Alternator problem

[Muad'Dib15]

So the alternator that was on the car yesterday was off of the 225 that was in the car originally. It was roughly 30 years old and was dying. I literally drove in the driveway after picking up a new alternator and the lights were dimming, it was raining today, I revved the car up and the lights brightened. I swapped it out in about 10 min and hooked it up and expected it to run. It fired for about 5 seconds then stopped. Ok, it does that every time I fire it up cold anyway. So I turn the key again and nothing happens. 30 min later it does the same thing. So 40 min before I have to leave for work I say screw it and put the old alternator back on. The car has been charging for about 4 hours because it needed it for some reason. Turn the key, nothing happens. While waiting for the car to charge for the second firing, I took off the dashboard and screwed the ignition down a little tighter so that it wouldn't turn when I turned the key. It sparked once. It also sparked when I put the wire over the bolt. The big difference between the two alternators is that the one I bought has two plugs on it and has a label that says it requires an external voltage regulator. I bought it for a 360 in a Plymouth "Fury", because it didn't come in 66 obviously. I'm taking it back tomorrow to get the correct one and to get the old one load tested. Did I screw up the alternator, and why won't it fire anymore? And could I have possibly fried the battery? Thanks.

 

[cudamark]

Sounds like multiple problems....If you have a good battery, you don't need an alternator to start the engine. All the alternator does is recharge the battery and suppliment electrical demand while the car is running. If you're using the '66 type charging system, you should have a 2 wire alternator (one big red one and one small green one). The original type regulator was a point type one but most replacements you get at the auto parts store these days are solid state. Either will do the job but the point type reg is prone to voltage spikes so not recommended for electronic ignition systems. If you have converted to the '70-up charging system, you'll need a 3 wire alternator (has and extra field connection). This system used a solid state regulator. Most auto parts stores will test your alternator and/or battery for free so first determine that they're both good before you start replacing things. With everything turned off, there should be no current draw when you connect/disconnect any wires unless you have modified the wiring or added accessories that draw juice all the time. Disconnect the battery and find out why you have any "sparking" going on around the ignition switch. That may be why you're having starting problems.

 

[67Dart273]

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=141734

Ya need to keep this in none thread