A904 Cooler lines with 5.9 Magnum- like a demented puzzle?

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MRGTX

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Ok... I'm back with another novice question for the forum-

Is it possible to install the stock transmission cooler lines while the engine and transmission are in the car...or am I just some kind of idiot...or both? :D

Because there is a sharp bend at the end that connects to the radiator, it seems that the lines will have to be snaked through from the front but so far, it appears that the various bends in the line make it geometrically impossible to fit over the K-Member and over the steering. :banghead:

I removed the clip so that I could work them through one at a time but I still get jammed up next to the oil pan.

I'd really prefer to do this without disassembling the steering but it's looking like I might have to... Before I do this, can anyone confirm that it can be done without taking anything else apart?

If so, am I doing this wrong?

Thanks for any tips!

-Mike
 
I haven't tried installing any with everything in place but have you tried bending the lines to get them snaked through then bend them back to where they need to be? A lot of the time you need to tweak them anyway because their not always bent exactly right. I'd sure try that before I took any major components off.
 
I installed mine with the 727 in my 340 duster after the engine and tranny were installed don't remember any real problem
 
I did my 73 Satellite last year.

I used "fine lines" brand IIRC, and there was a difference in the bends that made the one that was tight to the trans, now go under the linkage, and the right/left connections on the rad were swapped.

I can only guess they made those changes make installation easier, and even then it was kinda challenging.

I had to fish one back out and go from the other direction.

Didn't have to remove anything though.
 
I haven't tried installing any with everything in place but have you tried bending the lines to get them snaked through then bend them back to where they need to be? A lot of the time you need to tweak them anyway because their not always bent exactly right. I'd sure try that before I took any major components off.

This isn't a bad idea. I may go this route... Thanks!

I installed mine with the 727 in my 340 duster after the engine and tranny were installed don't remember any real problem

This is promising. Sometimes a bit of optimism is all it takes. :)


So if I didn't go the tube-bending route and if I just can't fit the parts together, are braided steel lines a viable option? Has anyone gone this route? If so, where do you hang them?
 
On some models you can lift the radiator a few inches and shoot the lines in from the front of the car.
When I make my own lines I make them in 4 pieces with compression unions to make them up under the car. I skin majority of the metal lines with neoprene fuel hose and stagger the union locations a few inches. This makes getting wrenches on them much easier.
 
On some models you can lift the radiator a few inches and shoot the lines in from the front of the car.
When I make my own lines I make them in 4 pieces with compression unions to make them up under the car. I skin majority of the metal lines with neoprene fuel hose and stagger the union locations a few inches. This makes getting wrenches on them much easier.

Good tip. I'll take a look and see if pulling the radiator and working from that angle might help!

Otherwise, the idea of having them in multiple sections sounds like a great idea assuming the additional failure points don't become an issue.

Thanks!

So any thoughts on the braded steel lines? This seems like the easiest solution unless there is something I'm not considering...I have to guess there is a reason that people don't do this. The problem of securing them to the car comes to mind.
 
So, I used the "4ft" and "5ft" 51" and 58" pre-made steel line w/ fittings from o'rielly's, did as few bends as possible, easy to bend by hand, the ones I did do were as lazy as could be, mock it up with wire to get length at the bends. Ran straight down the frame rail, rubber hose to cooler out front. Worked out great in car. The lines came 2" short of the core support, right beside my 26" radiator and still have access if you adjust the hose clamps in a creative direction. It's stupid simple that way.

They are secured by the k-member and prop valve. Good enough. Job took me an hour.
 
I've installed/replaced a few cooler lines in the car with/without headers..

It takes time and patience,, and sometimes you need to straighten them a bit to get them in,, but it can be done, (I'll never do stainless again)..

I usually push them forward from the bellhousing..

hope it helps
 
Run an aftermarket cooler I.m.o.....because the stock one doesn't cool as much as aftermarket.it also give i room to grow because if u get a looser convertor,Manuel valve body ur gonna want an aftermarket cooler. I always build for the future I hate doing things more then 1 time...lol
 
Run an aftermarket cooler I.m.o.....because the stock one doesn't cool as much as aftermarket.it also give i room to grow because if u get a looser convertor,Manuel valve body ur gonna want an aftermarket cooler. I always build for the future I hate doing things more then 1 time...lol

additional aftermarket cooler may or may not be needed but that one alone doesn't work right either since it cant warm the trans fluid.
 
So, I used the "4ft" and "5ft" 51" and 58" pre-made steel line w/ fittings from o'rielly's, did as few bends as possible, easy to bend by hand, the ones I did do were as lazy as could be, mock it up with wire to get length at the bends. Ran straight down the frame rail, rubber hose to cooler out front. Worked out great in car. The lines came 2" short of the core support, right beside my 26" radiator and still have access if you adjust the hose clamps in a creative direction. It's stupid simple that way.

They are secured by the k-member and prop valve. Good enough. Job took me an hour.

Close to mine. I went straight lines,mild bends. Went to brass Edelman rigid fittings. So much cleaner,don't really care about correctness. FWIW,running a custom mounted high efficency B & M cooler. So worth it,keep that trans temp 180-220-ish....Not pretty,it will survive on my budget.
 
I slid both of mine in through the back.wasnt hard just took some time and twisting them to orent the bends so they go through.
 
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