904 torque converter stall speed

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I have a rebuilt 318, whiplash cam, headers, 904 automatic, curved Petronix dist and 3.23 sure grip spinning 245/60-15's in a 67 satellite.
Which converter vendor and stall speed would you recommend ?

Hughes says 1800 to 2200 (stock to mild)
I've heard Hughes are looser.
Converters are bit of a mystery to me.
Curious what others run or guidance from here.
 
Yes, a 1800-2200 is about stock.Being a B body look for a 2500-3000.
Most converters are rated in "Flash" and a 2500-3000 will stall around 2300.Mine did.Rated at 3000.It was from Hughes.
If you do mostly street I wouldn't go more than 3500.But that's your call.
Vendors vary.I hear Dynamic Frank Lupo are good. Call around and give them your specs.
You may or may not get the cold shoulder.If they are really interested in selling you a converter they will take the time and walk you through the process.
 
The 340's when new brake stalled at 2800 -3000. 1800 -2200 is for a plow truck. Get a 3000-3500 and you will be happy with it. lower then that the car will be a real pig and chug like a old train at idle in gear with any type of larger performance cam.
 
My experience with Hughes Converters is they pretty much stall as advertised. The stall RPM may vary 200/300 RPM based on your build. 65
 
Here are the factory specifications.

1733616569911.png
 
The 340's when new brake stalled at 2800 -3000. 1800 -2200 is for a plow truck. Get a 3000-3500 and you will be happy with it. lower then that the car will be a real pig and chug like a old train at idle in gear with any type of larger performance cam.
That right there ^^^^^^
 
I have a rebuilt 318, whiplash cam, headers, 904 automatic, curved Petronix dist and 3.23 sure grip spinning 245/60-15's in a 67 satellite.
Which converter vendor and stall speed would you recommend ?

Hughes says 1800 to 2200 (stock to mild)
I've heard Hughes are looser.
Converters are bit of a mystery to me.
Curious what others run or guidance from here.
In your case, it's gonna be tricky.
You don't say what your Scr is, nor how much cranking cylinder pressure she makes, nor even include any cam specs.
So then, it's almost impossible to guess the personality of your combo; and,
then you stick it with 3.23s, in an early B-body!
My guess is that the 67 originally was a 9/1 engine, but after a rebuild it could be anything. and the whiplash is gonna tank the CCP pressure way down from ideal. Therefore, the entire bottom end power from idle to maybe 3000 is gonna be a write-off.
IMO
you're gonna need to stall it up at least to where, the cam/combo finally comes on line.
My guess would be minimum true 2800Flash. But-um, I'm just guessing.
I'm also guessing those 3.23s are gonna be temporary, lol. Cuz mathematically, you'll probably not get into Second gear at WOT until 50 mph, which is a long pull for a 318..
 
In your case, it's gonna be tricky.
You don't say what your Scr is, nor how much cranking cylinder pressure she makes, nor even include any cam specs.
So then, it's almost impossible to guess the personality of your combo; and,
then you stick it with 3.23s, in an early B-body!
My guess is that the 67 originally was a 9/1 engine, but after a rebuild it could be anything. and the whiplash is gonna tank the CCP pressure way down from ideal. Therefore, the entire bottom end power from idle to maybe 3000 is gonna be a write-off.
IMO
you're gonna need to stall it up at least to where, the cam/combo finally comes on line.
My guess would be minimum true 2800Flash. But-um, I'm just guessing.
I'm also guessing those 3.23s are gonna be temporary, lol. Cuz mathematically, you'll probably not get into Second gear at WOT until 50 mph, which is a long pull for a 318..
AJ, based on charts, my SCR is around 8.1-8.5. CCP is about 135-145. Cam card below.
1733702290053.png
 
I have a rebuilt 318, whiplash cam, headers, 904 automatic, curved Petronix dist and 3.23 sure grip spinning 245/60-15's in a 67 satellite.
Which converter vendor and stall speed would you recommend ?

