Anti seize on collector bolt threads?

[67Dart273]

The other thing you could do is ONLY use grade 2 bolts and nuts. That way if they DO seize / corrode, you can break them off

 

[70SwingerGuy]

I used to think it was only for dis-similar metals……now i pretty much use that **** on everything. In big vibration areas I’ll use RTV. The premium situation is gonna be anti seize/flat washers/and nylocks….. actually maybe not for the collectors…. The lock washer setup probably better there.

$0.02

So I do not understand, Ive also been of this line of thought for years and only used it for dis-similar metals ie; steel bolt going into an aluminum head. It seems like people are using it like/in place of Loctite, why is this? I wouldnt think that antiseize has any type of thread locking properties, but obviously I may be wrong

 

[clementine]

So I do not understand, Ive also been of this line of thought for years and only used it for dis-similar metals ie; steel bolt going into an aluminum head. It seems like people are using it like/in place of Loctite, why is this? I wouldnt think that antiseize has any type of thread locking properties, but obviously I may be wrong

Almost using it like assembly lube. Yeah I dunno, but I seem to be using the high temp stuff a lot lately. Ill use loc tite on stuff too but if its coming apart soon or if its possibly coming apart soon I tend to use anti seize.

 

[Scody21]

So I do not understand, Ive also been of this line of thought for years and only used it for dis-similar metals ie; steel bolt going into an aluminum head. It seems like people are using it like/in place of Loctite, why is this? I wouldnt think that antiseize has any type of thread locking properties, but obviously I may be wrong

As noted it helps stop gulling. We don’t use it in place of thread locker. Since most of the nuts we use are K nuts, which are aircraft style Thin wall nuts, and we take stuff apart so often, we use it on everything putting item together to help get the correct torque. Same reason of using oil on head bolts

 

[nutz]

I use nickel on the hot stuff, copper on everything else, and the aluminum when I can't find where I put the copper. A brush cap jar will last most people a life time; longer if you can't keep up with it.

when it starts to dry out add i little ps fluid ...softens it right up copper on hot ,silver on not hot ....copper lock nuts on exhaust

 

[LO23M8B]

I've been using anti-seize forever. I live in Michigan and I can put this on exhaust clamps on my everyday drivers and in 3-4 years later I can still loosen them. I've tried cooper, nickel they all seem to work fine. I use the cooper on all my wiring connections also. If I'm not putting lock tight or some other special lube on them I put it on everything.

 

[clementine]

 

[LO23M8B]

See Alice lately?

 

[TurboGLH]

Stainless bolts= no anti-seize
Std. steel bolts= Anti-seize
I use that sh*t on everything... since I can never seem to leave anything alone for long.

I always use anti-sieze on stainless, it's very prone to galling when you're using both stainless bolts and nuts.

 

[AbodyBB]

I hope I can clear this up.
If there is a risk of galling then you use anti-seize. Aluminum in copper, use anti-seize.
Stainless on stainless, will gall badly. We use stainless in the utility industry frequently and I am cutting stainless bolts regularly. With stainless you have to use anti seize.
On any exhaust system where thermal cycling is pretty extreme, you will have fast oxidation. I recommend using the copper based anti-seize on every bolt in it.
I also put it on lugs and other places where extracting damaged hardware is difficult. Torque to spec and you won’t have a problem. Remember though that the spec with lubricant is different than a dry torque.