A833 Tail shaft

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limegreen70

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So I have a 68 Bbody 4 speed, I'd like it to fit in a Abody. My Friend has a Cast Iron Abody A833OD transmission. My question is, can I swap tail shafts between the 2 units? Ik the OD transmissions are sort of a breed on their own but wanted to see if this was possible.
 
The OD gears set won't go in the standard 833. You would need to use the cluster. So you would need to use the input shaft. The input won't fit in the 833 case. Just leave the OD together. If the OD is the 30 spline main shaft the tail shaft housing can be used . Then you just need to buy a main shaft from Brewers Performance.

Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists

You are not correct. I do it all the time. You just need to swap the input bearing to a 307 and of course use the whole gear set including the cluster gear, input shaft and the rest. Some early O/D used the 307 and small bearing main case, at that point he could just swap front bearing retainers and run the O/D.

Or buy an "A" tailshaft housing and main shaft. Then sell the "B" tailshaft housing and main shaft. He is less than an hour away from Passon Performance.

 
Is there a 4.35 retainer for a 308 front bearing; so OP can reuse his BH. IDK. Back in 2001 when I tried this, I could not find one. Thankfully, the local JY had all that I needed.
So I have a 68 Bbody 4 speed, I'd like it to fit in a Abody. My Friend has a Cast Iron Abody A833OD transmission. My question is, can I swap tail shafts between the 2 units? Ik the OD transmissions are sort of a breed on their own but wanted to see if this was possible.

I'll tell you a secret; just use the longtail as is......
The longtail in my 68 Barracuda is awesome. Mine is a B/E body tail. I moved the stick back between the buckets, on a custom adapter plate I fabbed up; and up high enough to install the top shifter bolt from inside the cabin. Then I installed a really short shifter and fabricated new stiffer/longer/beefier shiftrods.
Now I can bang gears like a pro instead of like when I was a hi-school schmuck, banging knuckles on the dash. Since I did this, in lemmee think, 2004 or so, I have not missed a shift ever.
Yes the driveshaft had to be shortened, and
I had to extend the shifter hump, and the carpet didn't fit right anymore, and I had to grind off one boss from the frontmost pad which sets in, and interfered with, the T-bar Crossmember
But it was so worth it.
If you have a bench, obviously this may not work exactly as described. But, you should have buckets anyway, cuz without a good sturdy bucket, you can't do tricks. Well you can but NOT with any degree of control, or repeatability, lol.

Furthermore
a few FABO members have fabbed their own plates to move the shifter forward to the factory location. Thus the only change required was the shorter driveshaft.
BTW
yes the tail drops a lil lower than where the shorttail ends at, so if you get an incurable vibration, you can start by jacking the tail back up. Then proceed to resetting the pinion angle.
 
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Is there a 4.35 retainer for a 308 front bearing. IDK. Back in 2001 when I tried this, I could not find one.


I'll tell you a secret; just use the longtail as is......
The longtail in my 68 Barracuda is awesome. Mine is a B/E body tail. I moved the stick back between the buckets, on a custom adapter plate I fabbed up; and up high enough to install the top shifter bolt from inside the cabin. Then I installed a really short shifter and fabricated new stiffer/longer/beefier shiftrods.
Now I can bang gears like a pro instead of like when I was a hi-school schmuck, banging knuckles on the dash. Since I did this, in lemmee think, 2004 or so, I have not missed a shift ever.
Yes the driveshaft had to be shortened, and
I had to extend the shifter hump, and the carpet didn't fit right anymore, and I had to grind off one boss from the frontmost pad which sets in, and interfered with, the T-bar Crossmember
But it was so worth it.
If you have a bench, obviously this may not work exactly as described. But, you should have buckets anyway, cuz without a good sturdy bucket, you can't do tricks. Well you can but NOT with any degree of control, or repeatability, lol.

