Another brake light issue

[DCtruckin]

Recently I noticed my brake lights don’t work on my 71 Dart. (I’ve also got digi-tail tail lights and love them, haven’t had an issue with them)Turn signals and flashers all work perfectly. Seems like they quit working after I replaced the turn signal “cam”(??) the brake light switch tests good, and I am getting power to the white wires in TS switch when pedal applied. When I hold a test light to pink, it slowly lights up test light and will blink and can hear the flasher activating or clicking, but no lights light up. Just want to determine for certain it’s the TS switch before I buy one. And also where would you find a quality replacement, ive got
An eBay switch that is junk, wrong color wires,wrong placement of wires etc. here is where I am getting power while brake pedal applied. The pic on the pink wire is when it first starts to light up, goes real slow ...

 

[BobW]

I would check & clean the connector at the steering column and the brake light switch at the pedal, as well as any ground points.
Electrical contact cleaner and a small brass 'toothbrush' work well.
Corrosion is sneaky!

 

[RedFish]

you are testing at the hazard switch. I honesty do not know if brake lamp current goes through or is interupted by that switch. What I do know... Brake lamp current goes to the turn signal switch. The cam portion interrupts the brake lamp path to one or the other when switched left or right. What is a brake lamp wire(s) when cam is centered becomes a rear turn wire when the cam is moved from center.

 

[Lord Sparky]

Neutral safety switch?

 

[TrailBeast]

Recently I noticed my brake lights don’t work on my 71 Dart. (I’ve also got digi-tail tail lights and love them, haven’t had an issue with them)Turn signals and flashers all work perfectly. Seems like they quit working after I replaced the turn signal “cam”(??) the brake light switch tests good, and I am getting power to the white wires in TS switch when pedal applied. When I hold a test light to pink, it slowly lights up test light and will blink and can hear the flasher activating or clicking, but no lights light up. Just want to determine for certain it’s the TS switch before I buy one. And also where would you find a quality replacement, ive got
An eBay switch that is junk, wrong color wires,wrong placement of wires etc. here is where I am getting power while brake pedal applied. The pic on the pink wire is when it first starts to light up, goes real slow ...

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I had to bend the contact wires on the signal switch closer together on the aftermarket unit to get everything to work right.
If you want a good switch without having to screw with or wonder if it’s working right contact /6 dan.
He has access to OEM switches.

 

[67Dart273]

There is a problem that can exist on Mopars with the integreated hazard switch. It happened on my 70RR "way back" in the 70's and it happened to two other guys who came into the Miramar Navy auto hobby shop. I "fixed" them by moving a wire on the TS switch which DISABLES the hazard circuit

The current flow into and out of the "black box" that is your TS switch is simple.........you have switched brake power going into the switch, and with the switch centered, that power goes out to both left and right lamps. You can check that down at the kick panel connector. As above^^ suspect and check both sides of the TS switch connector.

 

[Mike69cuda]

Have you checked you pedal switch?

 

[DCtruckin]

There is a problem that can exist on Mopars with the integreated hazard switch. It happened on my 70RR "way back" in the 70's and it happened to two other guys who came into the Miramar Navy auto hobby shop. I "fixed" them by moving a wire on the TS switch which DISABLES the hazard circuit

The current flow into and out of the "black box" that is your TS switch is simple.........you have switched brake power going into the switch, and with the switch centered, that power goes out to both left and right lamps. You can check that down at the kick panel connector. As above^^ suspect and check both sides of the TS switch connector.

Have you checked you pedal switch?

I’ve tested the brake switch, it works as it should. and I also tested the plug behind kick panel, no power to any circuit when brake pedal is applied.

 

[67Dart273]

I’ve tested the brake switch, it works as it should. and I also tested the plug behind kick panel, no power to any circuit when brake pedal is applied.

So what are you saying?

Sounds like it's a bad TS switch

 

[Northern Grit]

I’ve tested the brake switch, it works as it should. and I also tested the plug behind kick panel, no power to any circuit when brake pedal is applied.

On your new cam it has the 2 red wires, the one on the right is the brake switch current in. It passes thought to the back side into 1 brown, and 1 dark green wire. If your test light works on the red side with the brake pressed but not the brown side then that's where your problem is.
Pics of mine for ref. My right wire is factory white where yours is red. On the second pic you want to test the brown wire the other green is TS circuit.

 

[67Dart273]

Well look in some ways you should not even "be into" the switch. Treat the switch as a "black box" and that you have certain inputs and outputs. If one of the inputs is bad, then go back to that. If one of the outputs is faulty, then it's "in the switch." And of course be aware of the connectors.

So, in other words, go to the TS connector and check there.

Basically, you have "hot" power into the switch from the hazard flasher
You have switched power into the switch from the TS flasher
You have the switched brake light power into the switch

The outputs are the left front and the right front, and the left rear and the right rear.

