WAYNE0
Well-Known Member
Who here has or is running a aluminum flywheel in a street car ? Can it be done without issues ?
ALUMINUM FLYWHEEL
- Thread starter WAYNE0
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I am a few weeks away from driving my car for the first time with a newly installed aluminum flywheel. I will update once I have, good or bad.
I spoke at length with Jody Haag, of Jody's transmissions. Jody says in order to use an aluminum flywheel successfully on the street, you must have a 1st gear ratio of 11. Meaning your first gear ratio of transmission multiplied by rear gear ratio and the result is 11 or greater. I am running 4.10 gear in the diff and 2.65 first in transmission, resulting in 10.87. My 408 makes a lot of torque so I feel I am close enough to 11.
I spoke to other experienced stick guys on FABO who also supported the use of aluminum flywheel on street strip type car.
There will be a lot of people commenting that you can't or shouldn't, for this reason or that. They likely have not tried it. These might be the folks who also claim tunnel rams don't work well on the street.
@perfacar
@Newbomb Turk
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i ran one for years on the street in my 64 and then 65 darts. both cars were powered by several different versions of 318's from the vaunted 318 2bbl with a swap meet/junkyard 4bbl intake and carb to the rowdy 400hp 318 magazine build that everybody mentions.
3.09 1st with 3.55's out back. tire size never over 26" and were in the 24" for the most part. ran the stock 9.5" stuff-- sachs pressure plate and disc and then later the zoom 10" MU series components.
the zooted up 318 with a single plane M1 and big carb was the least enjoyable of the combos to drive. i wound up pulling it and putting on a M1 dual plane and/or airgap with a vacuum secondaires 750. night and day difference.
3.09 1st with 3.55's out back. tire size never over 26" and were in the 24" for the most part. ran the stock 9.5" stuff-- sachs pressure plate and disc and then later the zoom 10" MU series components.
the zooted up 318 with a single plane M1 and big carb was the least enjoyable of the combos to drive. i wound up pulling it and putting on a M1 dual plane and/or airgap with a vacuum secondaires 750. night and day difference.
WAYNE0
Well-Known Member
I have a 67 barracuda. I am in the proses of having a 383 438ci stroker built for it. 3:91 gears 833 4spd I know for a fact you can run a tunnel ram on the street. I have friend who did for many many years with great success.
well... with 3.91's it's gonna be fun. depending on your rear tire height, expect to shift 2nd before you're out of the intersection.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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I know this is not what you asked, but;
I like the combination of a 3.09 low gear and 3.55s in the back, which provide a comfortable 10.97 starter gear, yet cruises at 2870 in direct/2240 in GVod.
In my street-combo, I like the heavy factory flywheel for a couple of reasons;
1) it keeps my engine rotating when idled down to 500/550 rpm, and
2) it smooths out my cam when idling along in first gear, like parading, and
3) it makes taking off, more or less a "dump it and go" deal, so she don't sound like a Mustang when taking off, which thing I hate........ A little blip on the throttle, then drop the clutch about IDK say 70%, then feed it out quick. By the time the rpm has dropped back, the engine is well able to take throttle at 100% clutch. 700rpm is 5mph.
IDK if a lightweight clutch could agree with my driving style.
There was a time, in the beginning, when my combo was still on the drawing board, when I thought to install one, but I fought the urge, and, I've never been sorry.
I like the combination of a 3.09 low gear and 3.55s in the back, which provide a comfortable 10.97 starter gear, yet cruises at 2870 in direct/2240 in GVod.
In my street-combo, I like the heavy factory flywheel for a couple of reasons;
1) it keeps my engine rotating when idled down to 500/550 rpm, and
2) it smooths out my cam when idling along in first gear, like parading, and
3) it makes taking off, more or less a "dump it and go" deal, so she don't sound like a Mustang when taking off, which thing I hate........ A little blip on the throttle, then drop the clutch about IDK say 70%, then feed it out quick. By the time the rpm has dropped back, the engine is well able to take throttle at 100% clutch. 700rpm is 5mph.
IDK if a lightweight clutch could agree with my driving style.
There was a time, in the beginning, when my combo was still on the drawing board, when I thought to install one, but I fought the urge, and, I've never been sorry.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
I’m running a Ram aluminum flywheel in my Duster. 422” W2 headed stroker. 2.66 first gear A833, 3.91 gears, and 28” tire. I absolutely love it. You know how when you mat the accelerator from idle in neutral and it takes a second or two to reach 4 or 5000 rpm? Well, with the aluminum wheel and a lightweight BALANCED rotating assembly it literally will hit 6k in the blink of an eye. Whole lotta fun when you leave a stop sign nice easy like you’re a little old lady and when you get through the intersection and rug it and all hell breaks loose. Good times.
