8.75 it is, now i need to narrow it HELP

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moparmat2000

moparmat2000

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hi all

i posted a thread on here about the mopar 8.75 axle VS the ford explorer disc brake rear. well its settled i got an 8.75 from a 67 newport with a 742 center chunk 3.23 gears complete drum to drum for $100. price was always a consideration but trying to keep it mostly mopar was also. so when this one popped up with a 742 chunk i bought it.

so heres the big question, does anybody know where i can send the housing out to get it narrowed to a stock A body width, along with perches welded in. i can do the perches myself if need be, but the narrowing needs to be done with a jig to keep it all square.

also what is the stock pinion angle for this setup in an A body if i have to put the perches in myself?

what is the stock length of an A body 8.75" axle from backing plate flange to backing plate flange?

i plan on using new A body BBP axles with green bearings from mancini racing unless i can get my C body ones cut and resplined. anybody know where i can get the resplining done

can i use the 10.50" drums and backing plates off the 74 dart V8 rear axle?? its a 7.25" axle but the mating flange pattern for the backing plates looks to be the same pattern. the 11.0" diameter drums off the C body look to be a little large for this setup.

if you want you can post here but also please email me privately at [email protected] as i am not on here often enough to get the posts.

thanks
matt
 
Moparmat, call Moser engineering, they can do all of this for you. Excellent customer service too, just tell them what you have they will tell you what will work.
 
Try looking in phone book...someone local probably can narrow the rear..

driveline service in vegas does it for 150 bucks...they have the correct tools to square the ends...
 
Send it to Moser. They can do whatever you need, and even sell you and put on the Green bearings. I would do the perches myself though. Just incase you want to do a different pinion angle.
 
caferacerx said:
not sure how accurate this is, but its a start
http://www.mymopar.com/axledims.htm
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NUKE that chart... it's WRONG! 52 5/8" is the correct flange to flange A body width.

Answered some of your questions in the other thread.

Any driveline shop or race car fab shop should be able to shorten the rear. If close to Moser, they are very good.
 
moparsegura said:
Send it to Moser. They can do whatever you need, and even sell you and put on the Green bearings. I would do the perches myself though. Just incase you want to do a different pinion angle.
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Break it apart and send the housing and axles, if they are thick and long enough, to Mosers, and tell them what you want. Large bolt pattern axles and std drums change the housing length to keep the same track width on an "A" Body. They have all the jigs and fixtures. I would have them do it all. It will be right when you get it back. Ditch the Green bearings unless you are making a Drag only car. The original "1967" bearings will last longer and take the side loads for handling. I did this with a truck rear and was pleasantly suprised how affordable it was.
 
66fs said:
Break it apart and send the housing and axles, if they are thick and long enough, to Mosers, and tell them what you want. Large bolt pattern axles and std drums change the housing length to keep the same track width on an "A" Body. They have all the jigs and fixtures. I would have them do it all. It will be right when you get it back. Ditch the Green bearings unless you are making a Drag only car. The original "1967" bearings will last longer and take the side loads for handling. I did this with a truck rear and was pleasantly suprised how affordable it was.
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Why does everybody hate the Greens???? I've run them on the street now for 5 years no problems. Seems there are no reports of them failing but theory they will fail because of there design??? I love them myself. I drive the hell out of my car and they are good stuff.
 
moparsegura said:
Why does everybody hate the Greens???? I've run them on the street now for 5 years no problems. Seems there are no reports of them failing but theory they will fail because of there design??? I love them myself. I drive the hell out of my car and they are good stuff.
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you only need them if you are running a "SPOOL", or if you need to change out your center section often they make it easier and quicker, otherwise you don't need them, and the stock bearings are way stronger
 
RE your comment about the Brakes from the CBody... When I had my CBody 8.75 cut down, I reused the 11" brakes that came with it without any issues at all and I continue to use the 14" rims.
 
caferacerx said:
you only need them if you are running a "SPOOL", or if you need to change out your center section often they make it easier and quicker, otherwise you don't need them, and the stock bearings are way stronger
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I just bought a custom length Strange 60 rear end for my Dart. They didn't offer me anything but Green bearings. I think they'll be ok for any street/strip project.
 
I had Moser do mine turned out great. If your going to use the wider C body brakes the axles have a slightly wider offset, that is easily to take care of since you are narrowing anyway. Tell them what you are doing and what you want, they will take good care of you.
 
