay box. Still looking to find a suitably good spot. Thinking about driver side interior under vent box above high/low beam foot switch. I think there’s enough room there.
Fab relay box mounting bracket.
Install cooler lines.
Install exhaust.
Install speedo cable.
Fill with fluid and fire her up.
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MileHighDart
Well-Known Member
Looking good man.
MileHighDart
Well-Known Member
I did end up adjusting mine by loosening the trans mount bolts and the motor mounts. Used a short pry bar, and it was quite easy to move the back end of the trans towards the pass side a little and re tighten everything.
Now I have what looks like about the same clearance on the driver's side that you have. A good quarter inch between the side of the trans and my reinforcement hoop.
Now I have what looks like about the same clearance on the driver's side that you have. A good quarter inch between the side of the trans and my reinforcement hoop.
67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
Excellent. I hope that takes care of the rub you were having.
Looks like the 518 went in with about the same fabrication as a 500. Would you agree with this? I had a line on a rebuilt A500.....Turns out it is an A518. Should I still make the buy? Didn't want to get into crazy floor mods as I have a floor shift/console set up that I want to retain.
67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
I'm pretty sure the A500 and A518 have the very same overdrive unit. The floor massage and crossmember fabrication are done because of this as it has high spots at the casing mounting flange resulting in impacts in those areas.
It takes some work and I found it a little overwhelming at times but relied on threads and info from guys here who've made the swap. Those guys have been a huuuge inspiration to me even when I was questioning myself and my abilities.
If I were thinking about doing it again....I'd do it, however I still have some things left to do before test drive and shakedown. I'm not worried.
Thanks 67dartgtgo. I went ahead and purchased the 518. Not afraid of minor massaging, I just wanted to avoid major surgery on the floor pan. The crossmember looks straight forward.
67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
I wired up my control box following this scheme.
I got this from Cuda-challenger.com based on a swap done there.
I got this from Cuda-challenger.com based on a swap done there.
67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
This is how it’ll work:
Also from cuda-challenger.com member Katfish.
Great info for sure.
Also from cuda-challenger.com member Katfish.
Great info for sure.
Thanks for all of the info in one place, and many thanks to the original poster Katfish of Cuda-Challenger.com.
67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
This is how I piped my pressure switch to the governor pressure port using brass fittings.
67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
When I was done with the trans install I installed my shortened driveshaft, which I measured for and had shortened after the transmission and mount was all installed, then used that cool tremec tool box app driveline angle finder to confirm it was all good.
https://www.tremec.com/menu/tremec-toolbox-app/
Haven't finished my punchlist to drive yet but working on it.
https://www.tremec.com/menu/tremec-toolbox-app/
Haven't finished my punchlist to drive yet but working on it.
67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
Mounted my power switch in my console ash tray, right next to my line lock switch. You’d never even know it was there with the door closed.
67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
Pressure switch is wired. You def need to have one side to ground. PTC shows this switch as being self grounding but it’s definitely not the case. Grounding it allows the circuit to be completed when the switch closes caused by governor pressure.
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