Anyone have 17 inch mustang wheels on their mopar ?

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Your issue is the 2005 and up Mustangs have more offset than the 94-04. So you have more positive offset there for need more of a spacer than those running 94-04 wheels. At this point you need to do the math between the two and add the difference to the spacer width, or measure what you need. This is why most avoid the 05-up wheels. Your going to need a long spacer in the rear or switch to a wider rear.
 
I have a 72 Dart with a 1965 B body rear, 73+ front disc brakes, 1/4" billet spacer on the front. Carefully use a drill bit or carbide bit and clean out the beveled edge where the snout of the disc brake rotor enters the wheel. Without doing this you can not quite get away with the 1/4" spacer. Or you can have the snout of the rotors machined some.
 
Forgot to add that I have the 2003 17x8 Mustang GT wheels.
 
grassy said:
Er....back to my question please.

The 17's are free including the rubber. An adapter or spacer for the 2 fronts will not cost nearly as much as new rimes / tires. I don't especially like these rims ( There was a reason I took them off my car) but this is a budget build.

The question at hand is how do I make these puppies work ? I understand that they are a PITA but they are my only option I have at the moment. I have a friend actually donating a second set of 17 inch rubber (45s) to the car as spares.

Is anyone running a 17 inch Mustang gt wheel 92005 -2009) out there and what did you have to do ?

Ian.
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That's the problem. The cost of the adapters drive the price up. You can search for earlier bullit rims in 17x8 with 5.92 backspacing and run 1/4" spacers.

But in the rear you will need 1.5" spacers Or run a rear end that is 3" total width wider than stock A-body. And then you will need to relocate the axle spring pads. Sometimes that is an inexpensive way to get a 8 3/4 rear.
 
lee g said:
I have a 72 Dart with a 1965 B body rear, 73+ front disc brakes, 1/4" billet spacer on the front. Carefully use a drill bit or carbide bit and clean out the beveled edge where the snout of the disc brake rotor enters the wheel. Without doing this you can not quite get away with the 1/4" spacer. Or you can have the snout of the rotors machined some.
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In the rear, what is the clearance from the rims to your leaf springs?

Have you moved the spring pads over or leave them?

Any spacers in the rear? You are running 5.92" backspacing with 17x8 rims in the rear, correct? What size tires?
 
I am thinking that the only way I am going to find out if they fit other than borrowing (impossible) / buying an adapter is to know out the studs and put in larger 1/2 in bolts so I can see if a 1 inch adapter will work.

I thought that the tie rod end would be the problem.

ian.
 
autoxcuda said:
That's the problem. The cost of the adapters drive the price up. You can search for earlier bullit rims in 17x8 with 5.92 backspacing and run 1/4" spacers.

But in the rear you will need 1.5" spacers Or run a rear end that is 3" total width wider than stock A-body. And then you will need to relocate the axle spring pads. Sometimes that is an inexpensive way to get a 8 3/4 rear.
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A couple of adapters is far cheaper than 4 rims and tires.

I am using a 1 1/4 adapter on the rear.. normal a body 8 3/4. Please see earlier picture post.

What I am trying to ascertain is if I can use this rim on the front end.

Ian.
 
grassy said:
No. I have 6.5 backspacing.

My tires are 235/55-17. And a friend is giving me a set of 225/45-17 75% tread.

ian.
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Needs to be 5.5" in the front to get max tire.

Can you run the holes for the 5 on 4.5" all the way through your rear adapter? That way you could use them to mock up the fronts.

You can just release the torsion bars and jack the lower control arm back to ride height. Then put your adapter and rim on the car and turn the wheel side to side. Might have to hold the rim against the car if you can't bolt it on. Should have another person help you.

You could make a mock up spacer out of wood too.
 
autoxcuda said:
Needs to be 5.5" in the front to get max tire.

Can you run the holes for the 5 on 4.5" all the way through your rear adapter? That way you could use them to mock up the fronts.

You can just release the torsion bars and jack the lower control arm back to ride height. Then put your adapter and rim on the car and turn the wheel side to side. Might have to hold the rim against the car if you can't bolt it on. Should have another person help you.

You could make a mock up spacer out of wood too.
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I wish I could use the rears as a trial but they are converting the rear hub from sbp to large. My fronts are lbp.

Torsion bars are not on yet. Would this affect the attitude of the uca ? I never thought of that.

Stud length is a problem. What do you think about pounding out the studs and using longer 1/2 inch bolts for mock up.

ian.
 
How did you do the LBP in the rear? New axles and larger brakes? Newer rear end?

Just make a spacer out of wood, make a best guess at the max length and cut id down until it centers the rim. or you could take some measurements and back into the math.
 