The switch steers the brake light power to both rear lamps when centered, or cuts off brake power when one side is "turning"

You have a shop manual? You can download diagrams and service manuals free from MyMopar.

 

[RedFish]

Short once upon a time... Cousin Jack had a chevy van full of house building tools. Hauled his beer drinking no drivers license crew to job site every day. He got stopped and warning ticket for no brake lights, (turn signal switch was the fault). Early next morn' his crew sat in my drive way while I went under the dash and temporary linked white brake switch out wire to right and left rear lamp wires. He had working brake lamps while waiting to get a new TS switch installed.
Cancel cam only might have fixed it but... replacing half a switch never made sense to me so I dont do it. I dont know if @slantsixdan can get you a quality switch for 70 and later or not. It isn't on his website. Good luck

 

[DCtruckin]

So there is no power to any wires behind the cam when brakes pressed. Anyone have any experience with OER switches that summit sells? Looks like they have mostly good reviews. No power to these ones behind the cam...

 

[67Dart273]

I'm lost here. What I'm trying to get through to you is that mess you have in your hand, treat it like a "black box" Get a diagram showing the correct colors and connector where the thing junctions in/out of the column harness. Determine what goes in and whether that is correct, and what goes out and whether that is correct, and if not.........replace the switch.........or determine if the new switch maybe has some incorrect colors in the harness.......which I have heard happens.

What goes in:

Hot at all times, power into the switch from 4X flasher
Switched brake light power from the brake light switch
With key "on" flasher power from the turn signal flasher

So the above is 3 separate conductors into the switch

OUT:

Left front, left rear

Right front, right rear.

So that is 4 more separate conductors out of the switch

The left and right rear should pass through switched brake light power when the pedel is pressed. That is, with the switch centered, both rears should be "hot" with pedal depressed.

If not it is wired wrong or there is a problem in the switch IF it is getting brake light power INTO the switch at the harness

 

[67Dart273]

Also remember that just because something is "new" does not mean it is "good." (functional.) It could be the wrong application, or defective.

 

[RedFish]

The new cam has 2 pink wires. You used crimp connectors to attach those to a pink and a white. I think that white is where you'll find power from the brake lamp switch. I'll go to the basement later today and try to determine what would happen if the pink and white were reversed when crimped to 2 pinks but... only switch I have on hand is pre 70, no flasher switch on it.
All I know about todays aftermarket replacements switches is what I've read here. Several years ago there were a lot of issues with the Chinese made switches sold at ebay. Warped plastic foundation, contacts need tweaking, etc... Those production flaws may have been corrected by now.
Your original switch has a roller atop the horn contact. Any new switch will likely have a rounded top post that could produce a rub noise when turning the wheel. Less expensive to build is less expensive to buy. Far as I know, Chrysler is the only brand that had a roller there.

 

[Mike69cuda]

I bought a TS switch from classic or year one (don’t remember which) a couple of years ago. It was only about $30 or so on sale. It seemed to be well made and it has worked good since then. It was for a 69. Which ever one I didn’t buy from had what looked like the same thing for two or three times the price.

 

[67Dart273]

The new cam has 2 pink wires. You used crimp connectors to attach those to a pink and a white. I think that white is where you'll find power from the brake lamp switch. I'll go to the basement later today and try to determine what would happen if the pink and white were reversed when crimped to 2 pinks but... .

And if the new switch were colors are incorrect, but if the switch itself actually works, you can "sit down" and make a truth table and check it.

With the switch in neutral only 3 wires will show continuity.........the brake switch power in, and the left and right rear lamp wires

With the switch in "left" the turn flasher "in" wire will be connected to front and rear turn, and the brake switch wire will remain hooked to right rear

With switch in "right" the opposite of above

With switch in "hazard" the hazard power will show continuity to probably everything, possibly with exception of the turn signal flasher wire input.

Between some of the wires being correct color, you should be able to eliminate "what's left."

 

[DCtruckin]

So thanks your help, I determined it was the little wire contacts behind the cam. If you hold it in the exactly right spot they will work. I’m hesitant on buying the OER switch from summit. Is there anywhere or anyone who sells a quality replacement?

here’s where my issue lies. And yes, I Did clean up the contacts and couldn’t get it work work consistently.

 

[DCtruckin]

An update...

What ultimately caused my issues was the new cams "wire prongs" on the back of the cam, did not line up properly with the brass contacts on the switch side. So I ordered an OER switch from summit at 7p sunday, was in my front porch 10a tuesday and installed same day. Havent taken it out yet for a drive, but install was easy and everything works great now! Thanks for the help.

 

[Mike69cuda]

I tried a new cam too. Was a big waste of time and effort. I think the only thing a cam will fix is a broken off cam finger.

 

[DCtruckin]

I tried a new cam too. Was a big waste of time and effort. I think the only thing a cam will fix is a broken off cam finger.

Thats why I replaced mine. A cam finger broke off and wouldnt stay on to one side if you didnt keep your hand on it.