727 Disassembly and Advice

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Use a 4 planet that one is toast ,i would also replace that front drum bush. The later thrust washers had those ears mickey mouse washer, just scotch rite the rear drum to clean off the loose rust it is on non wear area ,front drum clutch pack can have a lot of play rear is about 35 thou when assembled check the end float on the input shaft
 
Put it back together the way you took it apart... clean... with new seals and new clutches and rings and don't spend money on a bunch of c*** you don't need...
Don't order parts till you have the bad parts in your hands and can compare them...
 
Austin Spencer said:
Well I've run into another issue here.
View attachment 1716368759View attachment 1716368760
The forward Planet gear assembly housing is cracked pretty bad, as well as one gear having some bad wear on it. Looks like I'll be getting a new one.

There's currently 2 on ebay, a 3 pinion for $65, and a 4 pinion for $125. If I go to 4 pinion, it doesn't matter that the rear planet set is still 3 pinion right? I know the 4 is stronger than 3 so I don't mind going for it as long as I only need to get the one. Also, are there any differences in the years for the planet gears? Do I need to get a specific year range?

Also another thing I saw on the Rear Planet, one of the pins that holds the gear in place was loose, easily slid out of its bore. Are these just put in and then the end hammered to shrink the bore a bit on the end?
Click to expand...
Hell's bells?I can't even believe you paid four hundred dollars for this used transmission... Really? I don't like to pay over a hundred and fifty bucks.For an unknown used seven twenty seven or 904...
I would say bad luck of the draw.Look for one under two hundred dollars and start over again... you don't want to go down an Avenue of tons of expensive parts... that would be throwing good money after bad...
 
Well unfortunately I'm not up in Oregon, and down here in LA prices are a lot higher. Went through at least a dozen shops, junkyards, rebuilders, and $450 was the average, without a TC. $1800 for a rebuilt, minimum. There's practically nothing on craigslist within 200 miles that would have been another option. There was someone here with a few 904s but I need a 727 for my Gearvendors unit to bolt up to.

Regardless of price, I've got this unit and I'll make it work. Just takes some time and effort.
 
Do you need a trans "right now"?
Keep watching, I've found most of my stuff when wasn't actually looking for it. Is this a daily driver where you're stranded , til it runs?
I wish I wasn't 2/3 of a country away from Oregon. I'd be over there after those 2 short tails.
Where did you get that core? A tranny shop?
 

volaredon said:
Do you need a trans "right now"?
Keep watching, I've found most of my stuff when wasn't actually looking for it. Is this a daily driver where you're stranded , til it runs?
I wish I wasn't 2/3 of a country away from Oregon. I'd be over there after those 2 short tails.
Where did you get that core? A tranny shop?
Click to expand...
This is hopefully going to be somewhat of a daily driver, at least a backup for sure. I was in a hurry to get it because I know if I stop the ball rolling I end up slacking and not getting it going again. That and I've got more free time now and that'll be changing in a few months.

The core was from a shop that was closing down, and he sold it to me as well as 2 Torque Converters, one I believe is stock and one is custom.

That deal for the short tails is real solid, wish that was in my area. I waited about a month before getting this one, and in that time this was the one that had the most promise. Out here in LA every shop seems to store their stuff outside under their rain gutter, and then still want $450 for a core. Took another look on craigslist and there's nothing under $350 within 400 miles of me.

As I mentioned, it's already bought and disassembled, so I'm past the point of worrying about price. I'm looking at maybe another $300 between new gaskets, clutches, bands, and that planetary gear. That would all be coming from a shop up in Oregon, except that planetary gear set.
 
Is it recommended to replace the over-running clutch on every Mopar transmission? Isn't that the one that likes to 'splode when you come out of a burnout in 2nd gear?

RustyRatRod said:
A bunch. The books by Tom Hand are also excellent. I have all three.
Click to expand...

Do tell. I only have the one.
 
jos51700 said:
Is it recommended to replace the over-running clutch on every Mopar transmission? Isn't that the one that likes to 'splode when you come out of a burnout in 2nd gear?



Do tell. I only have the one.
Click to expand...
Sorry. I should have worded that better. I meant that I had Tom Hands book, plus the other two. The ATSG and Munroe's book.
 
Austin Spencer said:
This is hopefully going to be somewhat of a daily driver, at least a backup for sure. I was in a hurry to get it because I know if I stop the ball rolling I end up slacking and not getting it going again. That and I've got more free time now and that'll be changing in a few months.

The core was from a shop that was closing down, and he sold it to me as well as 2 Torque Converters, one I believe is stock and one is custom.