Furthermore
a few FABO members have fabbed their own plates to move the shifter forward to the factory location. Thus the only change required was the shorter driveshaft.
BTW
yes the tail drops a lil lower than where the shorttail ends at, so if you get an incurable vibration, you can start by jacking the tail back up. Then proceed to resetting the pinion angle.
Reminds me of the days of SuperShifters between the buckets. Short throw, short stick, no scraped knucles, and no missed shifts.
 
BTW, if you have a short-period cam in a 318 or a 360, the overdrive unit is a pretty good deal. You can regear the rear end to maintain a cruise rpm in the range of 2200 to 2400, and get a dynomite starter gear. Or, like I did, you can put Second gear wherever you need it to be.
The only caveat with that trans, besides the wide ratios, is the rather weak M/S od gear. You always have to keep in mind that the A833od is a 3+1 trans, and be kind to the od.
 
Is there a 4.35 retainer for a 308 front bearing; so OP can reuse his BH. IDK. Back in 2001 when I tried this, I could not find one. Thankfully, the local JY had all that I needed.


I'll tell you a secret; just use the longtail as is......
The longtail in my 68 Barracuda is awesome. Mine is a B/E body tail. I moved the stick back between the buckets, on a custom adapter plate I fabbed up; and up high enough to install the top shifter bolt from inside the cabin. Then I installed a really short shifter and fabricated new stiffer/longer/beefier shiftrods.
Now I can bang gears like a pro instead of like when I was a hi-school schmuck, banging knuckles on the dash. Since I did this, in lemmee think, 2004 or so, I have not missed a shift ever.
Yes the driveshaft had to be shortened, and
I had to extend the shifter hump, and the carpet didn't fit right anymore, and I had to grind off one boss from the frontmost pad which sets in, and interfered with, the T-bar Crossmember
But it was so worth it.
If you have a bench, obviously this may not work exactly as described. But, you should have buckets anyway, cuz without a good sturdy bucket, you can't do tricks. Well you can but NOT with any degree of control, or repeatability, lol.

Furthermore
a few FABO members have fabbed their own plates to move the shifter forward to the factory location. Thus the only change required was the shorter driveshaft.
BTW
yes the tail drops a lil lower than where the shorttail ends at, so if you get an incurable vibration, you can start by jacking the tail back up. Then proceed to resetting the pinion angle.
I do not doubt you and your intellect but part of me just doesn't have the heart to do those extra steps to get the B body Trans to work. I appreciate your reply though. Thank u
 
BTW, if you have a short-period cam in a 318 or a 360, the overdrive unit is a pretty good deal. You can regear the rear end to maintain a cruise rpm in the range of 2200 to 2400, and get a dynomite starter gear. Or, like I did, you can put Second gear wherever you need it to be.
The only caveat with that trans, besides the wide ratios, is the rather weak M/S od gear. You always have to keep in mind that the A833od is a 3+1 trans, and be kind to the od.
I had thoughts on putting the 4 speed behind my 340, car has 3:91 gears. I was told the OD unit would be terrible for such a combination.
 
I had thoughts on putting the 4 speed behind my 340, car has 3:91 gears. I was told the OD unit would be terrible for such a combination.
It all depends on what you do with your car. I've run the O/D with a Commando 273 and a souped up 170 and loved it. If you were drag racing or road racing it would not be a good choice. It is nice to be able to cruise at a decent rpm and not cobble your car up. I've even advised someone, running a 440 sixpac "B" Body how to run it and he loved it.
 
Several members here on Fabo have done this and are NOT unhappy with the od behind the 340.
I have run it behind my 11/1 360 with 3.55s, and was NOT happy at all, and eventually swapped it out.
The ratios are 3.09-1.67-1.00-.73od and
the splits are .54-.60-.73 These are about the widest ratios Mopar ever put into a passenger car trans. This trans is a low-rpm trans with a powerband requirement that is very wide, especially so from First to Second.
With 3.91s you can get away with it, but First gear is really low. I guarantee you that it will NOT be happy with any cam bigger than the factory 114LSA 340 cam, which actually has a very wide altho stunted powerband...... as compared to just about any other cam you might consider to put in a street-340.
Yes, in your case; and if you already had it or could get one cheap, I would try it.
 
