Anyone Fully Plastidip their ride yet?

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porksoda

porksoda

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Joined
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Location
Clovis,NM
Well I am just curious if anyone has fully
plastidipped there ride yet. I am getting
interested in the kits from dipyourcar.com.
My paint in my truck has been getting worse
and worse.
First my clear started peeling. Now with all
this moisture we have been getting its even
worse now. Also we've have some pretty bad
sand storms I have drove through that has
made the right side of my truck look pretty
bad. Last my fiancée back my truck into a
dumpster this past Sunday. Lol. So the truck
need a new paint job. As much as I would
like to repaint it I don't have a paint booth
available to me anymore. I am actually
considering the whole dipyourcar kits. Come
with all I would need and I could do it in a
garage. I see they have glossifiers and
metalizers that make the palstidips look
pretty nice.
I am looking forward to see what ya have.
 
I have not done the whole car but I did play around with Plastidip on my Duster a couple weeks ago. Everything worked well and was easily done but I did not like the look once I was done and removed it all. It was smooth and well done, just didn't look right on my car. That part went well too but took a little more time than I thought it would to peel it all off.

Just did the Bumpers and a Hood Stripe.

Here is a link to what I did.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=226419
 
You don't need a booth to paint. Get up early to keep the bugs down on a calm day, ready to roll, wet the ground and have at it haus.
 
Seriously considering dipping my cars. I don't need a $1000+ paint job. My cars are drivers, not show cars. Before I found dipyourcar.com, I always wanted to try the "roller" paint job, but this seems WAY better/easier.

At the very least, a "real" BC/CC paint job requires that I buy or rent a $1000 air compressor and spray guns, at least $500 in primer/paint, masking materials, breather/filter, and the cost to build a temporary spray booth. Plus all the time masking, wet sanding, and other prep.

Looks like I can dip my car for under $500 TOTAL. And if I change my mind, it peels right off, or I can spray a different color right on top of the old. No masking necessary, no air compressor, no spray booth.

To me, $1000+ paint jobs are not for cars that get driven to work and sit in a grocery store parking lot every day like mine.
 
$1000 for equipment? C'mon man. $200 at most from HF, $150 compressor, $14 spray gun $30 for hose. If you have a problem buying something Chinese now a days, where everything is made, good luck craigslist.

You can get a roll of 220 grit wet sand paper, a rubber long block, tape, ebay $20 items. Use plastic to mask it off, see where I'm going with this? It doesn't have to cost a mint.

TCP global BC/CC is around $300 shipped, good stuff. I'm not saying don't dip your car, just most folks get ridiculousness on what you can get by with doing a paint job. If you think outside the box a little, you can get it done very economically. :roll:
 
PoisonDart74 said:
$1000 for equipment? C'mon man. $200 at most from HF, $150 compressor, $14 spray gun $30 for hose. If you have a problem buying something Chinese now a days, where everything is made, good luck craigslist.
Click to expand...

I didn't say $1000 for equipment, I said $1000 for a paint job, which would include materials. HF or not, where are you seeing a 5hp air compressor for $150? 'Cause that's what you need to spray an entire car. So, let's say I go Craigslist, and buy used (and questionable) equipment. I'm gonna spend at least $4-500, not including primer and paint. PLUS, if I've heard it once I've heard it a thousand times: a paint job is only as good as your prep. How many man-hours is that? Dip your car -- NO prep. Period. You can spray everything, and peel away what you don't want painted. The only reason to mask is to save product. Call me lazy or "time-challenged", but that sounds AWESOME.

PoisonDart74 said:
You can get a roll of 220 grit wet sand paper, a rubber long block, tape, ebay $20 items. Use plastic to mask it off, see where I'm going with this?
Click to expand...

Sure I do! Sounds like a lot of time, money, and energy that you completely avoid if you dip your car.

PoisonDart74 said:
TCP global BC/CC is around $300 shipped, good stuff. I'm not saying don't dip your car, just most folks get ridiculousness on what you can get by with doing a paint job. If you think outside the box a little, you can get it done very economically. :roll:
Click to expand...

Um, I think dipping a car IS thinking outside the box.

Have you actually researched dipping cars? The time and money to build a temporary paint booth (what's the point of painting your car if there are bugs and flying crap in it?) and the proper respiration equipment alone make dipping cheaper and easier than a regular paint job. All in all, if I shaved every cent, knew someone with a spray booth, and or could borrow the tools I needed, I might be able to get away with spending $500 for a "regular" paint job. Or, I could spend roughly the same amount and spray my car in half the time. Why would someone who doesn't already own all of the proper equipment for a "normal" paint job want to buy everything to spray 1 or two cars?

Plus, what about all the work involved in repairing the chipped paint when that shiny new paint job gets dinged at Kroger? Spray dip is repairable, and the fact that it's rubbery means it'll deflect more dings and chips than paint.

I'm not knocking "regular" paint jobs. If you've got $$$$, or you've painted cars before and have experience, or have buddies who can help or loan you equipment, or you're willing to save your pennies for several years (or a combination of any of these), a BC/CC paint job is a great way to go. But if you have NONE of these, dipping your car sounds like a great option.

