Any tips for replacing the points and condenser on a 70 Dart slant six?

[Al Bundy]

I am going to replace the points and condenser on my 70 Dart slant six later today and I wanted to see if anyone here had any tips for doing this. Looking at the placement and angle of the distributor it may be tight working down there. Any tricks for doing it easily without pulling the distributor? I plan on eventually converting to the Pertronix Ignitor electronic ignition setup if I can find one for a good price. right now I am going to keep the points.
According to the service manual the points are to be gapped at .020 and timing set at TDC. I have a nice vintage 1958 Sun Power timing light,but no Dwell meter. any tips for setting the timing and gap correctly without a dwell meter? or will setting it to the factory specs get me where I need to be without one? Thanks in advance for any help/advice you may offer.

 

[Oaktree]

I am going to replace the points and condenser on my 70 Dart slant six later today and I wanted to see if anyone here had any tips for doing this.

Very carefully. Back in the day I used one of those screw-starter screwdrivers to get the screws in place...I was paranoid I'd drop one inside somewhere. Luckily never did. You also might want to go with a bit of an advance...5° or so...your slant will be much happier.

 

[charger426]

So I pulled my distributor as I had never worked on points or anything before my Dart. I bought new cap, rotor, wires, points, condenser, and plugs from RockAuto for less than $50. I know that you are supposed to set dwell but All I used was a feeler gauge on the points and its been running great. If you do pull the distributor just make a mark where the rotor is pointing and put it back their when you put it back in the car. Should probably reset timing anyway and you'll be all set.

 

[Al Bundy]

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll try and carefully do it with the distributor in the car first and see how it goes. I'll also try the 5 degrees before top dead center setting and see how it runs. I am curious though,if the engine runs better advanced why doesn't Chrysler recommend that setting over TDC?

 

[340doc]

Probably to meet some early emission standard. It will definitely run better with more timing

 

[67Dart273]

I never use feelers, only dwell.

Bump the starter, using something to jumper the starter relay, until the points are open "on the cam."

Remove points and condenser. Use blankets, mat over the fender, get yourself in a sober, relaxed, good mood, and take your time. As above, a "screw starter" is VERY much recommended. I've got a "split blade" one just like my Dad had that is at least 40 years old

Looks exactly like the bottom one. Even has a red handle

Apply a tiny amount of "cam lube" (hi temp grease) to the APPROACH side of the points rubbing block. The slant dist. rotates CW, so the approaching side.

Inspect the points cam, and wipe clean.

Install the points / condenser, and get two screwdrivers, and or snug the holding screw so you can still move the points.

"Adjust" the points "by eye" so they are open a bit. This takes a practised eye. I used to do this, probably would have to make a couple of runs at it nowadays.

Hook up your dwell meter and turn on the ignition, crank the engine and read the dwell. Adjust the dwell "on the starter" for the "low numbers" end of dwell which is "wider open." This allows for wear of the points

While / before you are doing all this, inspect the cap, rotor, for damage, grease, oil, carbon tracking, etc. Wiggle the shaft and look for obvious wear in the dist. Drop a couple of drops of oil in the felt in the end of the shaft.

SAVE the old condenser if it was OK.

Now start the engine, and re-check dwell. You may have to re-adjust as the running dwell and "on the starter" dwell may be off some. just observe the difference and compensate a few degrees.

Last, set the timing. Don't bump it up TOO much as this might cause over advance. Always bump up "a little" because as the points wear then RETARD the timing.

Recheck dwell and timing after 200-500 miles.

After you set timing, warm up the engine and adjust idle speed and idle mixture. Finally, "touch up" idle speed and mixture, and speed last

Be careful, when making carb adjustments, that you don't have vacuum hoses disconnected, which can affect

 

[Al Bundy]

I never use feelers, only dwell.

Bump the starter, using something to jumper the starter relay, until the points are open "on the cam."

Remove points and condenser. Use blankets, mat over the fender, get yourself in a sober, relaxed, good mood, and take your time. As above, a "screw starter" is VERY much recommended. I've got a "split blade" one just like my Dad had that is at least 40 years old

Looks exactly like the bottom one. Even has a red handle

Apply a tiny amount of "cam lube" (hi temp grease) to the APPROACH side of the points rubbing block. The slant dist. rotates CW, so the approaching side.

Inspect the points cam, and wipe clean.

Install the points / condenser, and get two screwdrivers, and or snug the holding screw so you can still move the points.

"Adjust" the points "by eye" so they are open a bit. This takes a practised eye. I used to do this, probably would have to make a couple of runs at it nowadays.

Hook up your dwell meter and turn on the ignition, crank the engine and read the dwell. Adjust the dwell "on the starter" for the "low numbers" end of dwell which is "wider open." This allows for wear of the points

While / before you are doing all this, inspect the cap, rotor, for damage, grease, oil, carbon tracking, etc. Wiggle the shaft and look for obvious wear in the dist. Drop a couple of drops of oil in the felt in the end of the shaft.

SAVE the old condenser if it was OK.

Now start the engine, and re-check dwell. You may have to re-adjust as the running dwell and "on the starter" dwell may be off some. just observe the difference and compensate a few degrees.

Last, set the timing. Don't bump it up TOO much as this might cause over advance. Always bump up "a little" because as the points wear then RETARD the timing.

Recheck dwell and timing after 200-500 miles.

After you set timing, warm up the engine and adjust idle speed and idle mixture. Finally, "touch up" idle speed and mixture, and speed last

Be careful, when making carb adjustments, that you don't have vacuum hoses disconnected, which can affect

Thanks for the detailed info,I don't have a dwell meter though,only a timing light.

 

[67Dart273]

You can certainly use a feeler gauge, just make sure it's absolutely clean and dry, and be careful

You can find dwell meters on Craigslist and ebay. search "analyzer" as in "engine analyzer" and just the word "dwell."