That deal for the short tails is real solid, wish that was in my area. I waited about a month before getting this one, and in that time this was the one that had the most promise. Out here in LA every shop seems to store their stuff outside under their rain gutter, and then still want $450 for a core. Took another look on craigslist and there's nothing under $350 within 400 miles of me.

As I mentioned, it's already bought and disassembled, so I'm past the point of worrying about price. I'm looking at maybe another $300 between new gaskets, clutches, bands, and that planetary gear. That would all be coming from a shop up in Oregon, except that planetary gear set.
Click to expand...
Price sound's about right if you are driving street & the sprag is still tight in the casing & in good condition you should be ok
 
jos51700 said:
Is it recommended to replace the over-running clutch on every Mopar transmission? Isn't that the one that likes to 'splode when you come out of a burnout in 2nd gear?
Click to expand...
The overrunning clutch does not explode, an OEM high gear drum can explode out of a 727 if the overrunning clutch fails. The overrunning clutch can only be damaged in first gear.

It is recommended to replace the overrunning clutch springs and rollers on a rebuild.
 
Funny thing I met a member one time as he was coming up to Oregon to buy several big block. Course and what he did was he gave 12 a guy to rebuild 14 him and another one he sold to pay for the trip...
Still good friends to this day. And when I was down near la visiting my dad, I jumped on my dad's motorcycle and went over and visited him...
When I took my wife's kia down to my dad's funeral last summer, it was only like two hundred bucks.Round trip for gas...
Same thing as the other guy. I just seem to find this stuff when I'm not looking for it like right now. The pick and pull has engines on sale for 250 and transmissions. For a hundred and fifty I would love to go grab on extra magnum motor...
 
VOETOM said:
Austin, it may not be an issue but you might try to determine why your front clutch retainer is pre-1971 yet I suspect, based on the three tab thrust washer, the input shaft and the matching reaction shaft support are mid 70s and later. Some will interchange. I think it should have the wide bearing surface on the reaction shaft support to enable you to use the 1971 and later wide bushing retainer. Maybe though, someone just installed the narrow bushing for some reason? It had to have been working but it appears to have lots of different parts in it. Therefore, it would be good to figure out what year the output shaft is as the splines will be different on the front planet carrier that slides on it.
Click to expand...
Direct Drum 2.jpg
Pump Inside.jpg


Here's the Direct Drum and Pump. I'll get a few more pictures here in a bit once I can get back to the garage.
 
VOETOM said:
So they are running a pre 71 retainer in a post 71 case with the later pump. Clearly it works but for longevity, be nice to find the right 71 and later 4 friction retainer. Should be able to selll that one for enough to buy the later one., if you are worried about it.
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What are the differences between the pre-71 and post-71 retainers? I'll look into that and see what my options are.
 
Wide bushing is 71 later, narrow are those before. Chrysler made sweeping updates in 71 to fix a lot of older issues in TFs. The wide bushing retainer with slots in the retainer instead of holes was one change
 
VOETOM said:
Wide bushing is 71 later, narrow are those before. Chrysler made sweeping updates in 71 to fix a lot of older issues in TFs. The wide bushing retainer with slots in the retainer instead of holes was one change
Click to expand...
I just did a search and from this thread here it looks like I've got a post 71 retainer, but with a pre 71 bushing in it?

www.forabodiesonly.com

[Found!] - 727 4 CLUTCH DIRECT DRUM

Hi Folks Looking for a 4 clutch direct drum (71 or newer) for my 1971 727. Please PM. Thanks
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com

If this is to be trusted it mentions that the post 71 4 friction disk drum has the groove higher up in the drum, whereas the pre 71 3 friction disk is deeper in the drum. Is that accurate or is this still a pre-71 retainer?

Edit: Nevermind, I can just barely see what you mean with the slots from a picture in that retainer, the slots in the bore as opposed to holes. I'll look into finding the correct retainer.
 
Looks like someone has put a thin bushing into a wide drum the circlip slot is cut high so it can take the extra thin clutches & steels
The pump support looks like a wide unit so i would change the drum bearing to suit
 
AUSA66 said:
Looks like someone has put a thin bushing into a wide drum the circlip slot is cut high so it can take the extra clutches & steels but it has been dropped & a piece of cast smashed out on the outher surface ,i would not use that drum looks like that trans has been put together with dodgy let over parts
Click to expand...
I'm not seeing where the part of the casting is smashed out, perhaps its just from the rag it's sitting on folding over the edge?

Here's a picture of the whole front of it.

Direct Drum 2.jpg
 
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