I have a 73 duster 340 when you turn the key, it clicks like the battery is dead . when i jump the soliniod it turns over/starts fine. sometimes the key/ign works after ijump it.i replaced relay ,checked wirers conections from relay to bulkhead no brakes or broken wirers i get 11.59 volts to yellow wire on relay please help
73 duster starting problems
- Thread starter pat d
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Is the starter cable the original one with the rubber covered molded end? The cable going from the starter relay to the solenoid sounds like the problem.
To check that wire, first jumper the starter solenoid and confirm it cranks. Then jumper the two largest (bare) connections on the starter relay. If it won't crank, that wire from the relay to the solenoid is the problem.
If that does not work, post back and try to clarify what you've done and what it does/ does not do
To check that wire, first jumper the starter solenoid and confirm it cranks. Then jumper the two largest (bare) connections on the starter relay. If it won't crank, that wire from the relay to the solenoid is the problem.
If that does not work, post back and try to clarify what you've done and what it does/ does not do
Spell check is your friend!
From the 76 Electrical Service Manual:
Starter Solenoid Test;
Connect a heavy jumper wire on the starter relay between the battery and solenoid terminals. If the engine cranks the starter solenoid is good. Proceed to the starter relay test.
If the engine does not crank or the solenoid chatters check the wiring and connectors for loose or corroded connections, particularly at the starter terminals. Repeat test and if the engine still fails to crank properly the trouble is within the starter and it must be removed for repairs.
From the 76 Electrical Service Manual:
Starter Solenoid Test;
Connect a heavy jumper wire on the starter relay between the battery and solenoid terminals. If the engine cranks the starter solenoid is good. Proceed to the starter relay test.
If the engine does not crank or the solenoid chatters check the wiring and connectors for loose or corroded connections, particularly at the starter terminals. Repeat test and if the engine still fails to crank properly the trouble is within the starter and it must be removed for repairs.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
OK, we now need to determine if it's the relay, wiring, or other components.
This an auto? If so, pull the neutral safety switch wire off the relay and ground the exposed terminal. See if the problem goes away, but be CAREFUL because obviously you now have no neutral safety protection.
If that test does not resolve the problem concentrate on the ign. key side of the relay circuit
If you can, "rig" a test lamp on the ign start feed going to the relay. This is the push-on terminal opposite the neutral safety switch connection. Obviously, if the lamp lights and the car does not crank, then it's still in the relay--even if you hear it click, or the wire to the starter
Do you think the starter relay clicks EVERY time you twist the key, whether it cranks or not?
NEW WIRE does NOT MEAN GOOD wire.
i replaced starter relay,neutral safety switch,6months ago replaced starter. i tried another ignition switch, same thing starter clicks like the battery dead/weak. battery has12v when i jump relay car starts up fine i checked yellow wire off relay and when i turn key/ign. i get 11.5v what to do?
Are you jumping the battery post on the relay to the start signal post where the yellow wire goes ? That should get same results. Jumping over the relay ( from batt post to batt post ) and it starts suggests bad relay.
11 volts supplied by the yellow wire should be sufficient to close the relay providing the ground supplied by the brown wire from neutral safety switch is sufficient. You could use an ohm meter to check the brown wires continuity. Nearly zero ohms resistance is the goal. Hope this helps.
11 volts supplied by the yellow wire should be sufficient to close the relay providing the ground supplied by the brown wire from neutral safety switch is sufficient. You could use an ohm meter to check the brown wires continuity. Nearly zero ohms resistance is the goal. Hope this helps.
Robbie2734
Lambcharger
The starter relay has to have a good ground to work. Make sure your mounting screw is snug and you have a good ground.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
That's right, and "new" relay does NOT mean "good" relay.
You need a test light/ meter, which I guess you have.
recheck that "when it clicks" you get battery voltage at the push on connector
Without letting up on the "key twist" move the meter to the post going to the starter solenoid
If you don't have voltage there, it's the relay.
If you DO have voltage there, it's the wire to the solenoid or the solenoid/ starter
Move the meter probe to the starter solenoid. If you have battery at the small post, "key twisted" then it's in the starter/ solenoid OR the "big" cable.
Don't be afraid to shake/ twist/ pull/ rattle the wiring.
the car used to be auto on the column i converted to floor shift[auto] put in steering column from a floor shift car plugged in harness wires looked the same. also after i jump relay and drive the car 5-10 min and turn it off then start it up with the key it works. if i jump the relay the starter works fine,also i put in a jumper wire for the seat belts it has a fasten seatbelt sign/light in dash,don't know if this helps thanks.
actually the starter relay is one of the few electrical pieces on the car that doesn'r require chassis ground. It only needs a positive and ground on the signal posts to energize the coil.
I'm leaning toward replace the starter. When everything except the starter is working properly the bendix drive solenoid will thunk ( engage ) but not run the starter motor. That doesn't explain why it works when you jump over the relay except that throws a little more current at it.
I'm leaning toward replace the starter. When everything except the starter is working properly the bendix drive solenoid will thunk ( engage ) but not run the starter motor. That doesn't explain why it works when you jump over the relay except that throws a little more current at it.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
!!! DOH !!! You caught me. Forgot this was up into the "clutch safety switch" era-----70/ earlier stick relays ARE grounded.
Here's another thing about starters----many guys don't realize that Chrysler/ GM starters--non mini that is---have TWO windings in the solenoid, a pull in winding and a hold in winding.
The pull in winding is in SERIES with the starter. This means that if the starter is getting a little "flakey" like maybe gummed up brushes, etc, the pull in winding may not always get enough juice, and the solenoid won't always pull in
valiant100
valiant100
Have someone under car when you attempt to start it and it does not go. The starter is probably engaging the flywheel but not turning it like one of the last posts said. That was happening to my 68 plym with a brand new reman starter from Auto zone. I was underneath the car and was watching the starter engaging and getting stuck on. It would not retract the shaft/teeth from the flywheel. Once this happens you need to pull it back with a screwdriver then thump it with a hammer a few times then it might engage and spin. Picked up a used mini starter from a 95 ram 318(5.2) and no problems anymore.
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