727 TF transmission line fittings

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shutudown4

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Does anyone know if the flared fittings on the transmission end of the lines are single or double flared ? The motor absolutely cannot get dropped in until the lines r installed due to the fact I’m running TTI big block headers in an A body
If there’s ANY issue w linkage, lines etc in that area after the motor is in then the motor has to b pulled.
Just need to buy the right tools
Shutudown4
 
shutudown4 said:
Does anyone know if the flared fittings on the transmission end of the lines are single or double flared ? The motor absolutely cannot get dropped in until the lines r installed due to the fact I’m running TTI big block headers in an A body
If there’s ANY issue w linkage, lines etc in that area after the motor is in then the motor has to b pulled.
Just need to buy the right tools
Shutudown4
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Double flare to be safe. The pressures are low so a single flare should work fine.
 
If the lines were steel, it's a "very" good chance they were double flared.
 
Steel lines just about MUST be double flared, as they will split eventually, if not.
 
Double flare has much more durability over time, and resistance to vibration. If you want a leak free connection, use a double flare.
 
Steel lines - prebent or you bend work fine
Steel braided lines are easier to move where you want them to move as long as you make them the length that reaches.
 
Back in the day, I used high pressure hydraulic lines and fittings. It helped that my dad was a heavy equipment mechanic :)
 
shutudown4 said:
Anyone have any thoughts about using braided lines over factory steel?
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As long as you feel good about your ability to make steel braided ends and the transmission cooler can be fitted with AN ends then IMO that is a direction to go. Plus they can be added AFTER the engine/transmission are in place.
 
shutudown4 said:
Anyone have any thoughts about using braided lines over factory steel?
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Run the steel lines up the drivers side frame rail between the steering box and the frame rail. Use bulkhead fittings at the firewall to connect them and then run steel lines over to a stacked plate transmission cooler with AN fittings. Use steel braided lines from the transmission over to the lines on the frame rail. I've done that to the last 2 cars I've built and it works slicker'n cat poop on linoleum! Keeps them away from the headers, steering, starter....everything. Use those rubber insulted clamps to hold them to the frame rail in a few places.
 
JDMopar said:
Run the steel lines up the drivers side frame rail between the steering box and the frame rail. Use bulkhead fittings at the firewall to connect them and then run steel lines over to a stacked plate transmission cooler with AN fittings. Use steel braided lines from the transmission over to the lines on the frame rail. I've done that to the last 2 cars I've built and it works slicker'n cat poop on linoleum! Keeps them away from the headers, steering, starter....everything. Use those rubber insulted clamps to hold them to the frame rail in a few places.
Click to expand...
 
Do u have pics of your exact placement
Of the transmission lines?
I followed what the shop manual showed
I will check out the info u sent me
Ty
Shutudown4
 
The only pics I had were on my old laptop that crashed and was unrecoverable. The steel lines up the frame rail just followed the bends of the frame rail, from right in front of the transmission/torsion bar crossmember, all the way to the radiator support right under the battery tray. I used the rubber insulated clamps, turned the screw holes to the middle and used one screw to hold both clamps at each set I installed, maybe 4 sets total. On the end by the transmission, I used AN connectors to connect the steel braided lines from the transmission to the steel lines. The steel braided lines ran up close to the bottom side of the floor pan and were supported with clamps. There was a mile of clearance between the lines and top of the headers. At the other end, under the battery tray, the steel lines hooked to AN bulkhead connectors with a female fitting. A bulkhead connector has AN fittings on each end. They have a large nut made onto them near the middle with threads on one side of that nut. You bore a hole thru the radiator support just large enough for the threaded end to go thru/ Then you put a washer and nut on it and tighten it up so that fitting is tight to the radiator support. Then just bend the lines in front of the radiator support to go to the transmission cooler AN fittings. Going back to the steel braided hoses on the trans end, for clarification......the reason I ran those was because my car was a street car with rubber motor and transmission mounts. Braided lines will flex when the motor and trans wiggle, and won't crack or come loose. I would think if you had a race car with solid mounts, you could get away with steel lines all the way to the trans fittings. Good grief, this got long. I think AJ has rubbed off on me!!!

:rofl:
 
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