I also run a Lakewood Scattershield and recommend anyone running an aluminum wheel behind anything with balls do so also.
I also run a Lakewood Scattershield and recommend anyone running an aluminum wheel behind anything with balls do so also.
WAYNE0
Well-Known Member
Its just a thought i already have the aluminum flywheel. Ill buy a steel one if need be
honestly, with a stroked big block i'd probably run a steel wheel.
unless it's set up for upper rpm or you're looking for maximum shenanigans, the steel would probably be the more prudent choice in this application.
I did in my Omni GLH... then engine seemed to rev quicker BUT it did take more throttle to get the car moving. I almost stalled the car at the dragstrip because I didn't have my launch RPM's up high enough and with new slicks, there was no forgiveness, lol. I ended up going back to a steel flywheel... much better in my situation. A V8 may be a little more forgiving
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
I've had one custom-made with crank trigger notches to work with the Magnum factory EFI that I need to install. I'm debating if I should run a steel pressure plate or an aluminum one. I'm really curious to see how it drives. I don't mind some rev to get moving, having ridden light-flywheel high-torque motorcycles for years.
Is the torque spec on the flywheel bolts the same?
Is the torque spec on the flywheel bolts the same?
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
I put a 7lb aluminum flywheel in our spec Miata. Night and day difference with how the car pulls a gear out of a corner. The biggest difference to me was in engine braking, as it was non existent with the lightweight flywheel. Something to consider for a street car.
I went for the first ride in my car tonight since installing the aluminum flywheel. It is absolutely awesome. With the 4.10 gear and aluminum wheel the car rolls out like my old steel flywheel and 3.23 gears. Knowing how well it works now, I wish I had done it years ago. A quick stab of the throttle and the tires haze up, it revs like a dirt bike. I have put about 15 miles on it both in town and on the highway, it is the smoothest the car has ever run. I would absolutely recommend and aluminum flywheel. Again, like my earlier post, I have the 11.0 mechanical multiplication in first gear, which was described to me as most critical when using aluminum on the street.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
In my opinion, the smaller the motor, the more a heavy flywheel is the right choice. Especially in a drag racing situation where low-end torque is absent, and traction is good. A frequent failing of vw drag cars.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
I used an aluminum wheel in my 57 chevy, partially because of the weak stock rear axle.
But I ran it with a 360horse 350, Muncie, and 4.56s. I loved it. Revved like a die grinder
A heavy wheel is great for launching with traction, but after you leav3 the starting line/intersection, a h3avy wheel eats power like added car weight, especially in first gear.
If a person is willing to run the rear gear required, I think he'll enjoy an aluminum flywheel.
Oh, and as mentioned above, ALWAYS run a scattershield with an aluminum wheel!
But I ran it with a 360horse 350, Muncie, and 4.56s. I loved it. Revved like a die grinder
A heavy wheel is great for launching with traction, but after you leav3 the starting line/intersection, a h3avy wheel eats power like added car weight, especially in first gear.
If a person is willing to run the rear gear required, I think he'll enjoy an aluminum flywheel.
Oh, and as mentioned above, ALWAYS run a scattershield with an aluminum wheel!
Agreed. I had new slicks on that day too. Went back to a steel wheel.
Ironmike
Well-Known Member
I ran one for half a summer. For me, it was too herky jerky just cruising above idle. AND I picked up zero ET and lost a couple MPH. Went back to the lightweight steel from Mcleod? Can't remember...
In case anyone's wondering, at the time it was a 576 horse 412 stroker, 4 speed and 4:30 rear. 3068 lbs with me in it. 2017ish.....
In case anyone's wondering, at the time it was a 576 horse 412 stroker, 4 speed and 4:30 rear. 3068 lbs with me in it. 2017ish.....
What was your combo? Im not using it to pick up ET, rather to make the initial hit easier on the driveline as I cant afford an adjustable clutch.
Ironmike
Well-Known Member
combo is in my post. Edited it a minute ago.
Ironmike
Well-Known Member
I don't think it will soften the initial hit because more than likely you'll have to leave at a higher RPM. If I recall and it;s been awhile, the first hit I made it bogged. Think I had to set my 2 step at something like 5400 RPM. Didn't like doing that.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Get in touch with @weedburner and put a tamer on it.
If you have a 30 pound flywheel and a 15 pound flywheel the 15 pound flywheel will always have 50% less rotational inertia at any given rpm.
Your hucking and bucking at part throttle opening and cruise is almost always a carb tuning/ignition timing issue.
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