850 thermo quad

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Originalowner73 340duster

Originalowner73 340duster

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Put few hundred miles on my car since back on road ..starting to have high idle after I get on her and do a few rips after warm up cruise, but she will come down to normal idle sometimes after a little bit ..also has hard starting after warm,have to floor gas to start almost like it's flooded.. runs fine if you just cruising around and she is strong and has no misses on cruising or running it hard..could I just possibly have picked up some shitty gas?? Been using 93. And did have to put 87 In her but started doing before I put the 87 I. Anyway?? thanks guys!!
 
High idle that slowly comes down?

Vacuum leak.

Hard start when warmed up?

A few things come to mind.
Choke partially closed, state of tune, timing.
At what rpm does it idle?
 
Has all new hoses,intake manifold gaskets,all services good and electrical good
rumblefish360 said:
High idle that slowly comes down?

Vacuum leak.

Hard start when warmed up?

A few things come to mind.
Choke partially closed, state of tune, timing.
At what rpm does it idle?
Click to expand...
My tach is out..so not sure on exact rpm..but just went out put some octane additive and idle is still high .. going to try and adjust idle now and see how she does..
 
hard start when warm makes me think bad floats, bad float setting, bad/loose needle/seat.
fast idle makes me think bad choke pulloff, and/or bad choke linkage adjustment.
 
rustycowll69 said:
hard start when warm makes me think bad floats, bad float setting, bad/loose needle/seat.
fast idle makes me think bad choke pulloff, and/or bad choke linkage adjustment.
Click to expand...
Carb has no choke cable??.. linkage just flops..going to take carb apart and see if anything's amiss..then figure out where to put the cable for choke and what's missing to hook up the choke cable???.. guess I should have started their .lol
 
I don't think I've ever seen a manual choke TQ. I guess some of the racing TQ''s might not be auto chokes. On a regular TQ, the fast idle, choke, choke-stat, choke pulloff, secondaries are all inter-related. I don't know how that would work with a manual choke.
 
Guess I'm missing piece on passenger side of carb..their is an adjuster but nothing leaning for it to touch?? 1534882154514890393560.jpg
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several pieces. (electric?)choke thermostat is mia. there are two linkage pieces and spring and retaining screw missing from the end of the shaft where the orange cap is now. there's probably an idle stop solenoid missing at Rt frt corner of carb. On the plus side, the links that I can see are in the right place! I once bought a TQ carb at a swap meet, that had every one of the links in the wrong place and each one bent to rat-$hit to try to make them work.
 
There is no OE manual choke TQ.
Only the racing TQ’s have a manual choke.
Your missing the choke set up. It bolts into that “Y” shaped well on the passenger side. It has a rod that goes up and connects to the carb in conjunction with the pull off.

The “Adjuster” is where the solenoid goes to prevent run on by closing the butterflies when you shut the engine off.
Also noticed your EGR valve is not hooked up.
 
rustycowll69 said:
several pieces. (electric?)choke thermostat is mia. there are two linkage pieces and spring and retaining screw missing from the end of the shaft where the orange cap is now. there's probably an idle stop solenoid missing at Rt frt corner of carb. On the plus side, the links that I can see are in the right place! I once bought a TQ carb at a swap meet, that had every one of the links in the wrong place and each one bent to rat-$hit to try to make them work.
Click to expand...
Their are no electronics on the carb.. always been like that from what I remember. I drove at least 25 k with setup like it is..must be messed up inside??
 
Hard to tell by your picture but Looks like it should be the one on drivers side that is capped, small to the out side of mixture screw. No vacuum at idle, vacuum will start as throttle is opened.
 
spl440 said:
Hard to tell by your picture but Looks like it should be the one on drivers side that is capped, small to the out side of mixture screw. No vacuum at idle, vacuum will start as throttle is opened.
Click to expand...
The vacuum for the butterfly is getting vacuum from Port on back of carb in lower middle..
 
Is your car set up to run full vacuum advance or ported advance? Sounds like part of your problem COULD be you should be running ported advance. If so, confirm forward is ported, if so connect and try that with the proper adjustments.
 
spl440 said:
Is your car set up to run full vacuum advance or ported advance? Sounds like part of your problem COULD be you should be running ported advance. If so, confirm forward is ported, if so connect and try that with the proper adjustments.
Click to expand...
Nothing on distributor.. vacuum piece looks messed up on it tho...my dad was known for rigging Stuff.. everything looks ok inside distributor tho..I'm going to hook up other way and see what happens
 
Dash pot vacuum does go to the rear of carb so would leave that there. Sounds like you need a vacuum advance can for your distributer. Would research on FABO the best way to set up timing for a street car. A lot of good info. For a street car vacuum advance is needed. Drive ability, MPG and performance all in one. Learn how to set up initial, adjust total and adjust timing curve. The fastest advance is usually NOt what is wanted for the street, Adjust for your car, motor, gear. driving style etc. Take your time, hell if I can do it, anyone can ! And timing first, then adjust carb to match.
 
spl440 said:
Is your car set up to run full vacuum advance or ported advance? Sounds like part of your problem COULD be you should be running ported advance. If so, confirm forward is ported, if so connect and try that with the proper adjustments.
Click to expand...
His car is stock and is missing the vacuum advance hose. This is the way a Mopar should be set up. Not full time advance.
 
Should still be using ported vacuum advance, even if all the other smog stuff is removed.
 
I have seen the idle hang up when the throttle valves are too far up the transfer ports.
Reduce your curb idle speed, and if necessary increase your idle-timing slightly.
This assumes, no vacuum leaks, and the choke is all the way off, and the secondaries are fully closed but not sticking, and the PCV is correct and functioning, and the charcoal canister is correctly plumbed and inactive at idle, as it should be, and the signal line is not sucking air. lol
 
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