Another small bolt pattern wheel vintique steel wheel question

[thedave8]

Happy Easter everyone! So I ordered 2 of the 15x7 small bolt pattern steel wheels from Coker to toss on the rear of my customers 74 Duster. I double checked the bolt pattern was correct before mounting tires on them. It was. So I mounted tires and went to bolt them on but the way the center of the wheel is stamped, there is a raised lip around the hub flange area of the wheel that keeps the lug nut area from being up flush against the brake drum. When the lug nuts touch the tapered seats you can see a gap behind the wheel and the studs barely make it 3/4 the way through the lug nuts. Surely this isn't normal.....
Thanks for any ideas/ help

 

[green72]

pics of the lip you're talking about would help

 

[4spdragtop]

There was a REALLY recent thread about the same issue.
Chk this link, there are links within this li k that need searching as well.Coker Tire

 

[thedave8]

pics of the lip you're talking about would help

I snapped one on my way out the door from work, yesterday (that's where the car is) and when I just looked for it there was only a picture of the ceiling ‍

 

[thedave8]

Yep this looks like mine

 

[thedave8]

That confirms Coker sold me a known defective product, no wonder they were on sale

 

[thedave8]

There was a REALLY recent thread about the same issue.
Chk this link, there are links within this li k that need searching as well.Coker Tire

Good info, exactly same issue.....

 

[4spdragtop]

I bought a set 15x6 for the fronts from Jegs a year back. Im hoping like f**k there isn't the same issue....

 

[matthon]

The center is raised as well as the outer section around the lug nut holes.

Just the center cannot be raised by itself, if that were the case the lug nuts would bind the wheel.

First pic, original sbp centers inside a 15" barrel, the paint witness marks show the wheel is against the drum on both sides of the lug nut hole, but not around the lug nut hole itself.

Next, old school chrome 14" sbp, same, raised around the lug nut hole.

Next, new Wheel Vintiques 15" sbp, same, but different design.

Next, WV sbp 15" bolted on.

Next, older bbp wheels bolted on, look the same on the back as the new WV sbp.

Mag wheels, Cragars, Keystone, etc. are flat on the back.

I have multiple steel wheels, from the 50s up, none are flat on the back, in fact, the newer style with the 2 raised sections around the lug holes provide a better contact surface than the old school originals.

 

[matthon]

The links reference:

They fit over the hub just fine but there is stamped ridge/ring inside the wheel (not the ridge around the bore itself but a larger ring)

And pics of factory original wheels from the front that are clearly raised higher around the lug holes.

How could a raised ring around the bore inside, and the lug nut sections raised on the outside, be acceptable?

As the lugs are tightened down the wheel would be pulled in farther with the first nut, then bent with the following nuts.

 

[4mulas]

That confirms Coker sold me a known defective product, no wonder they were on sale

They aren’t known defective. It’s the way they are made. Once the lugs are tightened down the inner ring and outer ring will both bake contact with the face of the hub (the outer should be making contact first or in an un tightened state, if not check the hub register to make sure the wheel is fitting over it all the way). You may need to source longer studs. If a lug is near the end or flush with the stud once tightened that is good enough, unless you’re drag racing and using slicks, then they need to protrude.

Put a straight end across the rings, I imagine you’ll find the inner ring is less than one millimeter (1/32-1/64 of an inch) higher than the outer ring. This keeps spring tension against the lug. Mounting face when tightens

 

[thedave8]

They aren’t known defective. It’s the way they are made. Once the lugs are tightened down the inner ring and outer ring will both bake contact with the face of the hub (the outer should be making contact first or in an un tightened state, if not check the hub register to make sure the wheel is fitting over it all the way). You may need to source longer studs. If a lug is near the end or flush with the stud once tightened that is good enough, unless you’re drag racing and using slicks, then they need to protrude.

Put a straight end across the rings, I imagine you’ll find the inner ring is less than one millimeter (1/32-1/64 of an inch) higher than the outer ring. This keeps spring tension against the lug. Mounting face when tightens

No straight edge required, it is so large a lip.....I can't see how Having a a gap the width of the raised lip between the drum and the tapered seat with nothing for that lug nut to torque against could ever be safe/ acceptable, I wouldn't be surprised if the studs snap off

 

[thedave8]

I'll post pics with tape measure and straight edge tomorrow

 

[thedave8]

I bought a set 15x6 for the fronts from Jegs a year back. Im hoping like f**k there isn't the same issue....

It'll be easy to check, it is really obvious when you know what to look for

 

[4spdragtop]

Yep! F**k sakes!!
Bought over a yr ago, so im pooched, but ill contact Jegs.....

It'll be easy to check, it is really obvious when you know what to look for

 

[slantsixdan]

We had this same conversation the other day, about these same junk wheels, over on .org.

 

[thedave8]

Yep! F**k sakes!!
Bought over a yr ago, so im pooched, but ill contact Jegs.....


View attachment 1716529279

That's them

 

[jos51700]

If this issue is legit, dare I suggest what the country of origin might be?

 

[matthon]

Bought over a yr ago, so im pooched, but ill contact Jegs.....

Help me understand, how are you pooched?

I have the exact same wheels on the front of my 67, pics above, no issues.

 

[matthon]

I can't see how Having a a gap the width of the raised lip between the drum and the tapered seat with nothing for that lug nut to torque against

Lug nut doesn't torque against the drum (with the wheel absolutely flat against it), the torque is against the wheel.

It would be like having Cragars where the shank lug nut is flush with the inside of the wheel, the wheel would never be tight.

 

[4spdragtop]

The rim wont seat flat against hub with the raised lip(outside of bolt holes)

Help me understand, how are you pooched?

I have the exact same wheels on the front of my 67, pics above, no issues.

 

[4spdragtop]

Heres pics of my oem diy 15x8 rears

 

[matthon]

Factory late 50s early 60s Plymouth steel wheel, identified by the single smaller hole between two of the lug holes.

What part of the wheel is making contact?

 

[4spdragtop]

Thanks, yes starting to understand. The oem appears to have more surface contact tho.

Factory late 50s early 60s Plymouth steel wheel, identified by the single smaller hole between two of the lug holes.

What part of the wheel is making contact?

View attachment 1716529318

View attachment 1716529319

 

[RustyRatRod]

I'll throw my dawg in this hunt. The backs of the lug nuts are not the contact surfaces for wheel mounting. This is a picture of one of Vixens original 1964 small bolt pattern wheels. Notice how the lug nut holes are negative compared to the wheel contact areas. That's how they are designed. That's also why the factory lug nut torque is only 55 FT LB, so as not to distort the wheels. The positive bevel on the lug nuts meeting the negative bevel on the wheels is what holds the lug nuts tight. So Steve, your new wheels are just fine. They are DIFFERENT, but not WRONG. They'll be fine. Just torque them properly.

Sorry, I forgot the picture. LOL