904 leaking pan,,any tricks?

-
fstfish66

fstfish66

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 8, 2006
Messages
4,615
Reaction score
73
Location
east coast
same ole story,,,904 no matter what ive tried the pan/bolts leak,,,when i got the car it had a chrome MP pan,,,got rid of that went to a steel pan,,,ive tried every type of gasket,,,even the factory reuseable ,, currently i have just a bead of right stuff,,,it seemed to be ok,,but the car was sitting for a few years,,now its back running and dripping,,,,

thinking of getting a diecast aluminum pan,,,,any one using one ??? what did you use for a gasket???? thanks
 
Are you absolutely,100%, sure its the gasket?

The seal around the shift lever can seep/leak whenever the transoil comes that high. It will dribble over the side and down the pan rail and eventually drip onto the floor.This situation arises when the vehicle sits for extended periods of time and the TC drains back into the pan.It may not leak, but only seep, if the fluid never gets that high.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Are you absolutely,100%, sure its the gasket?

The seal around the shift lever can seep/leak whenever the transoil comes that high. It will dribble over the side and down the pan rail and eventually drip onto the floor.This situation arises when the vehicle sits for extended periods of time and the TC drains back into the pan.It may not leak, but only seep, if the fluid never gets that high.
Click to expand...

i was hoping that what it was,,but its dry as a bone up top,,,it appears to be seeping around the bolts on the pan,,,,just looking for ideas of any oen that has had sucess,,getting a 904 pan not to leak,,thanks
 
fstfish66 said:
i was hoping that what it was,,but its dry as a bone up top,,,it appears to be seeping around the bolts on the pan,,,,just looking for ideas of any oen that has had sucess,,getting a 904 pan not to leak,,thanks
Click to expand...
Put a bit of the Right Stuff on the bolts and reinstall...has worked for me.:D
 
Well, IMO, 904 pans are not prone to leakage. Sure used pans need careful massaging prior to returning them to service. The rails are often twisted, bent or non-flat. The areas around the boltholes are often distorted and even cracked by overzealous persons in a feeble attempt to stop leaks. Sometimes after silicon has been used, and not fully removed the next gasket just leaks too.There is often a lot to be done to a pan and its mating surface and to each and every bolt, to make it work, especially after a silicon product has been used. Cork and silicon are two things I absolutely refuse to put on there.
This is how I would do it:
I would take the pan off,clean it off,perfectly.I would lay it on the bench,oil side up, and lay a sheet of glass on it. Through the glass,I can see the problem(s). I make the pan flat.In every dimension.I make sure there is/are no cracks around any bolt holes.I scrape and scotchbrite all that RightStuff off the tranny, and out of the threads.I Brakleen all the surfaces. I clean the threads of all the bolts.I wire wheel them.Then I put a new, high-quality, black,impregnated, gasket on there, and slap it together. I Torque the fasteners. I would retorque them after the the first heat cycle.When I retorque, it means loosen first,then retorque.
Those are my tips.
 
I would take the pan off, let it sit a day or four until it is slam drained. Then hit the pan rail with some brake cleaner and clean the hell out of it.

Dry that off GOOD and get a BRIGHT light and a magnifying glass and look closely at each bolt hole for cracks. I've seen it happen. A good bit, actually. The RTV on the bolt threads will usually fix it, unless it is a really bad crack.
 
Thought my dart was leaking around the pan also , was wet on most bolts everytime the trans cooled down it started .But found out last year it was coming from the dipstick tube o ring , and running around the pan .Check there before you do anything it is up a little and is not noticeable at first .
 
RustyRatRod said:
I would take the pan off, let it sit a day or four until it is slam drained. Then hit the pan rail with some brake cleaner and clean the hell out of it.

Dry that off GOOD and get a BRIGHT light and a magnifying glass and look closely at each bolt hole for cracks. I've seen it happen. A good bit, actually. The RTV on the bolt threads will usually fix it, unless it is a really bad crack.
Click to expand...

Good call there RRR.



kt340sport said:
Thought my dart was leaking around the pan also , was wet on most bolts everytime the trans cooled down it started .But found out last year it was coming from the dipstick tube o ring , and running around the pan .Check there before you do anything it is up a little and is not noticeable at first .
Click to expand...

