906 head capabilities?

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MOPARMAGA said:
Okay, yeah I agree but heavy valves bounce with weak spring pressures that could hit the piston on the way up and boink the rocker and bend pushrods
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I’m aware. And I agree completely. But I was assuming it hadn’t rpm’d much and **** hit the fan. I guess I’m assuming that.
 
I was going to reply, but a 284 @ 050 cam for a 470 CI 'street' car is just so ridiculous........
 
Bewy said:
I was going to reply, but a 284 @ 050 cam for a 470 CI 'street' car is just so ridiculous........
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It's a 4 speed car, gear it up to 4:56 and run it .
I have a 470 with 264-268 @ .050 and that cam is way to small for my engine
 
MOPARMAGA said:
I'll pm you about the charger soon I got a 85 duster and wanna build a real fast car
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Step one.
(My buddy built this one in my two stall garage. My Tina is in the background (high nines).
The B1 powered charger was much faster.

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Is the OP “SURE” the cam card he posted is the cam that’s actually in the motor?

If so, the 924 springs aren’t at all suitable…….but I also agree the cam is a big mismatch for the combo.

Step one should be have the heads set up properly for whatever actual cam is in the motor.

IMO, the talk about going to 906 heads is pointless.
It’s easier to correct the problems with the current heads then start in with a new can of worms reworking some 50+ year old factory stuff.
 
PRH said:
Is the OP “SURE” the cam card he posted is the cam that’s actually in the motor?

If so, the 924 springs aren’t at all suitable…….but I also agree the cam is a big mismatch for the combo.

Step one should be have the heads set up properly for whatever actual cam is in the motor.

IMO, the talk about going to 906 heads is pointless.
It’s easier to correct the problems with the current heads then start in with a new can of worms reworking some 50+ year old factory stuff.
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That's basically what I said but I got a red x
 
PRH said:
Is the OP “SURE” the cam card he posted is the cam that’s actually in the motor?

If so, the 924 springs aren’t at all suitable…….but I also agree the cam is a big mismatch for the combo.

Step one should be have the heads set up properly for whatever actual cam is in the motor.

IMO, the talk about going to 906 heads is pointless.
It’s easier to correct the problems with the current heads then start in with a new can of worms reworking some 50+ year old factory stuff.
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When I bought the combo it was a complete short block with the heads on the side. I pulled the cam, got the grind number on the rear of the cam and spoke with Comp who sent me the cam card
 
I plan on heading to the garage on Sunday or Monday and I’ll be able to measure everything listed and find out where I went wrong. I just thought about scrapping these heads because they are knock offs and have been difficult to find the right parts for them
 
Do you have 1.5 or 1.6 rockers?

Do you have a way to measure the net lift at the valve after lash?

That cam has enough duration, ramp speed, and lsa so that valve to piston clearance should be verified.
 
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PRH said:
Do you have 1.5 or 1.6 rockers?

Do you have a way to measure the net lift at the valve after lash?

That cam has enough duration, ramp speed, and lsa so that valve to piston clearance should be verified.
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1.5 rockers.

That is something I have never done. I have a couple different mics, calipers and a dial indicator with mag base?

I plan on hitting it with clay on either Sunday or Monday when I head over there.
 
A piece of angle iron about a foot long or so, drill a couple holes in it so you can bolt it to the exhaust side of the head………works great as a place to mount the mag base for the dial indicator…….for checking actual valve lift.

Do you know the history of the heads?
Bought new, fairly recently as assemblies…..or bare heads?
The reason I ask is, when those first came out……some places sold them with long BBC valves in them, which were .250” or so too long.
The correct length is:
5.350” intake
5.375” exhaust


Some related reading:
Some Pro Comp "Victor" stuff.....
 
PRH said:
A piece of angle iron about a foot long or so, drill a couple holes in it so you can bolt it to the exhaust side of the head………works great as a place to mount the mag base for the dial indicator…….for checking actual valve lift.

Do you know the history of the heads?
Bought new, fairly recently as assemblies…..or bare heads?
The reason I ask is, when those first came out……some places sold them with long BBC valves in them, which were .250” or so too long.
The correct length is:
5.350” intake
5.375” exhaust


Some related reading:
Some Pro Comp "Victor" stuff.....
Click to expand...
I don’t know the history of the heads. I bought them together with the short block and the springs were included. They were supposedly new and looked it. They did have 440source offset rockers but they actually cracked and that’s why I ordered Harland sharps.
 
Send them to Porter, he's worked with the Victor copy.
OOTB flow #'s are less than stellar
 
Honestly, I’d suggest bringing the heads to a shop known for quality head work, and have them gone over and set up for your cam.

Are they the CNC ported version, or unported?
 
PRH said:
Honestly, I’d suggest bringing the heads to a shop known for quality head work, and have them gone over and set up for your cam.

Are they the CNC ported version, or unported?
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Unfortunately with the wife not working and child I’m trying to keep it somewhat budget friendly. I’m not sure on which version they are
 
Csommers said:
Unfortunately with the wife not working and child I’m trying to keep it somewhat budget friendly. I’m not sure on which version they are
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Again a few pictures would help us help you. We love pictures as it helps those trying to help YOU jobs easier. Lots of smart helpful guys on this site. You may not like everything you hear but it will save you grief and money. This is about the easiest site that I’m part of to post pictures. No resizing and no upside down pictures like Moparts.
 
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pittsburghracer said:
Again a few pictures would help us tell you. We love pictures as it helps those trying to help YOU jobs easier. Lots of smart helpful guys on this site. You may not like everything you hear but it will save you grief and money. This is about the easiest site that I’m part of to post pictures. No resizing and no upside down pictures like Moparts.
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No problem I appreciate any and all advice, criticism and sarcasm. I don’t have the car at the house so when I run over to my garage Monday I’ll get a bunch of pictures
 
PRH said:
A piece of angle iron about a foot long or so, drill a couple holes in it so you can bolt it to the exhaust side of the head………works great as a place to mount the mag base for the dial indicator…….for checking actual valve lift.

Do you know the history of the heads?
Bought new, fairly recently as assemblies…..or bare heads?
The reason I ask is, when those first came out……some places sold them with long BBC valves in them, which were .250” or so too long.
The correct length is:
5.350” intake
5.375” exhaust


Some related reading:
Some Pro Comp "Victor" stuff.....
Click to expand...
Nice job on those heads in moparts by the way, much respect.
 
Csommers said:
No problem I appreciate any and all advice, criticism and sarcasm. I don’t have the car at the house so when I run over to my garage Monday I’ll get a bunch of pictures
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You'll definitely get all of above lol
 
Csommers said:
Unfortunately with the wife not working and child I’m trying to keep it somewhat budget friendly. I’m not sure on which version they are
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Get on youtube and look at some of @318willrun's videos. He's got some nice videos on how to shadetree blend bowls and have it turn out really nice. That's about 75% or more of port work right there and you can do it yourself. I would go ahead and subscribe to his channel too. He's a good dude with lots of good info.
 
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