Dano,

Yes..I went from a 7 1/4 to an 8 3/4 (sbp). I also installed 73+ disk brakes which happen to be lbp. As an aside, the studs in the rear are 7/16, right twist and the fronts are 1/2 right twist.

The spacer size isn't the problem ( I am an accomplished finish carpenter) but the length of the existing studs.

I only have been able to find 1 1/4 adapters so I'll start with that..

I was hoping someone had already been through this exercise.

ian.
 
What a great thread. I have (they came with the car) 265/35 18X9 Mustang FR500's on the rear beside one of them being brolen at the bead, I just don't like them, I am looking to go 17's to get a little better profile, I don't car for the loe profile 35's. Keep the info comming.

Bobby
 
BobbyY said:
What a great thread. I have (they came with the car) 265/35 18X9 Mustang FR500's on the rear beside one of them being brolen at the bead, I just don't like them, I am looking to go 17's to get a little better profile, I don't car for the loe profile 35's. Keep the info comming.

Bobby
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What make and model mopar is that with 265/35/18 on 18x9 FR500's? Any spacers? Which rear end?

Any pictures of the inside out side clearance?
 
It's a 67 Dart 270. I can take some pictures tomorrow. 3/6 inch clearance to the springs with a 1/8 in spacer, 3/4 inch tire to fender. Wheel wells have been removed for tubbing. Rear end is 83/4 looks like it was cut down, don't have the measurement of the width of the rear end, if needed I can get that just let me know where/how you want the measurement.

Bobby
 
BobbyY said:
It's a 67 Dart 270. I can take some pictures tomorrow. 3/6 inch clearance to the springs with a 1/8 in spacer, 3/4 inch tire to fender. Wheel wells have been removed for tubbing. Rear end is 83/4 looks like it was cut down, don't have the measurement of the width of the rear end, if needed I can get that just let me know where/how you want the measurement.

Bobby
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Have the springs been moved in?

Just wondering how the fitment would be with stock spring location and wheel wells. I have a 68 Barracuda that I am trying to stuff wide tire on that would share the same inner fenders and spring location as a stock 67 Dart. But I'm not tubbing it.

I still think it would be a good reference point.
 
I think the springs are in stock location.
 

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Forgot to mention that I included one picture with the 18's on the front. The low profiles just don't look right on this car.
 
grassy said:
Dano,

Yes..I went from a 7 1/4 to an 8 3/4 (sbp). I also installed 73+ disk brakes which happen to be lbp. As an aside, the studs in the rear are 7/16, right twist and the fronts are 1/2 right twist.

The spacer size isn't the problem ( I am an accomplished finish carpenter) but the length of the existing studs.

I only have been able to find 1 1/4 adapters so I'll start with that..

I was hoping someone had already been through this exercise.

ian.
Click to expand...

So are you looking for a spacer/adapter to fit these wheels and convert the rear to LBP? If so i might suggest just getting LBP axles and move to larger and wider rear drums. This will increase the width of your rear and lessen the amount of spacing you'd need. Or swap a wider B body 8-3/4 rear, this would require moving the spring perches. Either way, you'll need to do something or have something custom made for them to fit.
 
Are you contacting the UCA's on the edges? It's not the balljoint zerk is it? The zerk fitting is a known issue. Stock UCAs?

My math says you will need 9/16" to 5/8" spacer (15mm to be specific) on the front to get it to fit. No promises, though. This is based on the 17x8 w/ +30mm offset that is known to fit. Yours have 15mm more positive offset, so it should get it close. Make sure to check the clearance at full drop, hate to have a wheel lock up if the suspension dropped or something.

And you will need longer studs, no way around that.

I don't like adapters, but that's just my opinion. A small spacer isn't an issue as almost all of the new cars have rotors that slide over the studs, which might as well be a 1/4" spacer. 9/16"-5/8", might be a bit much.

Don't know for certain, but you might be able to make this work with one of AndyF's 13" Viper caliper kits. He machines a new hub and moves the mounting surface out .7" (I think). At the same time, I don't know if you can still get his kit, and it certainly doesn't fit in your budget.
 
Just arrived home from a few days of r&r. Hopefully, I will have more to report soon.

ian.
 
OK. I finally did the grunt work.

I popped off the rotors and pounded out the studs I then inserted 1/2 bolts that were double the length of the studs. I added washers to push the rim out 1 to 1.5 inches from the hub. We then stuck a jack under the tire and pumped it up to the end of the suspension. Then we rotated the tire through left and right.

The tire will be quite close to the fender if he intends to jump the car :)

No, i just have to buy adapters that don't change the bolt pattern.

mystery solved.

Ian.
 
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