Anyone need this 70 340

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392Mopar

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Anyone really need this particular motor or want to trade for a slightly worked up 360?

Ok this is a strange one and I'm not sure where to post this but here it goes. I bought a running 340 for my Duster a while back and tore it down figuring I'd check it out and put back together an run but found some issues.I'm at the point where I'd rather spend money on getting the body and paint squared away on the car so I planned on putting this on the back burner till the car is done, but dont know when I'd get to it. So I figured before I do that, I'd see if there was anyone who really needed a serious 70 340 to build for there car. Heres the story...

It looks like it was a full on race motor, it is a .030 over 340 with 12.5:1 TRW forged pistons, forged standard crank with studded mains, external oil system, and hd smothed rods. It had J heads with longer than stock 2.05/1.60 stainless Manley( I think) valves, W2 style rocker setup( for the longer valves, double springs with damper with titainium keepers, positive seals, and had a full port and polish. It was ported into the valve cover bolt holes, which I heard was an old racer trick to open it to the max and the use of sealed valve cover studs would work fine. It also has a windage tray and a valley pan baffle,adjustable rockers (273's I believe) and a ported Edelbrock single plane intake.

The guy I bought it from recently got it in an old Barracuda and pulled it out in favor of a 383 and had no idea what it was. So much in fact that the little he drove it, he ran regular gas and when I tore it down I found a couple pistons that had melted at the deep valve recesses. The bores look pretty good with crosshatching still showing but there is a tiny bit of ware from the skirts on the bottom of the bores. Also looks like the crank could use to be polished or cut to be perfect.

My plan was just to hone it and drop in some pistons. I actually bought a set of the exact same pistons used and had them cut down to yeild a 10.5:1 compression with the 62cc heads(yes, I cc'ed them). So you could either use the pistons I have, hone, cut or polish the crank, reballance and reassemble.The heads look great but of corse I'd have a fresh valve job done.

The block is stamped 7-2-70 and 2780930-340-5 and the ID pad is
1B193352 . I would love to find someone thats looking to replace a non correct worked 360 in there car ( something I can just drop in my Duster)and trade for this setup but would take offers is anyones interested, but I know what I have and have no problems keeping it to build into a monster 340 when the time comes so please, no low ballers. I have a ton of pictures if anyones interested. If no interest then I'll pack it away for a later date, but I figured I'd trow it out there, maybe someones looking for a correct 340 for there build. Heres some pictures. ITs in Hazlet, NJ.

Butch
 

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A few more...
 

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too bad we are on opposite sides of the country. I would trade yha in a heart beat.
 
Yeah I figure its a long shot to find someone close that would be interested in a swap but figured I'd throw it out there seeing as this has big HP potential and I just need a hot street motor. Thats why I'd take cash offers too. Otherwize, I'll put it aside and build once all the paint and bodys done.

Butch
 
Found a couple pictures of the head. I took one set of valves out and cleaned it up a little, this it what I found...

Butch
 

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If that was a high-nickel 340-TA block and flat-top pistons, I'd swear that was my old race engine. Right down to the Rustoleum painted interior of the block and heads.
 
Anyone got a running 360 to trade? I'd take $1200 if no interest in a trade, for everything including the MP valve coveres that were on it and the set of pistons I had machined, use them or sell them and bore .040 for a fresh motor.

Butch
 
This is actually a 71 340 engine. I would guess that it is out of a Challenger or Cuda from the assy plant code "B". That was the code for the Hamtramck Assy plant.
 
Thanks for the info!!! Figured it might be for a 71 being it was made halfway thru 70 but didnt know for sure. Thanks!

Butch
 
The 8 digit VIN on it gives it away.

1B193352

The first digit designates the model year. In this case it is a "1" meaning 1971 model year.

The second digit is the car assembly plant. Here it is a "B" which was the Hamtramck assy plant. My 71 challenger convertible was built there.

The last six digits are the "sequence number" for the assembly plant. But two consecutive sequence numbers does not mean that the cars were built one after another in the assembly line. I believe that these numbers are assigned when they schedule the vehicle for production just before it gets "framed". They can get mixed up through the assembly process.

However, they are not necessarily begun to be built in order of the sequence number in the framing shop. It is rare that two consecutive sequence number cars are together at all on the assembly line. Once in a while it happens, but is not the "norm".

Framing is where they assemble and weld the sheet metal together.

After framing they get sent to the paint shop. If everything goes well, the car only goes aroung paint shop once...

But if the car gets a ding, fisheye, scratch, etc.. It must be sent through the paint repair loop where they fix the defect. If it gets a dent in the door or fender, they take one off of another defective body (same color) with a good part. If it is a paint flaw, they have repair guys in the paint area who are trained to repair the paint defect and blend it in. Then it gets sent to the assembly line where all the parts are assembled to the painted body. It is common for cars to get "out of sequence" in the paint shop.
 
If you decide to part it out, I'll take the adjustable rockers, shafts, hold downs, and valley tray.
 
$1050
Think I found a good candidate motor of my Duster so looking to speed up a sale


I'll go as low as $1050 for the 340 setup and even throw in a slightly used Comp XE274 cam( lifters got mixed up so it would need new lifters, and break in like new cam)

Might consider parting out if I cant find any takers for the whole deal, but will give a little time to sell the entire setup first.
 
I think the paint used for inside the engines is called " glyptol"
If that was a high-nickel 340-TA block and flat-top pistons, I'd swear that was my old race engine. Right down to the Rustoleum painted interior of the block and heads.
 
wish I had a grand. Think my land lord would mind me not paying rent this month ?
 
I would build the 340 and skip the 360.
steel crank, smaller mains......but what matters is you already have it, so the increase power from going with a 360 instead would be minimum and NOT worth the hassle of changing.imo


And if you stroke either, the 340 makes more cid...if it's a cid issue to start that is..
 
smlveightis, I'd like to find someone for local pickup, but if no takers locally I'd consider shipping, I'll let you know, I have one other that wanted it shipped, but seems like alot to ship.

Butch
 
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