Anyone used or know anything about these remanifactured long block magnums I can buy?

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M

maca

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Hey guys
Has anyone used one of the many remanifactured engines I see for sale on eBay and Craig's list. I have been looking for a 5.9 magnum to take back to Australia with me. However the machine work and parts are not cheap. For example I am looking at around
$500 to buy a magnum engine
$170 to buy rod,main,cam bearings
$115 rings
$26 rear main seal
$260 to hone and deck block
Equals $1071 for the short block but I can buy a short block already done for $900
And it can cost up to $650 to recon a set of heads in Australia which would cost $1721 for me to do a long block but I can buy a long block already done here for $1300 and that is with the block bored and new bigger Pistons installed where I would be reusing Pistons.

Am I missing something? It would seem crazy for me to do it all my self and cost more.
Unless of coarse the long blocks for sale are poorly made or poor parts used. They claim they use Pistons equal to the Oem ones and the same with the parts. If I go this way I really hope they do as I run a 600hp in my magnum engines and the stock ones I have rebuilt handle it fine. Anyone had any experience with these engines
 
That is usd but still heaps cheaper than Australia hey. I guess if I already had an engine it would be better to do the work myself but because I have to buy one too so it looks better to get a long block or a short block and some new eq heads
 
Do they want a rebuildable core in exchange? If so, you can probably tack on an additional $500, plus shipping costs.
 
The one I was chatting to said there wasn't a core charge but I just checked on there website and its says $300 core deposit so I guess they got that wrong
 
they can be good or bad but not great. Mass produced engines are just that. I have seen them built with different bore pistons, different bearing sizes on same crank, sleeves all rods go in a huge box then get resized and put in engines ie not kept as a balanced set.etc.

So if you are trying to get grandpas truck back on road, OK assuming you get warranty. Building a 400-600 hp performance engine, i say no.

Disclaimer, There are well built remans out there, I have not examined all brands, just 3-4 of the big ones. I have heard of a few manufactures building decent engines but dont expect to pay $1300 for one. I have heard acceptable results from blueprint engines, they have had a few dyno tests in the mags, BUT I have never tried one, just what I heard from a few "industry people".
You would probably be better off with 150K stock short block for $500 and new cam, heads than a cheapo reman without hypereutectic pistons and moly rings that came stock.
 
magnummopar said:
they can be good or bad but not great. Mass produced engines are just that. I have seen them built with different bore pistons, different bearing sizes on same crank, sleeves all rods go in a huge box then get resized and put in engines ie not kept as a balanced set.etc.

So if you are trying to get grandpas truck back on road, OK assuming you get warranty. Building a 400-600 hp performance engine, i say no.

Disclaimer, There are well built remans out there, I have not examined all brands, just 3-4 of the big ones. I have heard of a few manufactures building decent engines but dont expect to pay $1300 for one. I have heard acceptable results from blueprint engines, they have had a few dyno tests in the mags, BUT I have never tried one, just what I heard from a few "industry people".
You would probably be better off with 150K stock short block for $500 and new cam, heads than a cheapo reman without hypereutectic pistons and moly rings that came stock.
Click to expand...
I did wonder about the moly rings. I was told that these engines at 150k can have little to no ware and at 150k I can just hone and re ring without replacing pistons or boring. Is this correct in you experience with these engines?
I was going to use eq heads but haven't ordered them yet.
 
at 156K mine has no loss of compression.

You may not even need rings!
 
assembly line work makes labor cheaper. Rods are thrown together, remarked and static balanced (?) then they use the cheapest bearings they can source at 100 sets an order, they use Badger or other stock performance off shore pistons and rings assemble them and run them in. They work, but tolerances start to stack up. I bet half dont get bored as the sites usually say they inspect and "any out of spec" part is remanufactured (turned) or replaced. Spec is probably worse than what you could build.
 
This place claim they bore and use new over sized pistons but I do hear what your saying. If I do it then I know what's in it 100% but any other way I just won't know
 
magnummopar said:
they can be good or bad but not great. Mass produced engines are just that. I have seen them built with different bore pistons, different bearing sizes on same crank, sleeves all rods go in a huge box then get resized and put in engines ie not kept as a balanced set.etc.
Click to expand...

X's 2
 
I guess my question is - what happens to the money if it croaks in Australia? Mass rebuilder stuff plain sucks. All of it. It's only designed to run past it's own warranty. When I was a tech I installed many of them - because I was told to - not because I liked to. And there was not a single one that did not have to come back out or get replaced within or just out of the warranty. Plus - once it's gone through them, it's basically used up. So no further rebuilds.
If yo uwant a good magnum or tow pick some up and have them shipped in a container. They're cheap, and as said, very hardy except for the head castings that crack.
 
