Any major difference between weld/bolt in subframe connectors?

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Mopar to ya

Mopar to ya

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I need subframe connectors. I find bolt in and weld in. Is there any advantage or disadvantage to either one? I don't own a welder, but could probably get my hands on one if need be.
 
One you drill holes.....the other you melt metal......#-o
 
Always go for the weld on ones.
That being said go look at US Car Tool and get their frame connectors and torque boxes. They also have frame stiffing packages.
I got their weld in frame connectors but gotta order the torque boxes.
 
The US Car Tool connectors are great items. Not only do they tie the sub-frames together, but you can also weld them to the floor panels as they are laser-cut to match the floor profile. It really stiffens things up down there.
 
It is a good idea to weld them in, even the bolt-in style. I've always made my own....
 
There's lots of info here @ FABO about sub connectors. Seymour scamp makes some nice ones. They are simple,strong, and easy to install for weld-ins and dont seem to cause clearance issues with e-brake cables. tmm
 
I installed Mopar bolt in connectors from Mancinii for two reasons: one, at the time I did not have a welder, but did have a drill & a bucket full of wrenches, and once installed they can be welded in when the desire hits you; second there wasn’t a lot of fitting and prep work needed with car suspended by jack stands to install the bolt in units.

I’m not sure if welding connectors to floor provides appreciable extra stiffening against torsional forces as rocker panels are structural in an A Body. I suppose it can hurt anything only adding a lot of extra prep work and bead. If floors are not quite factory fresh but corroded, welding to them will do nothing but make a Swiss cheese mess along the welds.

This decision depends on your car’s condition, your technical abilities, shop's equipment level, and pocketbook.
 
The weld in type will be better over time. Bolt-in connectors will help, but they're there because the body flexes. This flexing will stress the bolts, and over time the holes will stretch.

You can weld in the "bolt in" type of connector, so if you don't have a welder you can get the bolt in type, bolt them in, and then drive the car down to a muffler shop (or similar) and have them welded in while the cars on a lift. Shouldn't take very long at all.

As far as the square tube style connectors vs the stamped kind that welds to the floor boards, you can argue back and forth for which is actually stronger. I personally think that the tubular type will add more to the stiffness of the frame, but they don't look stock. The stamped type that welds to the floor will practically look factory if finished properly, but they're much more time consuming to fit and install, as they require a lot more welding (the entire length of the connector, on both sides, twice). If your car is on a rotisserie that's not a big deal, but if your car is already complete with interior etc, the tubular type is much easier to install, as you won't have to run 20' of weld while laying on your back after removing all of your interior. And you'll have to fit them to the floor, which usually requires several trials, with lots of cutting and grinding in between.

It sounds like the bolt in kind is probably the better way to go for the tools you have available, and you can get them welded in when you get access to a welder. Or, just take it down to an exhaust shop and have it done there, with a lift and a MIG it really should only take half an hour if everything is already bolted in and cleaned up.
 
I was thinking bolt in and weld after as well. I will be able to weld, but not sure I want to take the interior out and scrape off undercoating to weld the entire length. I am going to do it on a hoist, so after reading all the replies, I think I am going to buy the bolt in and weld the ends as well. I will get strength both ways.
 
Mopar to ya said:
I was thinking bolt in and weld after as well. I will be able to weld, but not sure I want to take the interior out and scrape off undercoating to weld the entire length. I am going to do it on a hoist, so after reading all the replies, I think I am going to buy the bolt in and weld the ends as well. I will get strength both ways.
Click to expand...

If you check out hotchkis, they have weld-in sub frame connector without that does require you to wied to the floor. (it part of their TVS system).
 
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