demon seed
The Original Demon Seed
Gentleman, and you know who you are, my finger is poised directly above the delete button and another one is above the infraction button so move along quietly.
Anyone know of good factory replacment cross drilled slotted rotors?
- Thread starter J-MacsMopars
- Start date
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I run a small shop.I own a brake lathe and have never had a problem machining a drilled or slotted or factory rotor....If I have the adapter to chuck it up to my lathe,you got a machined rotor.
Lathe cuts from the sides,when spinning and feeds out from inside of rotor surface to the very outer surface,when the bit that is cutting the surface hits a hole or slot it cuts nothing until it get past that then continues to cut............
Machining a slotted, grooved or drilled rotor is no problem.
TXDart
Lathe cuts from the sides,when spinning and feeds out from inside of rotor surface to the very outer surface,when the bit that is cutting the surface hits a hole or slot it cuts nothing until it get past that then continues to cut............
Machining a slotted, grooved or drilled rotor is no problem.
TXDart
I agree.
When i was "wrenching" full time for a living, i never had any problems turning those types of rotors, wether they were my own, or customers.
cuda67
Well-Known Member
Check www.aerospacecomponents.com I have had their drilled and slotted rotors on my car for about 3 years. They are turnable and I have had zero problems with cracks, warping. I have their complete system and like the saying goes, "You get what you pay for." Alot of folks like to spread stories that they heard with no direct knowledge of the product or ever witnessing first hand the stories that they say are gospel. Take what you hear with a grain of salt. Do your due deligence and reach YOUR own decision.
Burntorange70
Well-Known Member
Is there a way to use this to turn down a rotor? Some kind of attachment or some thing? Be nice if I could if I had to. Thanks.
Sorry demon seed.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
Sounds good thanks! I feel even better now about buying them. Guys were scaring me, but the car is a weekend car when Im not in school, so Will be nice to have them!
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
Question, does anyone know if there is a reasonably priced 4 Piston Caliper that will bolt right on? It would only be natural to replace the stockers and put the new Rotors to some good use.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
Does SSBC sell some?
I do not think it would be worth adapting.You want the rotor to be spinning and set your cutting bits at just touching the rotor and then set the feed motor to start feed out.If That makes any sense...
Seeing your machine and the pulley setup only the top spins.
Man, You probably can make some neat stuff with that.
What have you made with it?
Just make something for someone that has a brake lathe and trade...
Most shops and auto parts around here charge $15.00 a rotor.
Martin
Burntorange70
Well-Known Member
Sonds like I could do it then. It also has a side thing you can put a part in and spin it. We are just getting the hang of using it. Here is a few thing we have done with it. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=147600
It sure is nice to have.
swisswill
Well-Known Member
And I'm sure they look great!
No BS! Do the research yourself and you'll find that guys who actually DO drive their cars hard have problems with cracking. And these aren't measily little A-Body guys, these are guys driving big-time cars, very hard. I won't ever run drilled rotors, ever! It's not worth the chance. Now, if all you do is daily drive your fancy rotors and look cool, odds are your rotors willbe fine. But, as the OP stated, he wants to drive hard.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
not to be a dick, but maybe manufactures shouldn't put them on things like 80g Benzes or vettes or anything of that sort, god for bid putting them on a Enzo. Are you talking quality of the product or overall?
Exactly. I don't plan to autocross or gymkhana the Dart, but mostly cruise nights and an occasional trip to the strip. They will be fine for these purposes. If I was planning on driving as described above, I would have gone with some big Viper brakes.
inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
For what it is worth I rode sport bikes for years. Never raced them, just played on the streets. All of them had drilled rotors and they all still experienced brake fade. I contacted EBC and was told by them that fade is more of a compound issue than anything, at least as far as mst street type of situations. I also managed to warp every set of rotors on the front of every bike I had, and they were all drilled, slotted or both. Not saying that they don't help, just my experience with them.
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
They are put on those cars, mostly because customers expect them to be on a car like that.
Same reason most manufacturers offer 19" and 20" wheels on everything now.
It's called marketing.
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
You bring up a good point.
It's all about the pads. People often look at these cool rotors and think they will be an improvement.
You want real improvement? Get a real pad.
http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/
Offers some nice stuff (along with others). These will give a real improvement.
But whatever you do........ Don't buy competition pads for your street car.
72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
Dont doubt what your saying a bit. One thing though, the cars these things are going on,3200lb A bodies, and the calipers they are equipped with,REALISTICALLY, are not capable of generating the heat or clamping force that would cause the cracking in the first place. Yeah I bet you are hearing and reading about high end stuff killing rotors especially when the cars in question have 13"+ in rotors and 4,6 and even sometimes 8 piston calipers and weigh between 3 and 4k lbs. Those things create HUGE amounts of heat and nothing but the absolute best available materials will do. OK back to reality if you guys are gonna get new rotors might as well get the 11.75" while you're at it.
71beater
Well-Known Member
Rotors ARE consumables, just like brake pads, period. Cutting for the most part is just trying to stretch the life. When I was younger i used to get stuff cut, but the second life really isn't nearly as long. In my last 250,000 miles driving in 2 different cars i have replaced the rotors almost as many times as the pads.
Pick whatever you want for the car, they're all iron, pretty much...Good friction and cooling properties. I've used cheap ones, expensive ones, and fancy ones...
All with about the same result. Your pads make the biggest difference, and yes,EBCs kick ***, as well as many others.
As for bikes, unfortunately, unless you buy something performance specific, almost all your rotors are some sort of stainless, which blows... poor friction properties, and even worse thermal properties, meaning fade. All your EBC replacements are some form of carbon steel, and generally superior in performance to stock as well as many so called performance rotors (insert your fancy brand here). The only rotor I'd waste my time and money cutting anymore is something totally obsolete, like my '72 Honda CB 500 rotor ( and yes! I will have it shotgunned w/96 holes!)
Flame on!
Pick whatever you want for the car, they're all iron, pretty much...Good friction and cooling properties. I've used cheap ones, expensive ones, and fancy ones...
All with about the same result. Your pads make the biggest difference, and yes,EBCs kick ***, as well as many others.
As for bikes, unfortunately, unless you buy something performance specific, almost all your rotors are some sort of stainless, which blows... poor friction properties, and even worse thermal properties, meaning fade. All your EBC replacements are some form of carbon steel, and generally superior in performance to stock as well as many so called performance rotors (insert your fancy brand here). The only rotor I'd waste my time and money cutting anymore is something totally obsolete, like my '72 Honda CB 500 rotor ( and yes! I will have it shotgunned w/96 holes!)
Flame on!
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