Any Pertronix experts here?

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22dog22

22dog22

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Have a new Pertronix D141710 dist., need to buy the correct coil to use with it. I contacted Pertronix they state I can only use the 45111, .6omh unit, which a old style round type but when I read on web site , it states .6ohm or higher, I would like to run the 60115 unit, newer style estyle,which has 1.5 ohms , is it safe to use the one with 1.5ohms or follow the service rep. advice of the 45111 .6ohms, they same if I use the higher ohms both units will fail!

Dave
 
Usually the concern is about using a coil with too low of a primary resistance, which can pull too much current and burn stuff up. My instinct is that you will be fine with the 1.5 but will just get less voltage to the plugs.
 
22dog22 said:
Have a new Pertronix D141710 dist., need to buy the correct coil to use with it. I contacted Pertronix they state I can only use the 45111, .6omh unit, which a old style round type but when I read on web site , it states .6ohm or higher, I would like to run the 60115 unit, newer style estyle,which has 1.5 ohms , is it safe to use the one with 1.5ohms or follow the service rep. advice of the 45111 .6ohms, they same if I use the higher ohms both units will fail!

Dave
Click to expand...

This is a question you should ask Pertronix directly, they have pretty good customer support.
 
Using a coil with high pri resistance results in less spark energy, all else being equal. If the module will work with a coil that has 0.6 ohm pri resistance, I would find an E core that has ~0.6 ohm pri. They are more efficient than canister coils. There is a reason GM was able to run 0.080" plug gaps [ on some engines ] with a 0.6 ohm E core coil.
 
Thank for all of your input, per Pertronix, they tell ONLY TO USE the .6ohm unit or it will fry the unit in the Dist. and the coil , will go the safe side , although I would like the higher output unit. The sad part I already had ordered the 60115 was able to get a really good price, so when I receive it I will list it for sale since I can not sent it back! Evil Bay.
 
Just went and look at the PDF for that dist.. and it says .6 or higher, not just .6..

"The Flame-Thrower billet distributor can be used in conjunction with most ignition
coils rated at 0.6 ohms or greater. For optimum performance purchase and install a
Flame-Thrower high performance coil"


I'm using the flame thrower 1 coil with mine.. runs fine so far. Are you running boost or high compression?
 
Another vote for good old Mopar ignition.
 
This is so simple >

20240507_165948.jpg


1995 Ford F150, 2 spade E-Coil.

Screenshot_20230615-030755_Gallery.jpg


Straight 12 volts to the coil, no ballast resistors. Coil runs cool to the touch.

Quick starts, hot sparks, plugs burn clean.

Running this now on the '89 318 4 barrel conversion setup.

Starts like it has fuel injection on a cold engine, restarts on a hot engine just the same > no crank, crank, crank.

Based on the Ma Mopar electronic distributor.


☆☆☆☆☆
 
George Jets said:
This is so simple >

View attachment 1716249929

1995 Ford F150, 2 spade E-Coil.

View attachment 1716249934

Straight 12 volts to the coil, no ballast resistors. Coil runs cool to the touch.

Quick starts, hot sparks, plugs burn clean.

Running this now on the '89 318 4 barrel conversion setup.

Starts like it has fuel injection on a cold engine, restarts on a hot engine just the same > no crank, crank, crank.

Based on the Ma Mopar electronic distributor.


☆☆☆☆☆
Click to expand...
Bah humbug. lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
Bah humbug. lol
Click to expand...

It works so nice, and simple.

@318willrun showed me how to set these up 2 years ago. Have been a big fan ever since.

I figured it out that you need to run the straight 12 volt powered E-Coil for the hotter spark instead of the tower coils, while I was doing the test runs on the engine run stand.

Produces quicker starts, and removes minor ignition hesitations using the e-coil.

The e-coil is really the trick to it. The mopar electronic distributor and HEI just triggers it.

20240514_221820.jpg



☆☆☆☆☆
 
George Jets said:
It works so nice, and simple.

@318willrun showed me how to set these up 2 years ago. Have been a big fan ever since.

