8 3/4 ? green bearings or not

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flathead31coupe

flathead31coupe

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if I have two tapered axels no green bearings or adjuster... and iam using a spool why couldn't I just cut and old axel to make up the difference and put between the other axles and run it...
 
Sounds like a good plan.
But then, I've never installed greens. My recollection is that they don't require any location at all, so then the center spacer would be redundant. That is to say;not required at all.
The tapered axles, I'm assuming, are the old style, with a splined,bolt-on flange?
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But, if, by tapered,you mean to say that you want to use the tapered timpkin bearings, then they absolutely need locating.Then your plan will work for a little while, assuming you can cut and finish the spacer to establish the correct endplay. But what happens, down the road, as the bearings wear,and the endplay gets excessive, and there are no adjusters?
I suppose you could install a shim pack on one side, and then install/fit your spacer.Then you could adjust the endplay with the shim-pack.
Nuttin' wrong wit dat idea,'cept da hassle of changing shims.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Sounds like a good plan.
But then, I've never installed greens. My recollection is that they don't require any location at all, so then the center spacer would be redundant. That is to say;not required at all.
The tapered axles, I'm assuming, are the old style, with a splined,bolt-on flange?
-------------------------------------------------------
But, if, by tapered,you mean to say that you want to use the tapered timpkin bearings, then they absolutely need locating.Then your plan will work for a little while, assuming you can cut and finish the spacer to establish the correct endplay. But what happens, down the road, as the bearings wear,and the endplay gets excessive, and there are no adjusters?
I suppose you could install a shim pack on one side, and then install/fit your spacer.Then you could adjust the endplay with the shim-pack.
Nuttin' wrong wit dat idea,'cept da hassle of changing shims.
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I was just thinking since I have the two non adj tapered axels already...and using a spool that's splined straight through. just make up the difference between the axels with a slight tolerance.. it would wrk
 
Ok so you are talking about the spacer in the middle that normally allows for the preload on tapered bearings with an adjuster. So... If you don't have green bearings or an adjuster what type of axle bearings do you have? Do they require a preload? If not no spacer is needed.
 
flathead31coupe said:
I was just thinking since I have the two non adj tapered axels already...and using a spool that's splined straight through. just make up the difference between the axels with a slight tolerance.. it would wrk
Click to expand...
when you use the green or ball bearings what are you really doing when you change to them
 
flathead31coupe said:
when you use the green or ball bearings what are you really doing when you change to them
Click to expand...

Eliminating the cone and cup. They are supposed to be of the proper dimension to just fill the housing area for the old bearing and not require adjustment or preload. There are the snap ring retainer type and the press on retainer ring type.
 
the tapered chrysler roller greasable bearings are better than the green sealed ball bearings, especially in a non straight line only car. If U have stock roller bearings why no adjuster? my spool is not splined all the way thru, but is hollow, so U could use a piece of axle as a spacer-BUT it needs to be of a precise length to give the axle bearings .005" - .015" play! (without an adjuster)
 
A customer of mine has a very heavy E body he road races. Car will run 145+ on the track, 550hp stroked B wedge. It runs the 8 3/4 with Green bearings, good axles, and a Tru Trac. He abuses that car much more than anything a street car guy will do and they've been in there for 10 years. Nothing "weaker" about the sealed Green bearings vs. factory tapered cone.
 
moper said:
A customer of mine has a very heavy E body he road races. Car will run 145+ on the track, 550hp stroked B wedge. It runs the 8 3/4 with Green bearings, good axles, and a Tru Trac. He abuses that car much more than anything a street car guy will do and they've been in there for 10 years. Nothing "weaker" about the sealed Green bearings vs. factory tapered cone.
Click to expand...

Thank You, i don't know where this BS comes from that Green bearings are not good for cornering?
 
Marcohotrod said:
the tapered chrysler roller greasable bearings are better than the green sealed ball bearings, especially in a non straight line only car. If U have stock roller bearings why no adjuster? my spool is not splined all the way thru, but is hollow, so U could use a piece of axle as a spacer-BUT it needs to be of a precise length to give the axle bearings .005" - .015" play! (without an adjuster)
Click to expand...

Early tapered axles did not use an adjuster. They used shims between the backing plate and axle flange on both sides. The spacer beween axle ends needs to be used on Timkin bearings. For Green bearings, the spacer can be eliminated.

For your question, yes, you can use a cut axle as a spacer as long as it is captured.
 
moper said:
A customer of mine has a very heavy E body he road races. Car will run 145+ on the track, 550hp stroked B wedge. It runs the 8 3/4 with Green bearings, good axles, and a Tru Trac. He abuses that car much more than anything a street car guy will do and they've been in there for 10 years. Nothing "weaker" about the sealed Green bearings vs. factory tapered cone.
Click to expand...

lets not get facts in the way of a green bearing bashing.. :)

the same green bearings have been in my 8 3/4 since the mid 90's.
 
moper said:
A customer of mine has a very heavy E body he road races. Car will run 145+ on the track, 550hp stroked B wedge. It runs the 8 3/4 with Green bearings, good axles, and a Tru Trac. He abuses that car much more than anything a street car guy will do and they've been in there for 10 years. Nothing "weaker" about the sealed Green bearings vs. factory tapered cone.
Click to expand...

couldn't have said it better, and like i said, eliminates the adjuster.
higgs
 
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