A833 od 4 speed abuse

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dodge71demon

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Planing a project for next winter and will be using the A833 Overdrive 4 speed behind a stock 318.Just wondering how much abuse it will take It will be just a daily driver and don't plan on beating on it (Have a 71 Demon for that) but you all know what happens when you have that 3rd pedal
 
IMO, I would not be beating on that tranny since theres a slight difference on where the final drive gear ride.....not on the main shaft for strength like the regular 4spd (833) has it set up.
 
I think if you treat it as a "3 speed with a cruising gear" you will be OK.

I guess you realize that "4th" gear is REALLY "3rd" gear, so in the OD gear you are putting stress on the just about everything--the gear on the rear of the clutch pinion, the cluster, and the side forces on the mainshaft caused by the travel through the cluster to "3rd" gear.

While shifting up through the gears does the same thing, here you are causing this stress for miles and miles and miles.

Also, in OK, there is an RPM difference between the input pinion and the mainshaft, so there's more stress on those bearings.
 
If you get a cast iron case unit (1 year only I believe) they will hold up fine to beatin with a stock or warm 318. The difference in cast iron and aluminum cases is where the counter shaft rides on the case. The aluminum case is very common to fail and gall where the countershaft rides......since the unbushed counter shaft turns in high gear (unlike a standard 833) it is subject to more wear. You can have the aluminum case bushed and that will fix it. The cast iron case is almost bulletproof in this area, cause it's cast iron. I think that's what rumblefish was referring to...and he's dead nuts right.....again. However, if you want to invest a little bit, Passon Performance can supply you with parts to make one live behind a blown and injected Hemi if that's what you wanna do.
 
If you get a cast iron case unit (1 year only I believe) they will hold up fine to beatin with a stock or warm 318. The difference in cast iron and aluminum cases is where the counter shaft rides on the case. The aluminum case is very common to fail and gall where the countershaft rides......since the unbushed counter shaft turns in high gear (unlike a standard 833) it is subject to more wear. You can have the aluminum case bushed and that will fix it. The cast iron case is almost bulletproof in this area, cause it's cast iron. I think that's what rumblefish was referring to...and he's dead nuts right.....again. However, if you want to invest a little bit, Passon Performance can supply you with parts to make one live behind a blown and injected Hemi if that's what you wanna do.

I plan on building the car for economy and I have the aluminum case OD already behind a /6 in the car and will be putting in a 318.Never got stupid with the slant because it's a slant but I know I will not be able to resist having the 3rd pedal with a V8.I also have either a 998 or 999 lock up automatic.I'm setting up to use either one when the time comes.I'll check into Passon------thanks
 
No problem.....either way, I would have that transmission case bushed on the counter shaft bores. It's good insurance.......even if you stuck with the slant, but especially with a V8.
 
I pulled an A833OD from a D100 that had over 100,000 miles on it. I put another 26,000 miles on it behind a built slant 6 and for the last 41,000 miles it's been behind a stout 360 (370 HP). I have not babied it at all with frequent burn outs and spirited shifting. It has held up just fine. You will be fine with it behind a 318.
 
Back from the dead...
I have a '79 B100 with a stock teener 2-bbl and an A833OD that is original to the vehicle.
Since they made them this way, and since your car is a lot lighter than my van, you should be fine. I have also heard they put this trans behind the 360 2-bbl in F-Bodies when that engine was optional for those cars.
As was stated, these transmissions are not as stout as their cast iron non-OD counterparts, but they are very good, durable units.
IMHO, an aluminum A833OD is the trans for MPG in a Slant or stock teener that you plan on using as a daily, and not beating on too much.
Conversely, the original cast-iron A833 non-OD is the one to have behind a hot Slant or LA that you want to bang gears and burn rubber in.
 
Hang on man
I beat the crap out of that od box, with a very stout 400hp 367, never holding back, with an aluminum case even;

For street use, the only weak part in that box,
IMO,
is the M/S overdrive gear because of the very small contact patch between it and the cluster teeth. I broke a few of those, simply by forgetting she was a 3+1; and going into od with a bit too much gusto..... lol.
Well, I suppose the short-tail 904-sized M/S could also be a weak link, but you don't have to run it, that was a slanty shaft.

