Alternator questions

-
Fstforward

Fstforward

Barracuda Freak
Joined
Jun 23, 2009
Messages
916
Reaction score
14
Location
Pittsburgh, Pa
I have a question regarding the alternator setup on my 64 Barracuda. The alternator looks, to me, like a chevy alternator, and only has the one wire comint to it(see attached pics). It also has, what appear to me, to be home made brackets(see pic). I would like to put a Mopar alternator back on this engine, but am not sure what I have to do to convert it back to standard. HELP!!!

Any and all help will be deeply appreciated!!!

DSC00198.jpg


DSC00199.jpg


DSC00200.jpg
 
yep looks like a delco to me too. I would say post in parts wanted for the brackets and alt for that engine. If you feel you need more than the stock 36 amps you will need the same stock brabkets and a dual field square back alt.
Good luck
 
YES it is a GM alt. its what thay use to call a marine alt.(good alt.)nice for race cars.not much wireing to do.id be interesed in it if you whant to get rid of it.
 
By the looks of your setup you already have the brackets to remount a Mopar alternator to your motor. You need the upper mount which is the triangle piece in your picture, and also the lower swing arm adjusting bracket for the belt tensioning. It looks like you already have that too. It would be the wiring aspect of your setup which would need to be addressed. The stock wiring on a 64 needs to have the power line wired into the harness, which they may have spliced into under that wiring sheath, and it also needs a single field wire that goes to the voltage regulator that is mounted to the firewall. I believe GM alternators have the voltage regulator built into the unit, so they may have bypassed that aspect of your system, a better picture of the firewall and another of the wiring unsheathed to see where it goes would help solve this. Snap a couple more pics and we'll see if we can unravel this mystery!!! Geof
 
godfatherofchry said:
YES it is a GM alt. its what thay use to call a marine alt.(good alt.)nice for race cars.not much wireing to do.id be interesed in it if you whant to get rid of it.
Click to expand...


Hey godfatherofchry,

Maybe he would be interested in the Mopar mini alt (with the brackets) I have of yours as a trade. If so I would be more then happy to ship it to him. All he would have to do is send or paypal me $25. This would pay for and cover the cost of the new wiring plug I bought and the shipping to his location...

KP
 
If he is running anything other than the stock wiring system, then maybe an upgrade to the higher output alternator could be in order. HOWEVER, if they are shooting all that juice through the otherwise stock wiring harness and amp guage, a 100 amp alternator will turn this wiring inside out. I believe the alternator he has on there now puts out 75 amps, still a dangerous situation that needs to be corrected through a good check of the wiring system. Remember that these cars only ran a 36amp alternator stock (26 amps for 6 cyl cars), and run on just a portion of that unless the motor's wide open. A 76 amp Mopar alternator runs at about 35 amps, the high end of the stock system. Lets get a check on the wiring before anything else, if it's "good-ol'-boyed" up like that alternator bracket, it's gonna need a look-see to figure it all out. Post the pics when you get the chance and we'll see whats there. Geof
 
cosgig said:
If he is running anything other than the stock wiring system, then maybe an upgrade to the higher output alternator could be in order. HOWEVER, if they are shooting all that juice through the otherwise stock wiring harness and amp guage, a 100 amp alternator will turn this wiring inside out. I believe the alternator he has on there now puts out 75 amps, still a dangerous situation that needs to be corrected through a good check of the wiring system. Remember that these cars only ran a 36amp alternator stock (26 amps for 6 cyl cars), and run on just a portion of that unless the motor's wide open. A 76 amp Mopar alternator runs at about 35 amps, the high end of the stock system. Lets get a check on the wiring before anything else, if it's "good-ol'-boyed" up like that alternator bracket, it's gonna need a look-see to figure it all out. Post the pics when you get the chance and we'll see whats there. Geof
Click to expand...


+2. Upgrading the wiring is a must if you going to a higher output alternator.
 
Bypass the amp gauge and run a separate wire to the starter relay stud if you are going higher than stock output.
 
Ok, took more pics, followed the wire that connects to the back of the alternator, it goes straight to the battery, does not pass go, does not collect $200. In the pics you can see that the sheath goes along the engine to the firewall, across the back of the engine, and up to the battery. I've also included a lousy pic of the firewall wiring.

