Alternator hookup HELP!!

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dustoff440

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I am rewiring my car and would appreciate some advice on hooking up the factory alternator. I will not be using the factory wiring and want to know how to wire the alternator through the regulator when none of the original wire exists. Can I just wire the regulator to the two terminals coming off the alt. I will be running no amp gauge and a wire directly from the stud to the pos post. Also using msd6al.
 
its easy, dual fld alt and regulator?



71DartChargingWiring.jpg
 
I dont have a ballast as I am running an msd6al. so by looking at your diagram I could just run the blue tracer to the run ignition??????????????
 
Here's how this works. The BLUE coming off the regulator "top" terminal AND EITHER of the "push on" terminals of your alternator go to "switched ignition run."

The GREEN coming out the regulator goes to the remaining "push on" terminal of the alternator.

MAKE SURE the regulator is GROUNDED to the battery NEG, IE if the battery is hooked to the engine block, you need a good jumper from the block to the body. I use no4 "starter cables" (eye to eye, used on Ferds) You can buy 'em at any parts store. I use a 1 footer (actually two) hooked to the bolt on the back of the head (SB) and to one of the brake master mount bolts

ALSO CHECK that your ignition supply does not have excessive voltage drop.

TO DO THIS, turn the key to run, engine off. Hook your meter, one probe right to the battery positive post, and the other probe to the dark blue at either the alternator field (blue) or the blue going to the regulator. What you are measuring is the voltage drop from.........

The battery, ---through the ---fuse link--bulkhead connector--ammeter wiring--ignition switch connector--switch--back out the switch connector--back out the bulkhead--to the ignition/ regulator.

IF THE METER shows more than .2V (two TENTHS of a volt) and CERTAINLY if it reads upwards of 1/2 volt, you need to chase that path and find where the bad connection is.

Your top no1 suspects are the bulkhead connector, the ignition switch connector, and last, the switch itself.

AFTER YOU GET the engine running, and the battery charged, MEASURE the charging voltage.

If it is high, approaching or over 15V, test the GROUND side of the circuit.

To do this, start the car, and with the battery charged and normalised, run the engine to simulate "low to med. cruise RPM." Put one meter probe right onto the battery neg. post, the other probe right on the regulator frame/ case. Be sure to "stab" through any rust/ paint/ chrome, and you should NOT read MORE than .2V. Anything OVER .2v indicates a poor ground between the battery and regulator.

BOTH of these readings, the ground drop and the positive drop, ARE ADDED to the set point of the regulator. In my own dart, before the "partial rewire" there was a ONE VOLT drop in the ignition harness.
 
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