Why do folks always get defensive when someone suggests a non-traditional paint job? I'm not saying everyone should dip their car. I'm just saying if you've never painted a car before, it's a viable, affordable option, and (unlike a roller paint job) it's completely reversible.
 
I'm going to be doing this in the next few months, just to make my car presentable before it gets painted again. So Go For It!
 
call me old fashioned..... I would use paint bc/cc- just my opinion.. based on restoring cars for 30 years..
but i would try this on an old bicycle or tricycle..

How long does Plasti Dip® last? If properly applied, Plasti Dip® will last as long as 3 years without having to be retouched. It is very durable and will not lose it's bond. The spray distance when applying as well as the amount of coats applied will heavily determine the longevity of the product. After 3 years, or during the three years if desired, a new refresher coat can be easily applied.

- Will it hold up to the elements (sun, winter)? Plasti Dip® is extremely resistant to the elements, including sun fading, winter ice, cold, salt ect. A lot of customers actually dip their wheels and cars specifically to protect the original surfaces from the winter season.

- Will it hold up to heat and racing? Plasti Dip® is heat resistant up to 312 degrees F. Dipped wheels have a great record holding up to the heat and abuse from racing or rally events.

- Does it really peel off? Yes, Plasti Dip® really does peel off. We always suggest a minimum of 4-5 coats, not only for durability, but to make sure it peels off in large pieces when you are ready. Check in our videos section and you will see a video showing how it peels off of wheels, ect. It will peel off even after a long period of time - however after extreme lengths of time (8-12 months), it may dry out a bit and come off in smaller pieces.
 
Alright, I'm done being a *** about it. One last question, what about dipping something rusty? What kind of paint prep do you have to do? I'm sure there is some catch that makes it a little more work then y'all think it might be.
 
PoisonDart74 said:
Alright, I'm done being a *** about it. One last question, what about dipping something rusty? What kind of paint prep do you have to do? I'm sure there is some catch that makes it a little more work then y'all think it might be.
Click to expand...

Not supposed to dip over rust. Any surface with "tooth" (like bare primer) will make it difficult (but not impossible) to peel off. So, if the car needs bodywork, dipping a car doesn't save as much time/money/effort over a regular paint job. I'll also admit that, in many cases, dipping old cars doesn't look to be as practical as dipping new cars. To me, it seems like older cars often have a lot more textured surfaces and little nooks and crannies that might make it more difficult to peel dip away from trim. But you'd still have to mask/remove a lot of that trim for paint, so you're just shifting the work until the end of the spraying rather than doing it up front.

I've never painted OR dipped a car before. But after watching a few YouTube videos, I feel like I understand the process well enough to give it a try. Like I said, it's not for everyone. If your car is in bare metal or primer, this probably ain't for you. If you want the look of a classic, normal paintjob, or you want to match an original color, dipping ain't gonna do it. But I'm about as far from restorations as you can get.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mCb0915Kqmg"]Plasti Dip Like A PRO! How To: - YouTube[/ame]
 
When I worked in the Harley shops, one of the guys Rhino-lined his entire V-Rod.
 
where is the rest of the vid...looked for it on youtube...how do they finish the car ?

Grassy


vynn3 said:
Not supposed to dip over rust. Any surface with "tooth" (like bare primer) will make it difficult (but not impossible) to peel off. So, if the car needs bodywork, dipping a car doesn't save as much time/money/effort over a regular paint job. I'll also admit that, in many cases, dipping old cars doesn't look to be as practical as dipping new cars. To me, it seems like older cars often have a lot more textured surfaces and little nooks and crannies that might make it more difficult to peel dip away from trim. But you'd still have to mask/remove a lot of that trim for paint, so you're just shifting the work until the end of the spraying rather than doing it up front.

I've never painted OR dipped a car before. But after watching a few YouTube videos, I feel like I understand the process well enough to give it a try. Like I said, it's not for everyone. If your car is in bare metal or primer, this probably ain't for you. If you want the look of a classic, normal paintjob, or you want to match an original color, dipping ain't gonna do it. But I'm about as far from restorations as you can get.

Plasti Dip Like A PRO! How To: - YouTube
Click to expand...
 
grassy said:
where is the rest of the vid...looked for it on youtube...how do they finish the car ?

Grassy
Click to expand...

I couldn't find it either. :( I did find other videos that show how you remove the dip from headlights, taillights, etc. There are a few different techniques, but one way is to rub hard near a corner or edge with your thumb to get it started, then you can peel away the whole piece. I've also read that a lot of guys use a microfiber towel. Panel gaps and edges create their own starting points to remove the dip using the peel method.
 
If I removed all the trim and badging from my 67 fish, then poked golf tees in all those little holes ( 100 ? ), There went a day or two. Yes that would be the case with any paint job. Just saying ,What car would make a huge difference in the time rquired.
 
There must be a hardening period or someone could strip you car easily. I would have to see a lot more of this before I would commit my car. The big variable would be how it looked.

I have heard that some folks have their cars painted electrolytically.

Thanks for this share. I am amazed what is available today.

So many options.

Grassy
 
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