That's what makes finding these leaks so hard sometimes, as the fluid travels but it's hard to see it.
But it almost always settles at the lowest point it can find so it fools people.
 
Take the pan off and get the pan mount surface flat (flat steel bars and hammer). Take a blunt large punch and hit the pan holes downward . Over time the bolt holes basicly get countersunk. A little right stuff on the bolts and torque to 120 inch lbs. Retorque the next day. I use the ATP black pan gaskets with sealant only on the bolts and they don't leak.
 
Fighting the same problem with a 727. Laid fresh cardboard under it and watched for close to an hour after running...three drops and couldn't tell where they started. Two off a pan bolt on the front and one off the center low point on the bellhousing....Next morning, probably 4 oz puddle , mostly running side to side under the front of the pan.

I need a good trick to FIND the source.
I already paid a shop to reseal the trans out of the car on the bench, and apparently they missed something. :banghead:


Thinking of cutting and taping some strips of shop towel up above the pan to see if it's above the pan.
Any better ideas?
 
Quote from: grassynoel on December 10, 2012, 10:13:13 PM
I had Sam McDonald from K&N Yamaha (yes, K&N air filters and team Kenny Roberts fame) tell me to go get some cheap Arid type spray deodorant. Clean the engine off, let it air dry well, then spray the motor, use the whole can and let it dry, it will leave a white talc residue all over the motor. After it dries, go ride it a little bit, the talc will show a wet spot where its leaking. I tried this on my wife's Suzuki, never located the leak, but the bike sure smelled pretty for a week or so.

"I did that with Dr. Scholl's foot powder trying to find an oil weep on my RSV Mille - worked like a champ. "

In addition to paper towels, you can use some spray powder (your choice, doesn't have to be name brand) to check an area above gasket area, dipstick, etc.. I would clean area with brake cleaner first.

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=58960.0
 
thanks for every ones imput,,, this pan is new,,i dont think the bolt holes are out of wack,,but when i pull it i will examine it, i ordered a tci cast aluminum pan,,, i was thinking the same thing,, right stuff on the bolt threads,,,

where do i get this impregnated gasket ??? thanks every one,,,, i hope to get on this next week,,, ill write back my findings,,,

the pan comes with a gasket,,,hopefully its not a paper gasket,,,,
 
THE RIGHT STUFF. works every time. I had this same problem. I slathered this stuff on thick and it has never leaked since. But your have to clean the pan rails and the transmission edges otherwise it won't work.
 
alpha13 said:
THE RIGHT STUFF. works every time. I had this same problem. I slathered this stuff on thick and it has never leaked since. But your have to clean the pan rails and the transmission edges otherwise it won't work.
Click to expand...

thanks,,,,
 
KnuckleDuster said:
Fighting the same problem with a 727. Laid fresh cardboard under it and watched for close to an hour after running...three drops and couldn't tell where they started. Two off a pan bolt on the front and one off the center low point on the bellhousing....Next morning, probably 4 oz puddle , mostly running side to side under the front of the pan.

I need a good trick to FIND the source.
I already paid a shop to reseal the trans out of the car on the bench, and apparently they missed something. :banghead:


Thinking of cutting and taping some strips of shop towel up above the pan to see if it's above the pan.
Any better ideas?
Click to expand...

When I have a tough one to find I wipe it off with a good rag and spray the areas I'm going to be looking at with silver spray paint.
Then when the fluid leaks it makes a VERY visible track in that paint.
 
I was certain my pan was leaking. I was using toilet paper to try to figure out where it was coming from and could not detect any moisture above the gasket. After 3 tries with the gasket I finally put a new o-ring on the dip stick tube. Problem solved.

It might also be your shift shaft or throttle pressure shaft seal. The point is, what appears to be a leaky gasket might be something higher up.
 
There is a gasket that is basically leak free since I put it on. It's a dealer part for 12 dollars. Hit up 70aarcuda, he has the part number
 
I tried everything I could for a Leaking pan. 5 times had it off. It was actually the shifter seal. Might not be the pan. MT
 
The New pans can come crooked as heck as well my new pan needed a good massage along the rails when I switched to the deep pan , that's where I would start after a good cleaning .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top