Discussion in 'Manual Transmission & Clutch Discussions' started by clifftt, Dec 12, 2017.
That's a pretty nice bench. First thing I figured was it would make a damn nice reloading bench.
All good points, just never seen it.
The problem is not in the detent. The problem is in the reverse “shoe”. The reverse shoe and 1-2 shift arm are matched to prevent the box from going into more than one gear at a time. There are 2 shoulder bolts that go into 2 tight holes in the side cover. These align the cover very precisely. Find the 2 shoulder bolts and put them where they go, I think they are in the center on the short sides of the cover. The worse scenario is someone put the 4 speed together with mismatched parts.
the fix is, as has been said, loosen the bolts, tap the cover up, tighten bolts! I had the opposite problem-she would pop out of reverse-loosen bolts, tap cover down, tighten bolts
Wow, thanks for the wealth of opinions. The tranny was working fine when I picked up this car. Since I went into overhaul mode, I had a very reputable shop in town (owner had been involved in Mopar drag cars for years) tear it down, look it over, and reseal the tranny. He found no problems with it. No parts were replaced, other than some gasket seal kit, so no mismatched parts as 66fs suggested. (In retrospect, should of left it alone.) Thank you for the explanation. When I loosened and tightened the side cover, I tapped the cover upward without knowing what I was supposed to accomplish. It didn’t move upward at all. Then I tightened it. Next time, I will retry and hopefully find that sweet spot where the side cover and shoulder bolts line up.
I'm sure it was either you or triple-r that told me to do that and bazzinga! That was a couple/few years ago and still a GREAT memory.
8 ×32" ! I can't think of much I couldn't do on it... The front edge was all cheddared and covered up with ducktape. Today I sanded it, cleaned it, oiled it, and wiped it clean. It looks good.
OK, pretty frustrated now. Have done this four times, loosen ALL bolts about an eighth of an inch to where the fluid is coming out. I have punched UP the cover with a rubber mallet and I’ve punched UP the cover using the mallet on a punch. I don’t hear a “magic”click or anything. I’ve loosened the cover, put it in reverse, tightened the bolts. I check it and find that it is locked into reverse. I pound it into neutral with a mallet, then get 12-15 good shifts thru all gears before it locks, ONCE AGAIN, into reverse. Maybe I need to completely pop off the cover to reset it? Not sure I have enough room, this is an early A body, maybe the tranny needs to come out? Shit, I hope not, PITA!!
Also, 66fs, the two middle outside bolts are shoulder bolts. The last time, I tightened those before tightening the corner bolts, thinking it would reset/reposition the cover. Didn’t work. One last thing: If I sit and shift continuously, I can go through the gears pretty well. If I leave it in reverse for more than 30 seconds or so, it gets locked in reverse. It has done this a number of times. For what that’s worth...
Been following along, cause I`m going through the same crap with a gearbox sold to me by a member years ago. In addition the hurst shifter seems to go out of alignment by itself, how this is even possible? Hope we both come up with a fix without a major rebuild, but I don`t think I`ll be that lucky.
Found this on YouTube this morning. Unfortunately, I have to run up to a wedding this afternoon, won’t be back until tomorrow. At 12:15, the elf explains how to adjust the cover. (LOL, this filmstrip reminds me of sixth grade sex ed back in the day!)
Hang on, when you push the cover up........ it has to stay up. Ok so now Part one; external First; make sure the clutch is NOT dragging Second; make sure, engaging reverse with the stick is over to the left and UP! away from you. Third; make sure the reverse link rod is not getting stuck on any other part of the linkages. You know, cotterpins, or the adjacent swivel, or the link-rod is rubbing on the case,and such. Fourth; make sure the external lever is not over-centering because it is on backwards or because it's the wrong lever. THEN Part two; internal put the trans in Neutral disconnect that link-rod from the trans lever. Shift the reverse lever in and out, sorta gently,attempting to feel resistance. The first time in, the teeth might butt up against each other, so don't count it. But from that point on it should snick in and out nicely. If it does then the problem is NOT in the interlock, and not the detent, so go back to part one. But if it is still sticky, then drain about half the oil and then back off the reverse detent plug, and repeat the shift test. If now it is free then then lets go after the why of that. The first thing to do is to fish that ball outta there and measure it. IIRC it is supposed to be 3/8 inch. A too-small ball can jam up the internal comb if it comes out to far down there. The next thing is to make sure there is exactly ONE gasket on the whatchamacallit spring-tube, and last;make sure the spring is not crippled somehow. But if it is still sticky; Now the cover bolts have to come out,so drain the rest of the oil. Then remove all but the two beside the reverse lever on the horizontal run. Once all the shouldered bolts are out,loosen the last two plain bolts just a smidge, enough to bop the cover up. It will now move quite a ways. Keep it up and tighten those two enough to keep the cover up. Then try the reverse lever again, now with the reverse detent plug completely off. Ok now we have eliminated the interloc, the detent, and all external possible sources. If it is still sticky then there is only one thing left; the gear is sticking on the shaft, or the shift-fork is sticking in it's boss; and there is only one cure..... complete tear down, to find the reason why. Ok, I think I covered it all, so good luck. Well I thought of one more but if no parts were changed, it's irrelevant,lol.
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