DionR
Well-Known Member
There is a cross pin that has to be removed to get that off. Guessing there is a cover or sleeve over it or I would bet you would have seen it already.
74 Duster, resto mod 6.4 conversion in Australia
- Thread starter Ozyduster
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There is a cross pin that has to be removed to get that off. Guessing there is a cover or sleeve over it or I would bet you would have seen it already.
Ill have another look i couldnt see any cover etc, should i replace bearings or just re grease them etc?
DionR
Well-Known Member
Here is the cover that was on mine:
In regards to replacing/greasing bearings and such, I don't have any good input. All I have ever done is take them apart and put them back together.
I would caution you on replacing the turn signal switch though. There was a thread recently about how the replacements are remanufactured and aren't right. I will try and find it and post a link.
The key switch is a maybe, but only if you wanted to try and make an F-Body switch work so you didn't need a pushbutton start circuit. Not sure what your plan is, or even if it is needed for your setup. I was going to go with an F-Body switch, but I think I am going to end up using a late model Charger WIN so won't be doing either. But if you plan to use an A-Body ignition switch and your current one works, not sure I would replace it.
DionR
Well-Known Member
In this case, it was the arm coming loose.
turn signal switch/arm question issue identified and solved
turn signal switch/arm question issue identified and solved
Thanks haha figured it out after that, i have a new indicator mech i may try it and see if it works, if not ill keep the old one and reuse.
I am running the terminator x so woul;d think would just run off the key? Why would i need push button start?
Ill check my new one out and see if needs the same modification as in the link, ill stick with the ignition for now as it all worked and as you know often the new resto stuff is junk
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So got sick of watching youtube vids on my phone whilst working on the car as stopping and starting is pain on the phone. As using lot of youtube vids for how to do a lot of the car assembly etc.
So chucked a tv above the work bench to make it easier, with google tv can voice search for the video i need as well as supper easy stopping and starting lol. Jesus yesterday my cleaning mop and vac robot busted a mop pad and the foot of mop was stuck in the mop holder and magnet so strong couldn't remove it, so watched a how to to pull apart had the robot in a thousand bits, then watched it in reverse to re assemble lol
So chucked a tv above the work bench to make it easier, with google tv can voice search for the video i need as well as supper easy stopping and starting lol. Jesus yesterday my cleaning mop and vac robot busted a mop pad and the foot of mop was stuck in the mop holder and magnet so strong couldn't remove it, so watched a how to to pull apart had the robot in a thousand bits, then watched it in reverse to re assemble lol
How hard should it be to get the bearing on your shaft to fit into the original tube? Any tricks etc i dont want to damage anything. So glad you contacted me this shaft has literally saved me from having to adjust so much of the pipe work, as the original cuppler and extension take so much space
mygasser
Well-Known Member
warm the tube a little with a simple blow lamp, it'll expand making ht bearing fit easier.
neil.
neil.
DionR
Well-Known Member
The issue with the stock switch is that the blue and brown ignition wires are powered at different times. Some people wire these 2 together so the PCM sees a constant key-on power and get away with it. But there is a moment between on and start where neither wire has power and it can cause the PCM to think the key was turned off, depending on how sensitive the PCM is to that. But not all systems have the issue and I don't know if the Terminator X is one where it doesn't matter.
If the PCM doesn't like the momentary break, it will shut the motor off and go through it's start up routine again, resulting in the motor effectively not being able to be started.
The easy fix for that is to only use the run position of the switch and a push button to trigger the start.
There are also relays and such that can fix the issue.
Years ago I tripped over the F-Body switch and came up with the idea of using it instead. The F-Body switch bolts into the column, but the contacts are different and there isn't a break between run and start. But the wiring is different and takes some splicing to make work.
I've got a number of posts in a thread where I wrote up how and why, but while looking for it I tripped over a comment that a Sniper install doesn't have the issue. Since Holley makes both the Sniper EFI and Terminator X, I would guess you won't have an issue.
If you are bored (or want to be), here is the thread.
Clean 12v switched source that is hot cranking and running
Makes sense i better do that then before getting all the column bits painted! Did you use the ht column as well?
mygasser
Well-Known Member
no, but i've had similar issues where a tube's just a few thou' too small, lol.
neil.
neil.
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