73 Duster - how to removal rear windshield = want to reuse gasket and glass

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Joe Mc

No Car Like A MoPar!
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Trim is off and the round lock bead is out. I don’t want to cut the gasket and/or break the glass, need to remove to perform repairs to trunk gutter and make it easier to reach top inner of quarter panel. Car is gutted, no trunk lid, doors, fenders, suspension, or other glass, it is presently a shell in process.

Help
 
If it's the original gasket it will probably break or crack when you try to remove it. If it's a newer gasket (less than 5 years old) then it should be possible but you'll have to be very careful. There's always a chance of cracking the glass if you don't cut the gasket...maybe someone has a secret method of getting the gasket to break loose from the glass and sheet metal. I would start by working the rubber loose from the metal using silicone spray to make it easier to slide a plastic knife/tool in between, then do the same to separate the glass from the rubber. If the rubber is old and starts to crack you would be better off cutting the gasket to make sure you save the glass.
I'm sure other members have some ideas!!
treblig
 
If nobody added any nasty sealers to it you should be able to get it out. run a blade on the surface of the glass to be sure rubber is free. push top out from inside starting in a corner and see it separates. But, unless it is still VERY pliable, I would not count on getting it back in.
 
Okay I'll play it back to you and weight it out loud for you. It's not impossible, it's not probable. If the glass is great and there's no need at all to replace the glass itself I would likely just cut the gasket and save the glass. If you try for it and you cracked the glass you'll be paying for both guaranteed. I'll be darned if I'll buy a brand new window and put it in an old gasket.
I'm replacing my windshield at the end of the week and I know the gasket for that is like 75 to $100. I can't imagine the rear being more than that?
 
Also now that I just caught up and reread that it's completely gutted and basically the only thing left in the car? LOL cut that baby out of there! You'll have a million nightmares putting that back together before you ever get back to that seal! LOL
 
I've done it a few times. Once went to a parts yard to collect reveal moldings and gaskets from a 69 Notch back. Yard owner said, " Break that rear glass and you bought it. Additional 40 bucks." It wasn't easy.
The guys in the clean up shop had a 5 gallon bucket of silicone/armoral like stuff that they used on tires, interior, etc... so I had a about a quart of that for soften and lubricate in a pump spray bottle, and a helper. By the time the glass was out our brown cloth gloves were soaked. Cleaning a used gasket for reinstall is a chore too. Bottom line,
Big mess to clean off the car and clean that used gasket versus buy a new gasket.
 
One or the other, not both. As mentioned the gaskets are easily sourced.
 
We just removed both front and back glass out of my 69 valiant 4dr. Saved both glass and gaskets.. I have to give oldmanmopar ( Steve ) all the credit. He is the man when it comes to these old cars.. Once the trim is off and lock strip undone he used a paint stirrer that was round on one corner. And sanded down both sides of the rounded corner like a wedge. With the paint stick and dish detergent on stick run it between the gasket and the glass on both sides. Also used wd-40 on the inside for lube. Once that is done one guy pushes on one upper corner while the other is using paint stick. Once you get a corner out work it all the way across the top edge and it comes right out. Very messy but it gets it done.
 
We just removed both front and back glass out of my 69 valiant 4dr. Saved both glass and gaskets.. I have to give oldmanmopar ( Steve ) all the credit. He is the man when it comes to these old cars.. Once the trim is off and lock strip undone he used a paint stirrer that was round on one corner. And sanded down both sides of the rounded corner like a wedge. With the paint stick and dish detergent on stick run it between the gasket and the glass on both sides. Also used wd-40 on the inside for lube. Once that is done one guy pushes on one upper corner while the other is using paint stick. Once you get a corner out work it all the way across the top edge and it comes right out. Very messy but it gets it done.

I went to a glass store and they gave me a hand full of plastic sticks that work perfect.

dish soap and water. run that stick under ever surface and lip spraying water n soap

be thorough work slow and you can do it.

I reused both my gaskets and have perfect seals
 
Thanks guys, lots of good ideas to kick around. I’ll give it a go and if the gasket is too brittle I’ll break out the “lazer blade”.
 
It the time I pulled the glass in my Barracuda (1990) there were no replacements for the 67 fastback front or rear. At the time my plan was to stick to the 67 design so I had to save both. Never in my life have I pulled glass on a car but assumed it could be done so I went at it.

First I removed what was left of the lock strip then I used a putty knife and worked it along the glass on both sides to I made it all the way around. I then worked a piece of wire through and worked it all the way around. Even though the sealant kept sticking I felt I could work it out. I was working on the windshield as I planned to replace the glass. I used a few different tools and a stack of ice cream sticks, I started at an upper corner and pried the rubber up and worked some tools in as far as I could go, with my other hand I applied pressure to the inside of the glass near the upper corner. Steady pressure till I could see the glass move out, once I could tuck some tool in From the back side) to keep it from sucking back I did. At first it was only a 1/4" up for the first 6" or so but once I started along the top now pressing about 6" from the corner I could see the corner clear the rubber, at that point I knew I had it. At that point I was able to just work my way across the top and then the sides.