FF

DSC00202.jpg


DSC00203.jpg


DSC00204.jpg
 
Well it looks to me that they have bypassed the vehicles current wiring system in that the alternator is charging the battery and has bypassed the cars wiring route through the bulkhead and thus the amp guage. Obviously, the alternator has a built in voltage regulator, and your current stock wiring has the old points style voltage regulator. In order to go back to Mopar alternator, you would have to rehook up this old system to use the voltage regulator, which is intended for use with the single field 36 amp alternator. A change to the newer style regulator should be on your list if you are going to upgrade the alternators output any. The 36 amp alternator is minimal at best, especially if you are running an MSD ignition system. I see the MSD coil, but It looks like the stock style points distributor. If you have points still, the 36 amp system hooked up as stock will run the electrical requirements of your car. Anything other than the stock system and you should be thinking about an upgrade. Your current alternator has effectively bypassed the wiring system and should be safe as wired, but if you're changing it out, get yourself changed over to electronic ignition (if you haven't already), the dual field alternator (if you're staying all Mopar) and the newer style voltage regulator. All easy hookups, especially on the simple wiring of the older A's. If you're gonna run something other than all Mopar stuff, the other guys may have some timely tips to getting the maximum output for your systenm. I'm all Mopar, and a little bit old school at that. That old single piston master cylinder should be next on your list of upgrades too, if something ever happens to it's functionality, you will lose ALL braking, not a good look!!! Good luck with your project, Geof
 
I picked up an 8-3/4 rear, and a complete disc setup for the front, including dual res master cylinder and prop valve, so the old single master cylinder is going
 
cosgig said:
In order to go back to Mopar alternator, you would have to rehook up this old system to use the voltage regulator, which is intended for use with the single field 36 amp alternator. A change to the newer style regulator should be on your list if you are going to upgrade the alternators output any. The 36 amp alternator is minimal at best, especially if you are running an MSD ignition system. I see the MSD coil, but It looks like the stock style points distributor. If you have points still, the 36 amp system hooked up as stock will run the electrical requirements of your car.
Is this pretty straight forward, as it seems the old alternator wiring is gonzo. I'd love to upgrade to the better regulator and alternator, as well as electronic ignition to rid myself of the points.

FF
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
cosgig said:
By the looks of your setup you already have the brackets to remount a Mopar alternator to your motor. You need the upper mount which is the triangle piece in your picture, and also the lower swing arm adjusting bracket for the belt tensioning. It looks like you already have that too. Geof
Click to expand...

Yep... good eye bossman.
 
Fstforward said:
cosgig said:
In order to go back to Mopar alternator, you would have to rehook up this old system to use the voltage regulator, which is intended for use with the single field 36 amp alternator. A change to the newer style regulator should be on your list if you are going to upgrade the alternators output any. The 36 amp alternator is minimal at best, especially if you are running an MSD ignition system. I see the MSD coil, but It looks like the stock style points distributor. If you have points still, the 36 amp system hooked up as stock will run the electrical requirements of your car.
Is this pretty straight forward, as it seems the old alternator wiring is gonzo. I'd love to upgrade to the better regulator and alternator, as well as electronic ignition to rid myself of the points.

FF
Click to expand...


Here is a wiring diagram. If you use this with a later model "square back" alternator and regulator you will be fine. You'll have the additional amps and better charging system than the solid state. Make sure you know the amp output of the alternator when you purchase it and also that your charging system wires can handle the load. I went with a 4 ga from the alt to the starter relay and my alt is a 75 amp. A little over kill but I like it that way. I have already did the upgrade using the same wiring diagram. I was already running a aftermarket ignition. good luck

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73BarracudaA.JPG
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
I'm using a 100 amp one wire GM alternator from summit.
I think it cost like $85.oo plus shipping.

I was not aware of the chrysler 100 amp 1 wires alternators at the time otherwise I would have one of them bolted on.

I am happy with the GM alternator I have now but if it fizzles out I will definitely be getting one of those chrysler ones to replace it.

Thanks for the link cuda66273

8-6.jpg
 
Here's how it should look. ( i'm pretty sure anyway) Mine is a 65 273 barracuda.
I had the one wire alt rebuilt and upgraded to 60 amp. It needs the external Voltage regulator. I haven't upgraded my wiring yet as I haven't added any power drawing accessories yet. Still plain jane.

100_0134.jpg


100_0135.jpg


100_0136.jpg
 
Fstforward said:
I picked up an 8-3/4 rear, and a complete disc setup for the front, including dual res master cylinder and prop valve, so the old single master cylinder is going
Click to expand...

That's welcome news on the brake upgrade. Now back to the wiring. Look over your existing wiring and see if the old wires are still there for the alternator and the field terminal. Also look over the entire harness for any signs that it has been spliced into and butchered up. I have an engine forward wiring harness that was removed from a 66 Valiant, if you are in need of it let me know. It will get you back to the stock wiring setup, which is just to baseline where to start from, then you can upgrade from there. If yours is in good condition and the wires have just been laid aside, that's even better. Returning to the stock wiring setup is easy, and doing the upgrade to the dual field alternator and newer voltage regulator is also a snap. Mullinax, I didn't check your wiring diagram, but I'm sure it's what fstforward is needing to put him on the right track. Thanks for sharing, we'll get this right before the 340's ready for sure. Fst, what headers are you planning on running with the 340? Geof
 
I bought a set of the spitfire headers, have them sitting in the parts pile right now, once the rear is in, and the engine goes back in, I'll get the exhaust system built and then send the headers out to get coated.

FF
 
Thanks all for the help/suggestions, and the wiring diagram!!!

Now to finally get started on this car, lots fo work ahead, but I just can't wait to drive it!!!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top