A little bench racing

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MomsDuster

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I want to pose a question. Based on the Draggy info below, if I was to put D.O.T. drag radials on the car instead of the Cooper Cobras how much improvement might I expect in my 60’, 1/8, and 1/4 mile times?

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I will say this: if you want to go faster at the strip, a good set of tires (and maybe extra wheels to put them on) will make the biggest difference for the money. (Short of a nitrous setup). Cheap used slicks, and cheap wheels will give the same result for less money.
Agree with above.... very solid twelve, and a 1.something 60 ft.
 
I agree with all of the above, get some good slicks and at 106mph you should be in the low to mid 12's. I was running 12.3's in my 70 Dart with 3:91 gears and MT pro bracket radials at 106mph with a 1.64-1.66 sixty foot time
 
I will say this: if you want to go faster at the strip, a good set of tires (and maybe extra wheels to put them on) will make the biggest difference for the money. (Short of a nitrous setup). Cheap used slicks, and cheap wheels will give the same result for less money.
Agree with above.... very solid twelve, and a 1.something 60 ft.
Yeah, looks as though that’s going to have to be the next upgrade. I’ve been tuning this thing for overall drivability/performance. And it seems that the better it runs the slower it goes, especially 60’ times LOL.
 
2.24 60 ft. If you improve that to 1.99, two and a half tenths there will likely show up as almost 4-5 tenths in the eighth, and maybe six tenths in the quarter. You can do the math.
 
General rule 1 on the bottom will yield two on the top.

If you are spinning or not launching as hard as you can, there is time on the table. With a 2.24 60ft time, you have a lot to gain. Easily a half a second in the quarter
 
sometimes when the car isn’t hooking, the added wheel speed can hide issues that will arise when the car hooks and wheelspeed dissapears.
Convertor then becomes more of a factor, as well as breakage regards anything that isn’t up to snuff.
 
sometimes when the car isn’t hooking, the added wheel speed can hide issues that will arise when the car hooks and wheelspeed dissapears.
Convertor then becomes more of a factor, as well as breakage regards anything that isn’t up to snuff.
Biggest reason for tires next. Get it to hook better, then I can move forward in getting it dialed in.
 
General rule 1 on the bottom will yield two on the top.

If you are spinning or not launching as hard as you can, there is time on the table. With a 2.24 60ft time, you have a lot to gain. Easily a half a second in the quarter
I’m doing both, having to roll into the throttle to minimize spinning, it still spins but not completely up in smoke like it is when I just put it to the wood.
 
well from off the trailer at 12.20 to 11.80 after playing with tire pressure on bfg drag radials in the 1/4 .
 
I love my Dragy. Last trip to the track, I took it with me so I could compare to my time slips. It is very, very close most of the time.
 
I’m doing both, having to roll into the throttle to minimize spinning, it still spins but not completely up in smoke like it is when I just put it to the wood.
Cobras are good tires, nice looking, better than t/a radials. But they aren't drag tires. But drag radials aren't going to last long on the street.
How much actual track time do you plan on? I'd try to get some nine inch slicks, used, from a stock eliminator racer that aren't fast enough anymore, throw them on some junkyard 15x7 steelies, and swap em on at the track.
 
Cobras are good tires, nice looking, better than t/a radials. But they aren't drag tires. But drag radials aren't going to last long on the street.
How much actual track time do you plan on? I'd try to get some nine inch slicks, used, from a stock eliminator racer that aren't fast enough anymore, throw them on some junkyard 15x7 steelies, and swap em on at the track.
Not really planning n a whole lot of track time. Probably once or twice to get it dialed in. (Get that time slip) Really just want to get it all right. It’s a cruiser, but I want to be able to know what it’s capable of, ( I constantly get asked what it runs) and play around from time to time. Will definitely grab a pair of steel wheels for play time.
 
Ok folks, another what do ya think question. Curious as to where you would shift this turd at? I realize I don’t have the optimum combination but working with what I have.

440 stock bottom end, forged crank, stock rods, pistons. Unverified CR guessing 9.5ish. 180 cranking compression.

For the sake of argument, stock 915 heads. Was told they were “mildly ported and the chambers cleaned up”.

Comp XE 275 HL with 1.6 rockers and B3E geometry correction. Pic of cam card

8DBA5161-6007-4508-B3B5-F5D6BC7C39BE.jpeg


Schumacher headers

Weiand tunnel ram 2 750dp w/annular boosters.

727 3k +\- stall

Dana 60 w/3.23

3500 lbs w/my lard *** in the seat and full tank of fuel.

I’ve been shifting @ 6k, curious if maybe shifting at say 5k would possibly have any benefit? Just thinking out loud, killing time in my head.
 
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Ok folks, another what do ya think question. Curious as to where you would shift this turd at? I realize I don’t have the optimum combination but working with what I have.

440 stock bottom end, forged crank, stock rods, pistons. Unverified CR guessing 9.5ish. 180 cranking compression.

For the sake of argument, stock 915 heads. Was told they were “mildly ported and the chambers cleaned up”.

Comp XE 275 HL with 1.6 rockers and B3E geometry correction. Pic of cam card

View attachment 1716052389

Schumacher headers

Weiand tunnel ram 2 750dp w/annular boosters.

727 3k +\- stall

Dana 60 w/3.23

I’ve been shifting @ 6k, curious if maybe shifting at say 5k would possibly have any benefit? Just thinking out loud, killing time in my head.
What RPM are you at going through the traps? That combo is screaming for more gear(just a personal observation, not pertinent to your current question)

How does it feel shifting at 6k? Still pulling hard?
 
What RPM are you at going through the traps? That combo is screaming for more gear(just a personal observation, not pertinent to your current question)

How does it feel shifting at 6k? Still pulling hard?
I agree on the gear, I cruise this thing all over Nor Cal so the 3.73’s that were in it were just too much at a 70mph cruise so the 3.23’s are a compromise for sure. As for trap rpm I honestly haven’t looked. Next time out I’ll definitely try to make note of that. So far all my runs have been on county backroads with a Draggy. It feels good at 6k but certainly not as set back in the seat like at lower rpm’s.
 
I agree on the gear, I cruise this thing all over Nor Cal so the 3.73’s that were in it were just too much at a 70mph cruise so the 3.23’s are a compromise for sure. As for trap rpm I honestly haven’t looked. Next time out I’ll definitely try to make note of that. So far all my runs have been on county backroads with a Draggy. It feels good at 6k but certainly not as set back in the seat like at lower rpm’s.
I just realized your location, my mom is in woodland, and I feel your pain on the gear compromise. People go 70mph even on back roads up there.

Next time you are out try shifting at 5.5k and report back, you never know where the sweet spot is.
 
Would lowering tire pressure on a street tire have a positive effect on launch? Say from 35psi down to 25-30 or is that more of a drag radial/slick thing?
 
Would lowering tire pressure on a street tire have a positive effect on launch? Say from 35psi down to 25-30 or is that more of a drag radial/slick thing?
No, the same applies to a street tire, or even off-road. What is your current psi in the rear tires?

Pump the front tires up to their max pressure, and play with 26-28 psi in the rear. If you are really at 35, I’d imagine a drastic improvement will be noticed.
 
I want to add I don’t personally recommend going lower than 25 psi on a street tire, and it’s only for testing purposes. I recommend you air back up to spec before you do any highway driving.
 
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