8 3/4 help!!!

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ken5124

ken5124

65 Valiant Signet
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Just got a b body 8 3/4 , which I am going to put in my 65 Valiant ( narrow a body) LBP using a 742 pumpkin ( open for now)

These axle's have a nut with cotter pin on the end of them .. Is that right?
Don't know much about them...

Info anyone..

I am going to move the spring perch's in from 44 to 43 inches and use a different back space( i hope, to allow this slightly wider rear end to fit . 59 inch outside flange to flange


Once I am done switching to LBP, anyone have interest in a set of sbp 14 inch wheel vintigues rally's with caps and trim rings?

Thanks
 
What you got there Ken is the precursor to the 741 which was the 657 which had the ends of the axles tapered, keyed and the brake drum was held on by a nut with cotter pin. It was used from 1957-64 when the 741 arrived with it's flanged end axle shafts. In short you do not want to use these axles and you'll need new drums and backing plates (not sure about shoes and hardware) when you switch to flanged axles. I guess what I'm getting at is you may want to shop around for the proper A body length 742 rear end housing complete with brakes and components then use your pumpkin.

http://www.autohobbydigest.com/axlepul.html

Terry
 
Early keyed axles/drum...

You are likely going to end up swapping those out and need new housing ends. The ends are different from later model ends. The pattern on a set I had the top two holes were different from the non-keyed axle end housings.

You'll need new drum/backing plates and hardware.
 
i have an 8 3/4 from a 53 fargo with the castle nuts, and remove able hubs with the keys with 4.11's or 4.10's also has a perfectly round backing plate mounting flange and 5 evenly placed lugs vs the newer 8 3/4's with the partial circle/ non uniform spacing around...... the shoes are 2 in wide and the drums are 11in diameter i believe, was going to use it on my duster but figured it would be too much work converting the backing plates as new drums are very hard to find.........
 
Well this slows my conversion down a bit.. Thanks for the info..

So I will need newer flanged axles... Is it a for sure on a change of housing ends?? I am thinking I could adapt a newer style backing plate to this housing, change axles and b ok?

This housing came with no brakes or drums, so that will have to be replaced anyway.

And the housing was cheap..

Any additional suggestions?

If I have to change the housing ends, anyone have experience on that?
 
I think your better off getting a A-body rear,wether it be 8 3/4 or 8 1/4.Also brake hardware and parts are easier to get.(Carquest)
 
You can buy new housing ends and have that rear narrowed at the same time. You'd then be assured of the correct fit. You have to buy axles anyway so it's not that big of a deal. Most driveline or race shops will narrow the rear for about $150 plus the ends are about $70 for a pair. Possibly still cheaper than an A body rear housing.
 
Thanks .. I think the housing ends and the correct width is the best answer... Might even be able to keep the Small bolt pattern wheels, although I probably won't
 
Took the housing apart on the weekend.. housing ends measure up same as the newer 8 3/4 so that should be good..

Questions??
1. if I keep the b body length... I think I will have a hard time finding a 6 inch rim that has the 5 1/2 inch backspace I would need.

2. If i shorten the rear end, I am thinking 2 inches each side.. the b body rear measures 60 inches ( axle face to axle face) , while the a body rear is 57 1/4.. will that small decrease in overall width make much difference.


I can get the backing plate to drum hardware easily enough, and will have to order special length axles LBP to fit

Does this make sense?
 
If you shorten the housing and move spring perches, don't just go to 43" perch spacing. You can get the offset rear hangers and the offset front hanger to get about 1/2" narrower each side. These are all just bolt in mods to get more tire room to springs. Set for A-body P4120077/P4120075.
 
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