The rear was basically the same, started in one of the upper corners and worked my way across the top. Once the top was clear the sides were already coming out so it didn't take much to get it out. I think the rear was easier maybe because I knew what to expect.

This was before the internet so I was on my own, sometimes you just have to tackle a project and figure it out, it ain't rocket science.


Alan
 
While you guys/gals have the front glass out you might as well polish it to make it like new again. You would be very surprised how many little chips, dings, imperfections, micro-scratches are in the front glass until you start polishing it. If you polish one spot on the glass you'll notice that the rest of the glass looks like crap!!! I ordered this stuff from China, it took a while to get here but it will do 3 or 4 windshields!!

8PCS Glass Scrach Remover With 8 OZ Cerium Oxide Powder Polishing Kit 3'' Wheel 965923816216 | eBay

You can get the same stuff in the US for 2/3 times the price!! I put the windshield on a cheapy set of HF fender stands and had a good time in the shade!!! I really didn't think the stuff would work that good but it was fantastic!!!!

treblig
 
So I’m pecking away at it. Thus far I’ve sprayed WD-40 around the outside edges where the glass meets the seal and let it sit for a day or so. Using a 2” plastic putty knife I gently worked the rubber away from the glass about 1/4” in from the edge all the way around. Holding this 1/4” up a bit with the putty knife I shot some WD in all the way around and let it sit for another day. Repeated the above and began to work the lip until the edge of the glass was obviously reached. Lifting the edge a bit I applied more WD and as I did I could see the WD was working into the inner part of the seal along the glass as the seal I could see thru the glass was initially a dull dark color now began to turn a wet black = the WD had worked thru to the inner part of the seal. Next step will be moving body tools from the back seat area and then progress around the inside of the seal to the body lip. So far so good, more to come...
 
So I’m pecking away at it. Thus far I’ve sprayed WD-40 around the outside edges where the glass meets the seal and let it sit for a day or so. Using a 2” plastic putty knife I gently worked the rubber away from the glass about 1/4” in from the edge all the way around. Holding this 1/4” up a bit with the putty knife I shot some WD in all the way around and let it sit for another day. Repeated the above and began to work the lip until the edge of the glass was obviously reached. Lifting the edge a bit I applied more WD and as I did I could see the WD was working into the inner part of the seal along the glass as the seal I could see thru the glass was initially a dull dark color now began to turn a wet black = the WD had worked thru to the inner part of the seal. Next step will be moving body tools from the back seat area and then progress around the inside of the seal to the body lip. So far so good, more to come...
Sounds like you have it sorted. It makes a heck of a mess. I managed to get both front and rear glass out safely in one night with a helper.
 
Rustyswinger, I like that handle:lol:. Sort of like my car “Rusty Dusty”.
Thing I have going for me on this car. Other than; buying it in like 78, selling it to a buddy in 85, buying it back in 95 is, its been garaged since 83-ish. Too bad the floors are toast, at least I was able to purchase one of the first AMD “test fitted and ready to sell” full floor pans = toe board to rear seat riser & rail to rail. That’s next on the agenda after the left “Franken-quarter” is finish bumped-out and finish filler is applied. Maybe I’ll get the rear glass out this weekend or early next week.
 
Rustyswinger, I like that handle:lol:. Sort of like my car “Rusty Dusty”.
Thing I have going for me on this car. Other than; buying it in like 78, selling it to a buddy in 85, buying it back in 95 is, its been garaged since 83-ish. Too bad the floors are toast, at least I was able to purchase one of the first AMD “test fitted and ready to sell” full floor pans = toe board to rear seat riser & rail to rail. That’s next on the agenda after the left “Franken-quarter” is finish bumped-out and finish filler is applied. Maybe I’ll get the rear glass out this weekend or early next week.
My swinger was like that too. I put an awful lot of new steel into that car! Trunk, extenders, quarters, big sections of floor pans and rocker panels, found decent fenders......its all coming together. stick with It!
 
Rustyswinger, I like that handle:lol:. Sort of like my car “Rusty Dusty”.
Thing I have going for me on this car. Other than; buying it in like 78, selling it to a buddy in 85, buying it back in 95 is, its been garaged since 83-ish. Too bad the floors are toast, at least I was able to purchase one of the first AMD “test fitted and ready to sell” full floor pans = toe board to rear seat riser & rail to rail. That’s next on the agenda after the left “Franken-quarter” is finish bumped-out and finish filler is applied. Maybe I’ll get the rear glass out this weekend or early next week.
Cool history on your Duster too. I wish I still had my 74duster that Dad and I built back in 88
 
Cool history on your Duster too. I wish I still had my 74duster that Dad and I built back in 88
Thanks rusty, the car is not worth that much monetarily but sentimentally to me it’s priceless and if I don’t keep it forever I’ll give it to the son of my friend who died before his son was born, I bought the car from his wife within days of his death circa 78 or 79. Keeper
 
Wow! just realized its been almost 2 years since I asked my question (BTW all replies appreciated) and I have still not done anything to the car. Maybe this coming (2020) year???
 
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