Hughes says 1800 to 2200 (stock to mild)
I've heard Hughes are looser.
Converters are bit of a mystery to me.
Curious what others run or guidance from here.
Get all your specs together and then send them to a couple of converter builders and see what think will best suit your application. There have been a number of converter builders mentioned on this forum in the past, see who they are and what users of their product say. Be honest with your information, because giving them the wrong information, will get you the wrong converter. What other mods other than the cam and headers have you done to up the HP of your engine? Looking at what you've noted you've done to the engine, probably somewhere in the 2800 RPM range. Any idea of how much HP you think you've got?
 
Get all your specs together and then send them to a couple of converter builders and see what think will best suit your application. There have been a number of converter builders mentioned on this forum in the past, see who they are and what users of their product say. Be honest with your information, because giving them the wrong information, will get you the wrong converter. What other mods other than the cam and headers have you done to up the HP of your engine? Looking at what you've noted you've done to the engine, probably somewhere in the 2800 RPM range. Any idea of how much HP you think you've got?
i would be guessing at HP. Motor has LD4B intake, Edelbrock 600cfm, Dougs headers, Petronix curved for the whiplash cam. 904 was slipping a bit...extended 1-2 shifts and a bit sluggish off the line.
 
AJ, based on charts, my SCR is around 8.1-8.5. CCP is about 135-145. Cam card below.
a bit sluggish off the line.

I'm not an automatic guy. and I feel that there are many, more qualified guys on board to steer you in the right direction. Therefore, I can only offer my opinion which is coming, lol.
>A bit sluggish off the line? What is the current stall?

1) If your 904 is slipping already, fix it now! cuz if you pump crap thru your brand new convertor, I don't see that ending well.
2) IDK what you need. But I know what I'd want;
I'd want a minimum 2200 for the cam,
plus 300 for the low pressure,
plus 200 more for the B-body weight
plus 200 for the 3.23s ;
equals a minimum of 2900. That's what I'd want.
3) But your 213*cam is done by ~4600ish, say a 1>2 shift @5000, and
Your 904 has a .59 1>2 shift split, so, .59x 5000=2960. So your powerband wants to be from 2960 to 5000. That's a really long pull. Therefore, Ima gonna round that up ~20%, to say 3400.
4) The problem is that mathematically 65mph=2714 with 26" tires at Zero slip. Add say 3% for typical slip equals a cruise rpm of say 2800. So if Ima gonna cruise a lot, that 3400 is gonna pump heat into the trans-oil, and from there into your cooling system. Therefore, I'd go back to the 2800, maybe a 3000 tops.
But if it's a city car, those 3.23s are getting swapped out for at least 3.91s; which will change the cruise rpm to ~3400, which puts the 3400Tc back on the table.
5) IMHO,
I gotta say this. A stock lo-compression 318 pumps about 140psi at sealevel. Mine when it got fresh rings, pumped 135 at 930ft elevation. and I do run 3.23s behind it. With a TQ on top, a small-port Iron intake, and a good tune; it does pretty fine with a 2800. I'm happy enough with it, that I have never changed it, in the several decades it has been in service.
But I admit, she's still running the Factory cam, and, altho, she's been in several A-bodies, over the decades, she is currently installed in an 84 D100, lol.
Sometimes she was my DD, sometimes a weekend blaster, another stretch of five years, she was my winter-engine. Then my son loved it so much, He bought it and we installed it into his D100, and he drove it for more than 5 years. and then, when he got married, it came to roost back home, and now, she's a dump-runner. That old 1973 engine has a lotta lotta miles on her. Almost all of them with me, were with the 2800Tc.
She has, at one time or another, run nearly every gear from 2.76 to 4.88, almost always with the 2800/never more. When I bought that TC, back in the late 70s, it was billed as a Trac-Action, "Dirt-Jerker 2800". She was built for me by a co-worker in the rebuilder plant that I worked at.
Yeah, I know; that TC is over 50 years old; but still over 20 behind me.. Kudu's to my buddy. First car it went into was a 10 year old 69 Barracuda with a fresh 225.

