Aluminum intake clear coat?

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CudaChick1968 said:
Cleaning the outside of an old aluminum intake is all fine and good but, as mentioned, it doesn't usually last long. All that discoloration happens because aluminum is very porous; fuel and grunge essentially soak into the metal and embed over time with engine heat.

It has to be completely cooked out first for a few hours to bring all the trapped impurities to the surface, then get blasted, washed / dried thoroughly and quickly sealed with paint or powder to put a barrier between it and the things that cause future discoloration (exposure to the elements and fuel).

Restoring an intake well is a bit of work, and skipping any step merely earns you a few months before it starts looking like *** again. If you don't have a dedicated shop oven, find someone who does before you embark on trying to make it look better or it won't last. (Do NOT use your kitchen oven even if she's out of town for a few days ... EasyOff isn't gonna save it, or you, or that nasty smell, and I know you'd rather spend money on a new set of intake gaskets and RTV than on a new appliance.)

If you're going to do it at all, why not do it right the first time?

Gold members get a Labor Discount and military/law enforcement (past or present) save even more. I'd love to help!

Phoenix Specialty Coatings ~ Exceptional Custom Powder Coating

Thanks for the shout out @A56!
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And there's your professional response from someone who does this on a daily basis.

As CudaChick 1968 implies , prep is everything.

I believe mine stayed looking as good as it does because I prepped it and painted it immediately after taking it out of the wrapper.

I got sucked in by the nice finish from the manufacturer on previous aluminum intakes when I originally installed them , not thinking about how porous the factory finish is. It is essentially a dirt magnet that is extremely hard to clean and refinish once it gets dirty.

This time, I painted the intake immediately, about 5 coats, and now it is very easy to maintain. Just soap and water and an air hose to dry.

Cheers!!
 
CudaChick1968 said:
Since it's never been used that's an option, but the materials are pricey (+/- $300 a gallon). If it is used and sprayed without outgassing, blasting and cleaning, all the old grunge will return underneath it ... and be sealed forever under a tough coat of ceramic. Choose wisely.
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There's no old grunge since it is still wrapped in plastic in the original box but I understand the importance of good prep work. I will talk to the local coater that did my headers to see if this is something he would be willing to take on. Thanks for your reply to my question.

Bill
 
If I wanted the aluminum look..... Seymore Aluma-blast.
This is what i do to my aluminum intakes.....

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-Boosted- said:
Just curious.... would what I am thinking of doing something you could do at your shop?
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Possibly.

There are several different formulations of ceramic (for polished metals, firearm coatings, exhaust, etc.) including newer temporary ones for paint, headlight restoration and trim. I'm happy to talk -- give me a call anytime after 10 a.m. central.

Here's their website if you care to see what's available.

Cerakote.com - Global Leader in Thin-Film Ceramic Coatings | Cerakote
 
CudaChick1968 said:
Possibly.

There are several different formulations of ceramic (for polished metals, firearm coatings, exhaust, etc.) including newer temporary ones for paint, headlight restoration and trim. I'm happy to talk -- give me a call anytime after 10 a.m. central.

Here's their website if you care to see what's available.

Cerakote.com - Global Leader in Thin-Film Ceramic Coatings | Cerakote
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They make clear coats that don't have to be baked in the oven. My oven was really stinky for quite a while. Didn't realize what I had bought.

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Rug_Trucker said:
They make clear coats that don't have to be baked in the oven. My oven was really stinky for quite a while. Didn't realize what I had bought.

View attachment 1716133504
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You're right. I use a couple of the air dry formulations for stuff I polish / buff. Putting them under excessive heat is not a good idea though or it will burn and discolor. I guess you found that out.
What were you trying to do there?
 
CudaChick1968 said:
You're right. I use a couple of the air dry formulations for stuff I polish / buff. Putting them under excessive heat is not a good idea though or it will burn and discolor. I guess you found that out.
What were you trying to do there?
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I bought the clear that mixed with a pigment. "Blaze" was the color. It required 250* for whatever time. I put the whole amount in there and it didn't come out red. More pinkish. I did one glass jar of clear in the Preval aerosol applicator. The hot side of the turbo I did Glacier black.

No discoloration. That is the color it came out of the sprayer.
 
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