adjustable distributors?

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SirDan

SirDan

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Is there no reasonably priced adjustable advance distributor out there to work with the mopar ignition?

Or do I just need to get one of those cheap hei ones and just run hei ignition instead? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Small-Block...Parts_Accessories&hash=item51aa8b23c0&vxp=mtr


I know I could weld up my slots or get that plate to limit advance. I just feel like it would be like giving a nun a boob job. Its still an old distributor at the end of the day.
 
Nothing wrong with HEI, but I'm a Chevy truck guy. I dislike Mopar ignitions, find them to be a weak link. :violent1:
 
A few members,have run these.My try the "search" feature. I know of at least one thread on these.
 
trailbeast makes a hei kit to run with mopar dizzy, Im using it and it works great. Pm him or do search here for hei.
 
no..it will not..but you can buy a female cap for them...
 
I got one of the other chinese GM HEI complete with coil in my 64 Signet's 360, first thing I done was change the modual to an American one and stuck it in the motor. Its been there 2 years without a problem. It discarded all the stock wires and the exterior coil, control unit box and ballast. I set my plugs @.045 and they remain clean.

Why anyone would want wires everywhere, ballasts and those chrome or oranges boxes taking up space is beyond my mentality... Here's what it looks like as I installed it and 2, 3 wires and you're done.

I got enough to look after..
 
I did some searching and it seems its a holden cap and distributor design.

I wish I could run the gm style one with the huge cap but, from what I understand it doesn't fit.

I wish there was more pictures of this distributor, I am curious how the mechanical advance is adjusted.
 
SirDan said:
I did some searching and it seems its a holden cap and distributor design.

I wish I could run the gm style one with the huge cap but, from what I understand it doesn't fit.

I wish there was more pictures of this distributor, I am curious how the mechanical advance is adjusted.
Click to expand...

In an A Body it is TIGHT, really tight to the firewall. You could modify the firewall with a BFH........ Lol or cut the firewall and weld it back up to make room. Lol even harder....

I did see the other day that a guy actually moved his driveline forward about 1" to get it to clear.
 
I adjust every single parameter of my stock distributor, and it's not a huge hassle. Damn, how often are you getting in there and changing stuff, anyway?

Stock rocks and if you need more, go to EFI and do it right.
 
What about the MSD E-Core/ E-fire whatever that really nice distributor that they make and it makes me hate MSD for not making one in slant six format.

You know, the one that has the control module and coil built in like HEI dials you can turn with a flathead screwdriver to adjust initial timing as well as the rev limiter? If im not mistaken you can even plug in a laptop and change your timing curve as well.
 
Mad Dart said:
In an A Body it is TIGHT, really tight to the firewall. You could modify the firewall with a BFH........ Lol or cut the firewall and weld it back up to make room. Lol even harder....

I did see the other day that a guy actually moved his driveline forward about 1" to get it to clear.
Click to expand...
that right there is just lame! lol for a 50
.00 dist. lmao has more time than i do.....
 
I have never has a problem or limitation with the MoPar units. Though, if they need should arise, and I'm sure it will for me one say soon, LOL, I was checking out the MSD unit that is programable from inside the cap. It has been a while since I have looked. Take a stroll through there web site.
 
Distributors selection for me is all about ease of adjustments.

MSD's are super easy to adjust, cap and rotor off and you can make most any curve adjustment, ready to run or Pro billet.

Mopar, especially the older models require a complete teardown and welding. Newer still need to be torn down, just no welding. Not real user friendly. But, how many times do you need to break into it once you get it set up? Takes an hour or two if you have the springs and you're done.

The new cheapies on e-bay etc. require bending a tab to limit mechanical timing.
 
That's where I'm at with this.

I have a recurved original going back in and it works just fine, but I'm not tinkering, looking for 100ths or 10ths on a 1/4 mile, either.

If you race, get an MSD.

If you want good street, just do the work to an OG, leave your firewall alone, leave your air cleaner alone, leave the drivetrain as far back as you can, away from the front suspension.

It's sort of like the Street Demon carb I bought. Screws go top to bottom, from the bottom. BS for a racecar, doesn't matter at all on a street car. Set it and forget it.

Making old, heavy cars faster essentially IS giving a nun a pair. That's the name of the game. Dragsters get torn down between runs, because they are made for it.
 
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