FWIW, a '68 B trans surely won't have the E shift adapter bosses for the adapter.

A while back I picked up this Ram Rod with a cut down B-body mount, said to come out of a A-body with B trans. Not sure where it actually places the shifter in a A-body.

1675092984810.png
 
Several members here on Fabo have done this and are NOT unhappy with the od behind the 340.
I have run it behind my 11/1 360 with 3.55s, and was NOT happy at all, and eventually swapped it out.
The ratios are 3.09-1.67-1.00-.73od and
the splits are .54-.60-.73 These are about the widest ratios Mopar ever put into a passenger car trans. This trans is a low-rpm trans with a powerband requirement that is very wide, especially so from First to Second.
With 3.91s you can get away with it, but First gear is really low. I guarantee you that it will NOT be happy with any cam bigger than the factory 114LSA 340 cam, which actually has a very wide altho stunted powerband...... as compared to just about any other cam you might consider to put in a street-340.
Yes, in your case; and if you already had it or could get one cheap, I would try it.

I am more than a little amused, having run them with small cu in motors, and loving them. I know you are running a 360 and 8 speeds. Driving on the street in one of my cars, the O/D is not a low rpm trans since both little engines will easily rev past 6,000 rpm smooth as silk. The splits do seem too wide to me, but I can't remember the rpm drop at the shifts. However, like my engines they are not stock or slapped together. But they look stock.
 
Maybe I said that wrong;
They are low rpm transmissions cuz on the 1-2 shift, the Rs fall to 54%. So then, shifting at;
4000, the Rs fall to 2160, for a powerband requirement of 1840
5000, the Rs fall to 2700, for a powerband requirement of 2300
6000, the Rs fall to 3240, for a powerband requirement of 2760
7000, the Rs fall to 3780, for a powerband requirement of 3220
There is no factory SBM, normally-aspirated, with a powerband of 3220. At BEST, you can expect 2000 rpm, and more often than not, closer to 1500.
Therefore, the A833od is, a low-rpm trans.
As you know, the 340, even the hi-compression version, never had a bottom end to brag about, so if you install a 7000 rpm cam into it, without a corresponding increase in compression ratio, the cylinder pressure will go away, and with it goes the bottom end. Asking that big cam engine to pull from 3780 to 7000 is to drag the average power right into the basement.
Whereas,
if you put a low-rpm cam into it, the cylinder pressure will go up; and now you have more low rpm power, and so the powerband requirement becomes more bearable.

However, the biggest problem with that trans is not just the 1-2 shift, but trying to put Second gear where you need it to be, without getting into Third/Direct too soon.
Most of the life of a streeter is spent in Second gear, so I want that gear to work for me.
After 5 decades of driving A833s;
I like my second gear to run from 30/35 mph to 55/60mph. With 27" tires,
From 35 to 55 is 63.6% so my powerband has to fit into that range.
and I like to be wound up tight by 65
This will take a Roadgear of 8.00.. With the
8.00Roadgear; 30 will be 2990, and 60 will be 5980, and 65 is 6480
Now, how do you get 8.00Roadgear with this A833od?
To get it in Second gear is 8.00/1.67=-------4.79 rear gear
to get it in First gear is 8.00/3.09=--------------2.59 rear gear.
IMO, this is a nearly insurmountable problem.

Your Mopar Second gear choices are 1.92, 1.77, and 1.67; there are no others. So then; 8.00/1.92=4.17 rear, and 8.00/1.77=4.52rear

OP has 3.91s; so 8.00/3.91=2.05; the closest Second gear is the 1.92.
With OP's 3.91s, 27s, and the A833od; 30mph =2440 in Second gear, and 60=4880, soooo this is a low-rpm engine. If your 340 is typical for stock, it will power-peak at about 5000.
I think Second gear will be a pretty good match.
And that is why I said;
in your case; and if you already had it or could get one cheap, I would try it.
As you can see I am not, repeat, NOT, arguing against the A833od in this case.

