73 up disc brake conversion. Is my caliper going to work when revesered to oposite sides?

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D.Dog

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Can not get get solid pedal when bleeding with helper. 3 - 4 pumps then pedal is solid.
Push down good pedal. Let up pedal goes back to floor. Can find any leaks or air. We have
done this 3 times. Everything is new. 15/16 master, lines calipers,pads slider system
10" rear brakes,new shoes, parts, wheel cylinders,rear shoes are tightened to new drums.
I think may have to change to different brake calipers for diplomat or Aspen 80s. What
is your wisdom? I have looked at this site for a week. Either that or I need another Master cyl.
Sorry! Wrong photo.
View attachment 1715518750

DSCF0745 front left caliper 5x4.jpg


DSCF0745 front left caliper 5x4.jpg
 
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calipers are reversed.
left on right...right on left.
the bleeder needs to be "up" in order for it to work.
 
Yes they will, I have them on the back side of my 69
 
Your attachment wouldn't open for me, so I'm not sure what you wanted to show. Did you also switch the calipers to the opposite side? If not, you may have them mounted upside down. Make sure the calipers are mounted on the side of the car that positions the bleeder at the top of the caliper, otherwise it's next to impossible to get them bled correctly.
 
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Calipers must be placed so bleeder is at the highest point. Your picture angles are a little confusing. Once the bleeders are at the top you should find the OEM fluid lines are too short.
 
i agree. i can see the pic and that bleeder needs to be up top not at the bottom like you have it. easy fix. you may need differen't brake hoses then you currently have. hard to tell in that pic.
 
Calipers must be placed so bleeder is at the highest point. Your picture angles are a little confusing. Once the bleeders are at the top you should find the OEM fluid lines are too short.
And you will need to use '69 Camaro hoses (longer).
 
There are longer Chrysler hoses, like F-body, if you don't want Chevy parts on your mopar. And IF you want to leave everything as is here is what some do.... Simply flip the calipers over so the bleeder is highest. Open bleeders and allow to chicken or free bleed remaining air out. Remount calipers and carry on.
 
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One little trick- unbolt caliper and block piston from moving. Orient bleeder to the top and now pressure bleed.
 
Guys! another photo! I am reason from coments
that reverse caliper so its on top then bleed? Get
camero hoses from Dr. diff and should fix problem! Please comment! Your help is appreciated. D.Dog!
DSCF0745 front left caliper 5x4.jpg
 
There are longer Chrysler hoses, like F-body, if you don't want Chevy parts on your mopar. And IF you want to leave everything as is here is what some do.... Simply flip the calipers over so the bleeder is highest. Open bleeders and allow to chicken or free bleed remaining air out. Remount calipers and carry on.

"Chevy parts". So hilarious. It's a rubber hose with connectors that attach perfectly well to the stock Mopar parts, just a longer hose section. Literally nothing makes it a "Chevy" part or a "Chrysler" part. It's just a hose. And you already need to specify a different car if you're walking into a parts store, so which one is irrelevant.

Guys! another photo! I am reason from coments
that reverse caliper so its on top then bleed? Get
camero hoses from Dr. diff and should fix problem! Please comment! Your help is appreciated. D.Dog!View attachment 1715518869

Yes, switch the calipers from side to side. That will put the bleeder on top, so you can get that air bubble sitting in the calipers out. Then get '69 Camaro disk brake hoses so they're long enough for the proper routing. DoctorDiff has them if you want stainless braided, but the plain old parts store should have the regular rubber hoses too. They're just '69 Camaro disk brake hoses (don't get the drum brake ones).
 
I do believe the hoses are right left also... and u don't need Camaro anything!! All Mopar babe.
 
I do believe the hoses are right left also... and u don't need Camaro anything!! All Mopar babe.

The mopar hoses are too short if you mount the calipers to the rear. If you fully extend or compress the suspension with the wheels turned you'll separate the hose from the ends.

And it's just a hose with SAE ends, it doesn't know what car it's on.
 
If you have 73 an up A-body knuckles u can swap them to ether side, left to right to left. The calipers will be to the front and the hose will not be to short. All A-bodys had the calipers to the front. Aspen Volare had there calipers to the rear. Easy way to know if it will work, the hard brake line, if its in front of your upper ball joint the caliper goes to the front. If the hard brake line is behind the ball joint the caliper goes to the rear. From the photo it looks like the hard line is behind the ball joint. That's the passenger-side caliper, but its on the driver-side. Did those brake's come off a F-body or any other non A-body?
 
I did put Dippy Aspen Volare calipers on my 75 Scamp for years, an they work great. I never measured the piston diameter. The F-J-M-Body pistons did look bigger. Remember if u get non A-body calipers.. Passenger goes on Driver-side. an vise-versa.
If you want to use the BIG 12 inch rotors from like a Fury, Monoco or Charger just get the caliper brackets an rotors from those cars. Its all bolt-on. [note] must be the slider type brackets.
 
The FMJ calipers have a 2.75 bore, the A body ones have a 2.6 bore EXCEPT for some 1976 versions that also had a 2.75 bore.
 
If you have 73 an up A-body knuckles u can swap them to ether side, left to right to left. The calipers will be to the front and the hose will not be to short. All A-bodys had the calipers to the front. Aspen Volare had there calipers to the rear. Easy way to know if it will work, the hard brake line, if its in front of your upper ball joint the caliper goes to the front. If the hard brake line is behind the ball joint the caliper goes to the rear. From the photo it looks like the hard line is behind the ball joint. That's the passenger-side caliper, but its on the driver-side. Did those brake's come off a F-body or any other non A-body?

The problem is that on a 68-72 A body if you use the 73+ BBP brakes and put the calipers to the front they interfere with the sway bar if you run one. So people swap the spindles side for side and run the calipers to the back so they can run a sway bar. Which is fine, except you need longer brake hoses to do that. Hence the longer camaro hoses.

I did put Dippy Aspen Volare calipers on my 75 Scamp for years, an they work great. I never measured the piston diameter. The F-J-M-Body pistons did look bigger. Remember if u get non A-body calipers.. Passenger goes on Driver-side. an vise-versa.
If you want to use the BIG 12 inch rotors from like a Fury, Monoco or Charger just get the caliper brackets an rotors from those cars. Its all bolt-on. [note] must be the slider type brackets.

They’re 11.75” rotors, not 12”. And the pin style work just fine as long as you get the calipers too. Obviously if you want to keep your current calipers you need the slider type. But if you have 2.6” piston A-body calipers going to the 2.75’s is a nice upgrade too.

The FMJ calipers have a 2.75 bore, the A body ones have a 2.6 bore EXCEPT for some 1976 versions that also had a 2.75 bore.

Exactly. Even just using the 2.75” calipers with the stock 73+ disks is a nice little upgrade.
 
Caliper Switch! I switched sides as everyone said. It looks good to go. When I started build I ordered parts for 73 up dart, big bolt pattern. I also ordered
hoses for 1980 diplomat! Hoses bolt up good. I will probably put camero hoses on later. Setup should work nice with small bore manual master cyl. all new lines,proportion valve & 10 in rear brakes! Thankyou for your suggestions!
 
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