I figured it out that you need to run the straight 12 volt powered E-Coil for the hotter spark instead of the tower coils, while I was doing the test runs on the engine run stand.

Produces quicker starts, and removes minor ignition hesitations using the e-coil.

The e-coil is really the trick to it. The mopar electronic distributor and HEI just triggers it.

View attachment 1716249940


☆☆☆☆☆
Click to expand...
I know it does. I'm just messin with you. As long as there are still good parts for the Mopar ignition, that's how I'm goin.
 
George Jets said:
This is so simple >

View attachment 1716249929

1995 Ford F150, 2 spade E-Coil.

View attachment 1716249934

Straight 12 volts to the coil, no ballast resistors. Coil runs cool to the touch.

Quick starts, hot sparks, plugs burn clean.

Running this now on the '89 318 4 barrel conversion setup.

Starts like it has fuel injection on a cold engine, restarts on a hot engine just the same > no crank, crank, crank.

Based on the Ma Mopar electronic distributor.


☆☆☆☆☆
Click to expand...
that's SOOO less simple than a pertronix unit... 2 wires.. 1 to hot on coil one to negative.. done.. starts and runs perfect. and also no ballast needed
 
Totally going crazy with this car, I had a friend that is very knowable about cars, engine, wiring of cars, he came over, rechecked the timing, got number 1 up to top dead center, started with number 1 plug wire on cap, found I was 1 position off on the cap.

Tried to start, nothing, would not even try to start, my friend pulls out his handy danie spark plug tester light, hook up to number spark plug, crank have yellow/red spark, he states we should have a blue/white spark, feels bad coil, check to see what voltage is going to the coil while cranking drops to just under 12 volt [11.7] . I removed the ballast resister so full 12 volts to the coil. None Mopar ignition. Have all new spark plug wires.

I am running a new Pertronix 60115 dist. per them need a .6 ohm coil so I order 45111 which is a tower type coil, 45000 volts , get all installed, retest with spark plug tester light while cranking, still no blue/white spark, car no start.

Really running out of items to check, replace Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr!.
 
There was a guy on forums by the name of Dave Ray. Haven't heard from him for a while. [ Which is good because a lot of what he posted was BS ] Claims he worked on the development of GMs HEI. He also claimed he had 50 gal drums [ plural ] full of dead Pert modules....
 
You just don't see guys having mass problems with stock Mopar electronic ignition.
 
I have run the factory coil and the ballast resistor on all my cars for years. The higher the resistance the lower the stresses on the Petronix module (to a point).
 
I always run a 1.5 ohm and the ballast resistor on the Pertonix modules. I use to design electronics like this for the defense industry. I can come up with no reason adding extra resistance does anything but good things for the life of the module.
 
Extra resistance might make the module 'happier' but it also reduces coil current & voltage; could result in weak spark or no spark.
 
I just changed out the coil to cap wire, and then took note that I had the electric choke wired into the + of the coil. Took off that wire. need to see if it will start now. been very nuts with other problems, to spend much time on the car.!
 
22dog22 said:
I just changed out the coil to cap wire, and then took note that I had the electric choke wired into the + of the coil. Took off that wire. need to see if it will start now. been very nuts with other problems, to spend much time on the car.!
Click to expand...
I wired my choke to the key on positive going into the voltage regulator.. the choke only draws i think .3a then almost nothing when open..
 
Ok, Got some time to see where I am, as stated, I unhooked the electric choke wire from the coil +, replaced the coil to dist. cap wire, tried to start, wants to fire while cranking, when let go of the key , no firing, to review I do NOT HAVE A RESISTER BLOCK,[both the start and run wires are hooked together] I think I am Lossing the run power from the ignition switch. I know they say you can use a relay to get power to the coil, does any one have a simple wiring diagram? If I have a relay listed as 40 amps is that too high to use? or is just what the fuse you put in line will draw? The ignition switch [which was in car when I bought] looks like it was a used one and is wired into the harness[not factory connections].
 
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