Now lets talk about the other gears.
The starter gear is 3.91 x 3.09=12.08.. This is 10 to 20/25 percent more than the 340 Duster needs on the street.
The cruiser gear is 3.91 x .73=2.85 and 65=2310/perfect
Direct is 3.91 x 1.00=3.91, and 55=2700, so a 340 might have to shift into Second to pass a slowpoke, and then; 55 in Second=4470/ perfect , SOooo, all-in-all, not that bad a match.
In this case, with the 3.91s, the biggest handicap is the 1-2 shift.
My experience:
To me, with 3.55s, revving it out to 4000/29mph in First, to get into Second at 2160/29mph, was just too much like a Mustang, I really despised that. I had a hi-pressure 360, which actually pulled pretty hard from 2160, but
not
hard
enough.
After two or three summers of suffering, I swapped that trans out.
Besides that, I kept breaking them. Two of them shattered the tiny overdrive gear. In a third one My 367 ripped all the input teeth off.
I was done with it.
OP;
Whatever you decide
Happy HotRodding.
 
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I know you love to crank out numbers. In driving my cars the first gear really does not matter. It is just getting you started. Power bands in 273s and 340s turn on around 3,000 rpm, up till then they feel like a normal engine. Once in the power band power shifts drop about 1,000 rpm between gears. I don't power shift into O/D, by then I'm going way too fast. Your numbers do not add up from what I see in my car. And I'm driving small engines. Growing up with these cars 3.23 was considered the best all around gear. 3.91 and lower if you wanted to drag race, and 2.76 if you were going in a trip. With the O/D, I can run 3.91 gears and cruise like I had 2.76 highway gears. And I can use my Hurst shifter and linkage, except for the 3-4 rod and arm. Nothing else changes. I also don't run the aluminum case. I swap it out for a cast iron main housing so it fits where any 4 speed goes. The biggest problem is wheelspin in first gear since 3.91 x 3.09 gives almost 12 x torque multiplication. Like I said in the beginning, I'm not drag racing or road racing where I need to be in a narrow power band. I don't need 8 speeds, These cars are just fine the way they were.
 
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OD are sort of like skipping a gear between shifts. You will need plenty of torque for any performance. Here is what I think where the difference in opinion comes in. If you live in a flat state you may like the OD trans. But here in the hills of Pa. those OD transmissions really suck.
I put a OD in a 440 B-body that I took from a truck. It lasted about 45 minutes before it sounded like marbles in a tin can after some hard gear changes. I do not believe they were built for abuse of a performance engine. If you want to granny your car around to cruise meets or shows I would say good choice for economy. But that defeats the purpose of driving a old performance car for the feel of what they were.

It would be like taking a turbo 400 trans and 390 gears out of your GTO and installing a power glide and 308 gears. Just doesn't make sense to me.
 
... I put a OD in a 440 B-body that I took from a truck. It lasted about 45 minutes before it sounded like marbles in a tin can after some hard gear changes. I do not believe they were built for abuse of a performance engine. If you want to granny your car around to cruise meets or shows I would say good choice for economy. But that defeats the purpose of driving a old performance car for the feel of what they were...

Wow, you put a slant six O/D behind a 440 B-Body and it didn't last? Did you do anything to that aluminum main housing and cast gears or just pull it and run it? They didn't last behind a 225. Were the gears splits too much for your 440? My cars are not show cruisers, or putters. Nothing gets shifted below 3,000 rpm. No real differences between the early A/F-Body O/D transmissions compared to standard A833 transmissions except gear ratios, so not sure why people think they would be only for low performance use. Now, some of those truck O/D transmissions were so cheap, the only parts salvageable in my mind were the main shaft and the B/E-Body tailhousing. I have only had a few of them as I have no need for B/E body stuff.
 
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