ryan1964
Well-Known Member
I have a 1964 barracuda V8 with a 4 speed I can't get the clutch adjusted so that the throw out bearing isn't touching the pressure plate when it returns i have tried everything that I can any help would be great thanks
Adjusting the clutch
- Thread starter ryan1964
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Pictures! You are at the end of the adjustment? All original parts?
ryan1964
Well-Known Member
It's not at the end I don't have any pictures right now mostly original parts we had to extend the original adjustment rod to get the clutch to work after we put it all back together it seams like it doesn't have a happy medium it's either engaging and the bearing is riding on the plate or the bearing is free and it won't release the pressure plate
I adjust mine with about a 3/16" gap between the bearing and the pressure plate fingers. The pedal free play will be where it will be. If you run the bearing on the pp fingers for very long, the bearing will sieze and tear up the pressure plate. Ask me how I know.
ryan1964
Well-Known Member
That's what I'm trying to avoid
Daves69
Well-Known Member
And it was working before? Other than the clutch rod length what was/has changed?
Is your fork on the pivot and release bearing pads correctly?
ryan1964
Well-Known Member
Should be going to take everything back apart in just a bit it has always been weird ever since I put it together I should've just put all new everything in when I put the car back together but everything looked OK
First, are these known stock parts native to the car, and did it EVER work right?
If so, could be.........
An actual defective pressure plate. Been there
Too thin clutch disk. This is even more suspicious in this day and age
Worn/ broken/ missing bushing in the Z bar
Other parts bent/ broken.
Have you looked carefully into the bell? Are you certain the fork is properly seated on the TO bearing?
IS THIS a well used disc? Discs get thinner with wear which causes the pp fingers to ride higher
And what changed that got you to this point?
If so, could be.........
An actual defective pressure plate. Been there
Too thin clutch disk. This is even more suspicious in this day and age
Worn/ broken/ missing bushing in the Z bar
Other parts bent/ broken.
Have you looked carefully into the bell? Are you certain the fork is properly seated on the TO bearing?
IS THIS a well used disc? Discs get thinner with wear which causes the pp fingers to ride higher
And what changed that got you to this point?
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The fork, properly engaged in the TO Bearing-clips, and properly affixed to the pivot bracket, should be at the forward-most edge of the access window, with just enough room to install the rubber fork boot. There should be an "anti-rattle spring" just below the window to pull it there. The spring must be rolled into the slit in the BH, then rotated to the rear, and attached to the fork in the notch provided there. This should bring the TO bearing into direct contact with the clutch release fingers. This is your starting point.
The Z-bar has nylon bushings at each end, that engage on the stud-balls. The Z-bar must be anchored on the ball, at the frame end, by a fancy horseshoe clip. After it is properly assembled, it will not slide transversely, and the downrod will stay in the center of the firewall window.
Once the Z-bar is properly located, it will be about parallel to the ground, and should be at about 90degrees to the centerline of the car. If yours does not end up there, SOMETHING IS WRONG, fix it. Most likely, the ball on the BH is in the wrong place.
When you get that bugged out, you install the adjustable pushrod, which should then also be parallel to the centerline of the car. If it is not, it may be because the WRONG fork has been installed.
Next; as the pedal is stroked from top to bottom, that adjustable pushrod should move more or less in a straight line, front to back, still and always, parallel to the centerline of the car. If it does not, it will eventually kick off the retainer clip. A small amount of vertical travel, at either end, is normal. The way that the system is built, even with the clip gone AWOL, it will still continue to function, and is NOT LIKELY to fall apart, but it may rattle.
and Finally, the adjusting nut on the pushrod, if not an interference type nut, or not a mechanical locknut, will NOT keep it's adjustment. If you use a common nut there, it will need to be locked in place by a second not AND, very important, you have to provide a back-up system, to prevent the second locknut from falling off in the event that it comes loose. What I do is cross-drill a hole in the back end of the rod and install a cotter-pin or, if a hairpin I keep a spare zip-tied nearby. If you have headers, you may need to think about access to the installed retainer, when the headers are hot, lol.
What I did was install a steel-half-ball instead of that rubber junk. and I put one nut on the engine side of the ball, and the other after the ball. So now, to lock the ball in position, I just run the front nut up to the ball, set the freeplay, then crank the rearmost nut up tight, and drop my safety pin back into the cross-drilled hole.
To help you get this all together correctly,
@Dan Brewer
has all the parts you need. Plus helpful pictures
The Z-bar has nylon bushings at each end, that engage on the stud-balls. The Z-bar must be anchored on the ball, at the frame end, by a fancy horseshoe clip. After it is properly assembled, it will not slide transversely, and the downrod will stay in the center of the firewall window.
Once the Z-bar is properly located, it will be about parallel to the ground, and should be at about 90degrees to the centerline of the car. If yours does not end up there, SOMETHING IS WRONG, fix it. Most likely, the ball on the BH is in the wrong place.
When you get that bugged out, you install the adjustable pushrod, which should then also be parallel to the centerline of the car. If it is not, it may be because the WRONG fork has been installed.
Next; as the pedal is stroked from top to bottom, that adjustable pushrod should move more or less in a straight line, front to back, still and always, parallel to the centerline of the car. If it does not, it will eventually kick off the retainer clip. A small amount of vertical travel, at either end, is normal. The way that the system is built, even with the clip gone AWOL, it will still continue to function, and is NOT LIKELY to fall apart, but it may rattle.
and Finally, the adjusting nut on the pushrod, if not an interference type nut, or not a mechanical locknut, will NOT keep it's adjustment. If you use a common nut there, it will need to be locked in place by a second not AND, very important, you have to provide a back-up system, to prevent the second locknut from falling off in the event that it comes loose. What I do is cross-drill a hole in the back end of the rod and install a cotter-pin or, if a hairpin I keep a spare zip-tied nearby. If you have headers, you may need to think about access to the installed retainer, when the headers are hot, lol.
What I did was install a steel-half-ball instead of that rubber junk. and I put one nut on the engine side of the ball, and the other after the ball. So now, to lock the ball in position, I just run the front nut up to the ball, set the freeplay, then crank the rearmost nut up tight, and drop my safety pin back into the cross-drilled hole.
To help you get this all together correctly,
@Dan Brewer
has all the parts you need. Plus helpful pictures
If this is a fresh build, check to see that the clutch disc is not installed backwards. It happens.
ryan1964
Well-Known Member
So what had happened was the lever on the transmission side of the Z bar ripped out so we welded back up and is working great now thank you guys for the help
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