Alternator
- Thread starter nodemon
- Start date
-
Go to the parts store you like and buy a reman alternator for a 72 Plymouth Demon 318 non AC.
I'm not being snarky, but what you describe is the run of the mill, reman alternator.
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1972/plymouth/duster/engine_electrical/alternator.html
Since it is an easy replacement item, no need to get the top of the line super-duper 250.00 alternator when a lifetime warrantee 50.00 will most likely outlive you.
Just make sure the pulley is the same OD as the OEM you are replacing.
Now if you have added all kinds of electrical load that's another thing altogether.
I'm not being snarky, but what you describe is the run of the mill, reman alternator.
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1972/plymouth/duster/engine_electrical/alternator.html
Since it is an easy replacement item, no need to get the top of the line super-duper 250.00 alternator when a lifetime warrantee 50.00 will most likely outlive you.
Just make sure the pulley is the same OD as the OEM you are replacing.
Now if you have added all kinds of electrical load that's another thing altogether.
Ha..! I get it...and no offense taken.. I always appreciate the help, no matter how trivial it is, especially something I kinda already know... but, I like the different opinions on even the smallest tasks... Never fails, someone will try and give a "better" option...and sometimes a huge debate will take place and that yields a bunch of good info for a greenhorn like myself.
After almost 4 years of trying to get this project not only on the road, but at least started for the first time, I'm getting impatient and anxious that everything goes right because now I'm SO close.
Most / a lot of you guys have been through MANY projects and cars.. this is my first and just look for the experienced opinions, options and skills..
Thanks..!!
if you have a wrecking yard near by with older cars you could probably get a used one as long as a few conditions are met like bearings spin freely and with minimal noise, electrical resistances at particular points are in range etc.
Even without an alternator, but a fully charged battery you can start the car and drive it for around an hour on a good battery
Even without an alternator, but a fully charged battery you can start the car and drive it for around an hour on a good battery
dano
Evil Handy Man
What are you looking for in a replacement Alternator? Some need larger ones for stereos, EFI, electric Fans, etc. Are you in that camp or will stock work fine?
Nothing special needed.. yet...lol
dano
Evil Handy Man
I guess get a reman with a warranty or see if you have a local alternator rebuilder.
I would ask for a 73 or 74 because a better chance--and make sure you do--get a "squareback" AKA the kind with the newer rectangular diode stack. You may or may not have that type now.
70 was the start of the Electronic VR and the square back alternators, sure there were some isolated ground round back but they would be few and far between.
Buy the parts specifically for your car.
Less chance of going wrong
Last edited:
Be Careful!!! If you are using a stock wiring harness without high demand electrical add ons be sure that you get an alternator with output of 60 amps or less. Lots of companies these days offer 100 plus amp alternators like they are doing you some sort of favor. they are not and can lead to wiring problems due to mismatched components.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
i like the internally regulated denso (60 amp) i put on our dart.
RioGrandMan
Well-Known Member
My 66 bcuda currently isn't running and I am doing the alternator and some wiring while I'm doing it. Do I got a high output alternator, I removed the amp meter and it will get a volt meter instead. I plan to remove the wire that feed the ampmeter through the firewall and that fire hazard. And the fusable link is now a breaker.
I plan on using a higher gauge wire for the alternator power. But now I'm looking at wiring harnesses, do I need electronic ignition? Are their other components I haven't realized I need to replace with this electrical update? My goal is to bring some of the functions of a modern car with minimal updates that change the feel of the original vehicle.
Those additions, Hidden Bluetooth stereo with amps, electric fuel pump, adding the rear defrost fan option, hazard lights that mine doesn't not have, and with some luck a back up camera with a hidden screen that I got mounted in the flip down ash tray.
I'm currently looking at wiring kits, particularly for the engine compartment but like the idea of keeping the original bulkhead connector and running heavy gauge wire to the fuse box separately. Has anyone got any recommendations with that, or a good modern fuse box with added circuits that will mount cleanly into the original kick panel area?
I plan on using a higher gauge wire for the alternator power. But now I'm looking at wiring harnesses, do I need electronic ignition? Are their other components I haven't realized I need to replace with this electrical update? My goal is to bring some of the functions of a modern car with minimal updates that change the feel of the original vehicle.
Those additions, Hidden Bluetooth stereo with amps, electric fuel pump, adding the rear defrost fan option, hazard lights that mine doesn't not have, and with some luck a back up camera with a hidden screen that I got mounted in the flip down ash tray.
I'm currently looking at wiring kits, particularly for the engine compartment but like the idea of keeping the original bulkhead connector and running heavy gauge wire to the fuse box separately. Has anyone got any recommendations with that, or a good modern fuse box with added circuits that will mount cleanly into the original kick panel area?
-
Similar threads
- Locked