BrianT said:
I just bought a custom length Strange 60 rear end for my Dart. They didn't offer me anything but Green bearings. I think they'll be ok for any street/strip project.
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plenty of people run them with no problem so you should be fine
they just have no advantage over stock tapered bearings in a street car
 
i did some tape measuring today. the 1967 C body 8.75 rear drums are 11" in diameter, but only 4" wide from front of drum at wheel mating flange to back of backing plate.

the drum setup off the V8 74 dart 7.25" rear is 10.50" diameter, and 4.50" wide from front of drum at wheel mating flange to back of backing plate

so the C body drums are a little narrower. i may still run rear discs in the future tho. even though some will balk at this. it is relatively easy and inexpensive to do. a jeep cherokee front rotor slides on, same bolt pattern, and is vented. get a set of weld on rear caliper brackets from speedway motors, and a set of GM rear calipers with integral parking brake feature.

for those who will whine at the thought of GM calipers. most of the conversion kits on the market for mopar front brakes today use GM big bore 2.75" diameter piston front calipers. i intend to use these calipers on the front of the cuda along with large cordoba rotors.

anyway i think moser will be getting a call from me. most of y'all seem to agree on this one so looks like its a go.

thanks guys
matt
 
moparsegura said:
Why does everybody hate the Greens???? I've run them on the street now for 5 years no problems. Seems there are no reports of them failing but theory they will fail because of there design??? I love them myself. I drive the hell out of my car and they are good stuff.
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Look at Green Bearings, then at the factory tapered needle bearings, no comparison. Factory bearings are over designed, like most Chrysler stuff. Don't try cruising a 100 mph or above for any length of time with Greens.
 
66fs said:
Don't try cruising a 100 mph or above for any length of time with Greens.
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Guess my buddy that runs the Silver State Classic 140mph class is doing something wrong...

Millions upon millions of cars run the green style bearings. My favorite comment ever was from a guy that would never run greens because they don't handle side loads well... meanwhile he had 15x3.5 on the front of his car....



Moparmatt... measure the pad width and inside drum diameter. DO NOT measure the overall drum size. The pad sectional area is what applies braking force.
 
crackedback said:
Guess my buddy that runs the Silver State Classic 140mph class is doing something wrong...

Millions upon millions of cars run the green style bearings. My favorite comment ever was from a guy that would never run greens because they don't handle side loads well... meanwhile he had 15x3.5 on the front of his car...
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Green bearings work, they are just sealed spherical ball bearings. We used to run 100 mph for hours on end. I've got 400,000 mile on an 8 3/4 in a 67 Barracuda. I'd tell your buddy to check those bearings from time to time. From what I can gather, since I cannot find the specs for the Green bearings, I'd guess the tapered factory bearings will handle about 5x the Radial loads and about 10x the Axial loads that the Greens will. I guesstimated a sealed spherical ball bearings of the same approximate size compared to the Timken factory bearing. I have 8 3/4 rears in all my "A" bodies because of the factory tapered rear axle bearings. They are that much better, more so if you are running fast or taking corners hard. It is your car, you get to decide. I've run at 140 mph and shudder to think what would happen if anything went wrong. I made my decisions for my cars.

Below is an answer from MOPAR ACTION Tech Question by Rick Ehrenberg, SAE.

Ray, the Greens are low-capacity ball bearings...maybe 1/10 the side-load capacity of the stock Timkens. They are fine for drag racing, pretty lousy on the street, and pretty scary if you're into cornering or towing! (Admittedly, I've never personally seen one catastrophically fail, but I've seen plenty get noisy and sloppy)...
I also must add that, except that they require more care during assembly (packing with lube, endplay adjustment, etc.) the stock Timken tapered roller setup is about as good as it gets.
Rick
 
Virtually millions of FWD and independant front suspension 4WD vehicles use a double row ball bearing that is of the same design as the Green bearing from the factory to support the wheel hubs and I have seen them on the backs of FWD cars to. This type of bearing is designed to handle side loads by having the outer edges of the races wrap around the ball. The inner race on these bearings is two pieces so they can be pressed in from opposite sides during the assembly process.

I do not know what the difference in the axial load rating of the Green is compared to the factory tapered roller but I doubt it's 1/10 and to say generically that the Green design is inferior to a tapered roller bearing is silly.
 
66fs said:
Look at Green Bearings, then at the factory tapered needle bearings, no comparison. Factory bearings are over designed, like most Chrysler stuff. Don't try cruising a 100 mph or above for any length of time with Greens.
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define "any length of time"...

have had green bearings in my dart since the mid 90's. the cars been a daily driver, beat on at the track and now cruised a lot on the street and in the turns and sees over 100 mph on a regular basis, never had a problem with the bearings. hell the bearings have out lasted a few motors and transmissions...lmao.
 
(Admittedly, I've never personally seen one catastrophically fail, but I've seen plenty get noisy and sloppy)...
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lol.. guess no tapered bearings have ever gotten noisy or sloppy?
 
dgc333 said:
...I do not know what the difference in the axial load rating of the Green is compared to the factory tapered roller but I doubt it's 1/10 and to say generically that the Green design is inferior to a tapered roller bearing is silly.
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If you know anything about the bearing design, it is silly to think that Greens are not inferior to tapered roller bearings.
 
abodyjoe said:
lol.. guess no tapered bearings have ever gotten noisy or sloppy?
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LOL... I would'nt know, I still have a set of originals in a 67 cuda with 400,000 miles on them. Still running fine. We used to cruise all day long @ 100 mph. I don't know, after 44 years maybe the seals will dry rot.
 
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