"They" say the Alloy case has a tendency to waller out the front cluster-pin hole. Well my od gear never lasted long enough to find out. lol. But eventually, cause I was piling up spare alloy boxes, I took one of them to a machine shop and had them install a steel front pin carrier, just in case "they" were right.
After four or five years, I switched to a Commando gear set, and installed it into a Passon alloy box, just because. I still have the bushed alloy box with an OD gearset in it, gathering dust on the shelf, with so many other, also-rans.
 
don't plan on beating on it (Have a 71 Demon for that) but you all know what happens when you have that 3rd pedal
The stock 318 cannot hurt one thru three, unless the box is already compromised.
In addition to banging that box with my 367; I also ran that same box for about three winters behind my 8/1Scr, 318 that had nothing but a TQ and the TTIs from the 367 and some decent valve-springs that allowed at least 5500rpm. And I banged it all winter, the first one with a CenterForce clutch with a CF-II disc. And at least one winter with the GVod behind it, what a hoot that was; Seven usable gears by Gear-Splitting.
I am not known for being kind to my junk. If it breaks, I have other and spare junk, or I just fix it.
But, you HAVE to be kind to that overdrive gear. Yes I broke one, even with the freshened smog-era-teener.
For performance;
This box works best with about 4.10s to get Second gear where you need it. But it does pretty good with 3.91s.
For fuel economy;
My smog-318 liked even 2.76s for a Final Drive of 2.01 and 65=1630 rpm... but, at this rpm it is IMPOSSIBLE to give the 318 the cruise timing that it needs, and to still be able to drive it the rest of the time.
Here's what I mean; Make sure your vacuum advance is working, then; rev your 318 up to 1630 and keep it there while you start advancing the timing. As the rpm goes up, just bring it back. Repeat more advancing until the rpm no longer increases. At this point you have reached the sweetspot of no-load timing. Now put a light on it and see where she's at with respect to timing at 1630 rpm. You cannot hurt the engine with this procedure, so just do it.
Now, don't be surprised to see a timing number of in the 40s to possibly even into the 50s.
Lets say yours dials in at 45*. That's what it wants for optimum fuel economy, cruising at 1630 rpm. How are you gonna get it?
Typically, if you do what most guys tell you to do, which I don't necessarily agree with, your base timing will be about 16*. Your mechanical advance of a smog-era 318 distributor is pretty slow and never reaches what it should so lets say by 1630 it has dialed in 6 degrees, so that totals 22*. The Vcan if also a smog era, might bring in 9*, for a grand total of 31*. So she is short at least 14*. How are you gonna get it? There are ways, but none of them are optimal until you get a standalone timing computer. And you still have to program them.
So the point I'm trying to make is that; the lowest cruise-rpm is not always gonna get you max fuel-economy.
In my experience, a cruise-rpm of 2000 to 2200 is about as low as you can go and still be able to modify the factory distributor, to the timing that the 318 wants, which could be as high as 56*.
To cruise at 65=2200, with 27" tires will take a road gear of 2.72. With a .73od in the A833 this translates to a rear gear of 3.73s..
Your starter gear then becomes 3.73x3.09=11.53 oh yeah the 318 is gonna love that.
Your Second gear becomes 373x1.67=6.23, still in the 6s so meh, ok for your stated useage.
Your Third gear becomes 3.73x1.00=3.73, so I mean by the number it looks good. But if you try to pass a slow-poke on the hiway doing 55, your rpm is just 2550 so that is not gonna work. Downshifting into 6.23 Second will get you 4270, but your engine is already running outta steam.
So in other words, yur missing a gear.
With this box, you will forever be missing a gear because to get that overdrive, they spread the others out. You can move individual gears around by fine-tuning the rear gear, but that just puts the hole some other place.
However, for your stated use, this is not a big deal. I just wanted to respond to the " third-pedal" comment you made, lol. With 3.73s, it will mostly be fun just in First and possibly Second.
Yes you can, run a deeper rear gear, but
3.73s are already giving you a tire-burning low gear of 11.53, that will require a shift into Second pretty early. Second gear is the gear you will be in most of the time because ; 1) the low road-gear of 11.53 is pretty low, and 2) the third road-gear of 3.73 is gonna be, in the city, a cruise-only type-gear, because with it, 50mph is just 2300rpm. In fact, that 3.73 roadgear, will get you to 65=3020rpm, then overdrive drops it to 2200. I wouldda run this combo .......... but I had these 4.30s just laying around, and 65 was 2470 in od, so I said what the heck..... lol
 
I got one

... in an aluminum case

...in a truck

...behind a 10:1 440
 
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