Advice needed on used crate engine...part II

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BrianT

Here we go again...
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Last weekend I bought a used 300 hp 360 crate motor off of my local CL. This motor was bought as an interim engine to use for a year or two until I could build my dream stroker small block. The plans were to check it out, add a gasket set, timing set, paint it up and drive it. You can check that thread here in case you missed it.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=178536

The ad read that it was a roller cam, roller rocker, forged piston motor with 60k miles, that he guaranteed to be a "kick ***, little hot rod motor". When I got up there to look at it, we pulled a valve cover. It didn't have roller rockers so he knocked $100 off the price and we agreed on $400. Done deal, I paid him, he gave me a receipt with a money back guarantee. We agreed that I would come back today with a pick up to get it.

Fast forward to today. Picked it up no problem and got it home on the engine stand to begin tear down. :cheers:

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The first thing that I noticed while I was pulling the M1 intake was that there is some sort of epoxy smeared around where the heater hose outlet should be? Then I noticed that the outlet was plugged with a brass fitting? The other hose outlet on the water pump was capped off.

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So we continue tear down and pull off the heads. Of course, there is no roller cam. It is a roller cam block, but like I was told in the previous thread, it probably didn't have a roller cam. But, it was advertised that way.

The next problem we noticed besides the Hyper pistons, is a pretty good ring ridge. My buddy is a certified Chrysler mechanic and he estimated that the engine had closer to 80-100 k miles on it. The non forged pistons didn't bother me at this point because I was told in the previous thread that they came with hypers. But I have to say I was a little pissed at the amount of cylinder wear. No signs of any cross hatch and enough ring ring that you could catch your nail easily. This is at TDC so you can't see the cylinder, sorry.

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At this point, I figure what the hell else could go wrong so we continued the tear down. We found a bolt broken off in the harmonic balancer. Not a big deal, but still an unexpected pain in the ***...

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Once we got the timing cover off, we found a chain that was so sloppy that it reinforced our belief that this was not a 60k mile engine as advertised.

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We went a head and pulled the oil pan, that was held on by hardware store bolts and found a thick layer of sludge covering the bottom of the pan. The pan was black and not painted the same as the engine? The oil in it was thick and dark, but not what I would consider black and didn't smell bad.

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We didn't bother to plastigauge the bearings as intended because I didn't feel that I could take any more bad news tonight.

The bottom line is, the engine that I bought to be an interim engine, has now become a core for a rebuild. I already have a 73 standard bore 360 that I was going to use for my stoker build.

I plan on contacting the seller in the morning after I have had a chance to calm down a bit. He sells quite a few Mopar parts on our local CL and currently has over 30 ads selling parts. He said his word is good and that he wouldn't rip off another Mopar guy, but I think he may have unknowingly done that.

I am going to send him a nicely worded email in the morning along with all of the pictures above, and ask him what he intends to do to rectify this situation. I think at least $100 refund might help take the sting out of this deal. What do you all think?!?
 
Why not buy USCG's R1 motor he is building? You know its top notch and you would be helping out a member?
 
****, I wish I had that kind of cash. Looks like a top notch build for sure!!
 
I don't know, to me it looks like a used engine. I think your expectations might be a little high for a $400-$500 engine buy. I have yet to pull a used engine apart and find a tight timing chain. The oil pan indicates maintance was probably lacking. That could also be the reason for the cyclinder wear.

I think it's possible the motor could run fine in in current condition if no serious scrapes in the cylinder walls. How do the combustion chambers and plugs look?
 
I think it's possible the motor could run fine in in current condition if no serious scrapes in the cylinder walls. How do the combustion chambers and plugs look?

The cylinders look okay, no scarring or scrapes. Just the sizable ridge and NO visible cross hatch. Combustion chambers and plugs (AC Delco) were both covered in black soot, like the engine had been running rich. But nothing seriously wrong with them. My buddy said we could lap the valves, install new seals and run them.

The pistons had 702 stamped in the top of them. I can't find any info on them when I googled that number. I didn't have a dial indicator, but at TDC they appear to be down in the hole. Does anyone have an idea on what pistons these are?
 
get everything hot tanked
only replace what you absolutely must

probably main/rod bearings
gaskets of course

hopefully not a cam

the pistons are a 50/50 if you have to bore .010 over you will need pistons too. then it gets expensive. so save this roller block for the stroker.

your '73 core... if it's standard bore and does not need machining you can use these pistons, just put in new rings.

in other words use this rotating assembly in the '73 block.
save the roller block for your stroker build....
 
its a $400 temp. motor that the guy said ran good.. think i would have at most put a chain and oil pump in the thing and threw it in the car. i know for a temp motor i wouldn't have pulled the heads or anything like that..
 
your '73 core... if it's standard bore and does not need machining you can use these pistons, just put in new rings.

in other words use this rotating assembly in the '73 block.
save the roller block for your stroker build....

Both blocks are standard bore. This is an interesting idea. Nothing is getting bored until the stroker is built.

i know for a temp motor i wouldn't have pulled the heads or anything like that..

Felpro gasket set comes with head gaskets, so I figured it wouldn't hurt to pull them and find out what things look like.
 
Well, my nicely worded email was met with a hostile reply from the seller. He offered a full refund and to come and get it back from me. I think I will just part it out and see if I can make some of my money back.

I like the idea of taking my 73 block, dingle balling the cylinders, and using the internals and heads from the crate motor. This would add rings and bearings to the cost. I would replace the unknown cam also.

Good thing I got one of those 10% off Summit codes last week!!
 
He offered a full refund and to come and get it back from me.

Wow, while his email may have been hostile, you gotta hand it to him for offering to make good on the deal.

In any case, good luck with it all, and the new build.

Pat
 
Strange how people flip like that...

I see this with my kids and my wife all the time. When they know they did something wrong, they get angry at me first so that I get on the defensive. It's called the "you can't be mad at me, because I was mad at you first" syndrome...

Wow, while his email may have been hostile, you gotta hand it to him for offering to make good on the deal.

In any case, good luck with it all, and the new build.

Pat

Thanks! I have some parts that came with the engine that I didn't need and will be selling them soon to offset some of the cost of the engine. It's still a good roller block core for my stroker project.

When life gives you lemons...
 
Honestly, you paid for a good used engine and that's what you got.
I think you got what you paid for.
The wear is not unusual for a used engine, and it sounds like it was over carburated and that explains the cylinder wear and the sludge in the pan.
I would re gasket it, fix the minor problems, and plug it in as is and use it as you intended to.
 
I don't know, to me it looks like a used engine. I think your expectations might be a little high for a $400-$500 engine buy. I have yet to pull a used engine apart and find a tight timing chain. The oil pan indicates maintance was probably lacking. That could also be the reason for the cyclinder wear.

I think it's possible the motor could run fine in in current condition if no serious scrapes in the cylinder walls. How do the combustion chambers and plugs look?

I dont think his expectations are high at all. The motor was misrepresented!

But I do think the guy you bought from is a part's flipper. He most likely bought the motor from someone who misrepresented it to him.

There are great deals to be had. I bought a 360 creampuff which had 60 000 miles. Pulled the vc and it was clean as a new head! I paid $300..
 
But I do think the guy you bought from is a part's flipper. He most likely bought the motor from someone who misrepresented it to him.

That's exactly what he is! He told me that he bought it from a friend and that he was only relaying to me what his friend told him about the engine. So I guess that makes his friend the liar. Whatever makes it easier for you to sleep at night I guess.

Offering to give me a refund is stand up of him, but I would still be out my gas costs (two trips) and a whole day spent hauling it back and tearing it down. Live and learn I guess.
 
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