Adept connecting rods???

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zinser72

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anyone used these? are they any good and do you know what kind of rpm/hp they would handle? i can't find any info on them and their website is shut down.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Chrys...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1df624ae&vxp=mtr

and what about the strength of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Chrys...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1e4c8de2&vxp=mtr

they seem really cheap, cheaper than buying and reconditioning a set if they will be just as strong but never heard anything about the brand before
 
Wow! Those prices are stupid low! Eagle SIR rods are like $250 and handle 500hp and 6000rpm i think. Id be leary of those ebay rods BUT if they come back with good reviews i definatley want a set lol :cheers:
 
OK, its your money, you take your chances. Super cheap anything that normally is 2X the price is a little suspect.
 
I am not a fan of Chinese metallurgy or machining.......it has gotten better I hear , but what it is better than was terrible , so what do you gain ?
Don't be afraid to throw good bolts and re-sizing to stockers......they are pretty stout parts.
If you are building real power , don't skimp on parts.
It's not that much more money and you do get what you pay for.
If " decent " Chi Com parts ( K-1 , Scat etc. ) are too pricey , then I'd start saving.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
I have chinese h beams 'sold by ohio crankshaft' w/arp 2000 bolts in my 410 stroker spinning over 6500, they are fine.
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got two sets of chinese h beam rods in 360s...one in demon..one in dart.
 
thanks for responses guys. i think im going to go with scat i beams with 8740 bolts. they say they're good for 650 hp for $300. at least ive heard of scat before haha
 
zinser72 said:
thanks for responses guys. i think im going to go with scat i beams with 8740 bolts. they say they're good for 650 hp for $300. at least ive heard of scat before haha
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Good call.
I don't think it is fear , so much as common sense.
Good parts fail too , but cheap parts fail at a significantly higher rate.
We're not talking carb spacers here.
If a rod fails , it is never cheap.
Even if I am doing a budget build , there are limitations to my cheapness.
 
zinser72 said:
thanks for responses guys. i think im going to go with scat i beams with 8740 bolts. they say they're good for 650 hp for $300. at least ive heard of scat before haha
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Ive heard of scat before too, thats another word they use for 'sh*t' sometimes..lol jk

nah...good for u.

As for the price of those h beams....mostly they're same manufacture over seas selling to diff vendors/machine shops here who then set their own price.

Say the only catch could be that, or it could be that u might wanna have them checked for size, hence how cheap they r....but im not worried about the metal.
 
The first ebay pic looks like the old Cat h beams,probably on a close out sale.
 
pictures....

which is the scat i 4340 I beam..and which is the adept 4340 I beam....????


going to be used in a 318/390 stroker later this year....

scats weight in at 587, adepts at 595
 

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SCAT are on the right. The other rod is an RPM rod. Its sold by many other distributors. They are cheap because they are seconds or thirds or worse. Check them out good. Pins may be tight on them. SCATS are good to go right out of the box.

The SCAT rod has more beef on the big end where it counts, they are a stronger design.
 
MRL Performance said:
SCAT are on the right. The other rod is an RPM rod. Its sold by many other distributors. They are cheap because they are seconds or thirds or worse. Check them out good. Pins may be tight on them. SCATS are good to go right out of the box.

The SCAT rod has more beef on the big end where it counts, they are a stronger design.
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that is funny you call them cheap and second or third rods or worse...LOL
 
Hey, as long as they check out good Im sure they will be fine. They are cheap, $125 for a set of new rods is cheap, right? You can not recon a stock rod for that.

Im sorry, but when you build these engines for a living, you tend to shy away from the real cheap "bargains" on Ebay. See pic for my reasoning. This a 400hp el-cheapo engine. No more of this for me. It has happened only 1 time in the 20 years I have been building engines, and it was cheap parts that the customer supplied and I didnt want to use them.
 

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nope...the ones I got are the 4340 rods...not the 5140 rods....
 
They all come from china. lol Unless you step up and buy Carillos or K1s. And how do you know they don't come from china? Unless you see the metal poured, you don't.
 
Carillo,Crower billets,(high end, even crower machining cheap stuff!) Oliver.Last ones I know fully machined/poured in U.S.(that I know of.)
 
MRL Performance said:
Hey, as long as they check out good Im sure they will be fine. They are cheap, $125 for a set of new rods is cheap, right? You can not recon a stock rod for that.

Im sorry, but when you build these engines for a living, you tend to shy away from the real cheap "bargains" on Ebay. See pic for my reasoning. This a 400hp el-cheapo engine. No more of this for me. It has happened only 1 time in the 20 years I have been building engines, and it was cheap parts that the customer supplied and I didnt want to use them.
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A rod bolt in the lifter gallery? WOW
 
My thoughts - There are always corners cut in order to make a rod cheaper. It's not just labor costs that are lower. It's antique and worn out equipment doing the work. It's removing what some builders consider critical inspections, it's using iron whose grades are not tightly monitored or enforced, and removing higher skilled labor from final machining that makes Chinese stuff cheaper. A friend of mine is a millionaire because he's a liason between Chinese manufacturing and US companies. There are all kinds of issues with Chinese product and producers. Some will affect the end user. Some only affect the workers. But there are all kinds of things in play with that stuff and by using that product we all accept the risks and issues associated with producing it. For me, I do use the product but every chinese rod gets cycled and inspected carefully. I find issues where many others don't: pin bores too tight is common. So is the incorrect lube and/or torque specs on the hardware used - that means the final sizing is off once you use the right lube and torque them properly. The term "weight matched" has a different meaning in the far East too. These are all things that can be found and fixed - for a price. Usually it's still cheaper than a "better" rod. But not every time. Plus, there are casting issues that are not identifyable by any easy means. A certain percentage of any cast product is expected to have flaws. Inspections by the manufacturer will weed out some. Others will be weeded out during the finishing phase when something is noticed. But the cheaper rods skip some inspection steps with the understanding that as long as the profit margin is high enough, some failures are acceptible and can be blamed on other means and nobody's going to send the money to find out it was really the rod.
On these rods - I wouldnt want to be the guinea pig. I can have a very good set of stock rods done for $250.
 
The last set of K1 rods I bought for $500 had a sticker right on the box "MADE IN CHINA".

Cheap rods are cheap to buy. Once you re-size the small end, and most times the big end( I just had a set that was .0025" out-of-round, Eagle I beams), grind them to make the weight right(total weight doesnt count, the small/big ends have to weight the same), you may well have more invested into them than a better set of rods. The SCAT I beam rods are nice and I have yet to do anything to a set other than clean them and install them.
 
If the Chinese find it acceptable to put antifreeze in toothpaste, I shudder to think about what's going into their steel.

If I can't buy an American made connecting rod, I won't buy one, I guess.

If I can buy an expensive one, I'll feel good knowing that I supported a fellow American that, in all likelihood, supports me.
 
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