I just like how mine winds up and then groans into action. I can almost hear the roller clutch creaking.

Yeah so, those are my ramblings.
 
Here is my take on converters.
1) do not listen to people on the net
2) do not listen to people on the net
3) do not listen to people on the net
4) contact several converter manufactures, and give them "HONEST" info about your vehicle, and planned use. Make sure it is the manufacturer, not the reseller.
5) unless you are just looking for "cheap" never buy an "off the shelf" converter

Just and example: I have one converter that I have used with two different engines (everything else the same). with one engine it will stall about 3200 rpm, with the other engine it will stall about 4,000 rpm. Different cubes, different torque input, different stall.
 
Here is my take on converters.
1) do not listen to people on the net
2) do not listen to people on the net
3) do not listen to people on the net
4) contact several converter manufactures, and give them "HONEST" info about your vehicle, and planned use. Make sure it is the manufacturer, not the reseller.
5) unless you are just looking for "cheap" never buy an "off the shelf" converter

Just and example: I have one converter that I have used with two different engines (everything else the same). with one engine it will stall about 3200 rpm, with the other engine it will stall about 4,000 rpm. Different cubes, different torque input, different stall.
I've pretty much always preached the same Charlie since I joined in 2007. Also, just because my Jetaway 3500 perfect for my car, doesn't mean it will work worth a damn in your cars, unless your car is identical to mine in everyway. JMHO
 
The stall speed is DIRECTLY related to the engine torque. A bigger engine makes more tq & the stall speed will occur at a higher rpm compared to the SAME c'ter used in a smaller engine.
 
Here is my take on converters.
1) do not listen to people on the net
2) do not listen to people on the net
3) do not listen to people on the net
4) contact several converter manufactures, and give them "HONEST" info about your vehicle, and planned use. Make sure it is the manufacturer, not the reseller.
5) unless you are just looking for "cheap" never buy an "off the shelf" converter

Just and example: I have one converter that I have used with two different engines (everything else the same). with one engine it will stall about 3200 rpm, with the other engine it will stall about 4,000 rpm. Different cubes, different torque input, different stall.
Where do you get your slant 6 converters, Charlie?
 
I have used Edge Racing Converters for most of my slant six converters. Andre has treated me real good. However I just looked for a link and couldn't find one. I haven't bought one in several years. I have Andre's phone number. I'll try it later today and see if it is still good.
I also have a FTI converter but haven't used it yet. Project got stalled. FTIPerformance FTI is only about 1/2 hour to 45 min from me and they have a good reputation, also. so figured I'd try them. That would save shipping for adjustments, as I wasn't sure exactly what I needed.
EDIT: https://edgeracingconverters.com/
 
I have used Edge Racing Converters for most of my slant six converters. Andre has treated me real good. However I just looked for a link and couldn't find one. I haven't bought one in several years. I have Andre's phone number. I'll try it later today and see if it is still good.
I also have a FTI converter but haven't used it yet. Project got stalled. FTIPerformance FTI is only about 1/2 hour to 45 min from me and they have a good reputation, also. so figured I'd try them. That would save shipping for adjustments, as I wasn't sure exactly what I needed.
Edge was bought out by Precision of New Hampton. They still sell the Edge converters under the Edge name through Precision.
 
Edge was bought out by Precision of New Hampton. They still sell the Edge converters under the Edge name through Precision.
That is incorrect. I recently spoke to Andre, and he told me, that he still owns Edge racing converters. Precision just poched the name.
PS: They can no longer build the "hybrid" 904 converters. These are the converters that have the small crank pilot (1967 down engine), and the large splines (1968 up trans).
Here is the correct contact info for Edge. https://edgeracingconverters.com/
 

That is incorrect. I recently spoke to Andre, and he told me, that he still owns Edge racing converters. Precision just poched the name.
PS: They can no longer build the "hybrid" 904 converters. These are the converters that have the small crank pilot (1967 down engine), and the large splines (1968 up trans).
Here is the correct contact info for Edge. https://edgeracingconverters.com/
Thanks for the correction, Charlie!
 
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