Article in hotrod mag pulled a 150 K mile short block out of wrecking yard, installed cam and EQ heads and it made over 400 hp. they did not re ring it and it obviously made good compression to make 400+ hp. With the hypereutectic pistons and moly rings, they dont really wear much. I have a 150K 5.2 in shop and there is no noticeable cylinder wear or ring ridge you can feel, no cylinder taper or out of round. Obviously, if it had low comp before then it would need rings etc. We test everything, compression and leak down, plug check and look in ports w light, then decide if it gets heas and cam or complete rebuild. Keep in mind, we are not selling these short blocks to customers, the customer supplies them, we check them out, then let customer decide if they want to rebuild or run it as is. Several we have done this with have 100K on them since and no problems. We do change freeze plugs and timing set. Many of our customers feel the gains from an additional $1500 in parts and machine work wont really make much difference performance wise. Evan
 
There is a big difference between a re-manufactured engine and a custom built engine.
 
Beware the bargain engines for sure. A friend of mine bought a "crate" magnum engine supposed to be close to 400 HP rated. It idles like it is pretty radical but not guts down low (even with a 2800 stall) and it has a "knock" in the top end that is too hollow to be valve train related. I'm pretty sure the cam wasn't degreed in properly and I would bet some pretty loose piston tolerances.
 

Watch doing a re bearing, the factory uses +.0005- +.001 bearings, code is stamped on crank arm telling you what went in the build. Not sure how hard it is to get plus sizes from aftermarket mfg.
 
thanks
Good to know. The last magnum I did I took it to a friends machine shop and asked him to measure it up before I brought parts. I will probably get him to measure it up again but I will check the frank too. What do I look for
 
factory service manual has the codes in it and tells you where to look on crank.
I am surprised that you cant find a nice 5.9 . If you were vacationing in Oregon I could point you to several for reasonable price. Just got whole Durango that I drove home, 5.9 Limited, 46RE to sell, leather seats and brand new tires to sell. it was $1000 and should get at least that much for trans and tires.
I know its tough with no tools or trailer, but keep looking and you should find one. Assuming you know about car-part.com? very helpful wrecking yard data base thats open to public for free.
Probably wrong time of year to visit Crater Lake :D
 
Thanks. Yes very hard with no tools. I would like to have bolted a set of eq heads and la pan on it to save on shipping but at least I found one yesterday already out of the truck. It was used for a while as a plow so might have done some hard work but only has 80k on it. Good thing is it has everything including aircon pump and alternator etc. Was $500 plus $270 shipping to Charlotte North Carolina. I think this is near Oregon isn't it? If it is i would be interested in hearing about the engines you mentioned as there are a few guys in my Australia car club chasing engines too.
 
Has anyone used one of these chain tentioners on a magnum engine? Am I wasting my money or are the a quality item.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Small...ash=item4af820db83:g:8NMAAOxypNtSmrbF&vxp=mtr
I have noticed on my other magnum engine that I am running a msd programable ignition on that the timing mark used to be solid as a rock. But since I have rebuilt it I notice the timing mark jumps around a little. Never done it before.
 
Oregon is on West Coast and Charlotte is on East Coast. About 3500 miles close.:D If you were to drive 750 miles due north of LA Ca on I-5 , you would be in Grants Pass.
 
maca said:
Has anyone used one of these chain tentioners on a magnum engine? Am I wasting my money or are the a quality item.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Small...ash=item4af820db83:g:8NMAAOxypNtSmrbF&vxp=mtr
I have noticed on my other magnum engine that I am running a msd programable ignition on that the timing mark used to be solid as a rock. But since I have rebuilt it I notice the timing mark jumps around a little. Never done it before.
Click to expand...

They work great, Mopar recommends them for high performance although many dont use them. Price is good, but shipping is horrible. We sell them for $49 instead of $45 but dont charge $25 shipping, they fit in USPS Priority envelope or box for $10 or less. Look it up on site to check shipping but its cheap. Also, if you were buying other parts it would just go in box with other stuff for free....
 
Much appreciated
I have found out they sell them in Australia but I have never seen them before. Your right that lots of people don't use them but I think they are great. Especially with close valve to piston clearances.
 
Hey guys
Has anyone heard of 5.9 magnum rod bolts letting go? I am probably around 500 to 600 fwhp (430rwhp) with all stock bolts including main caps and had no issues so far. At what HP do you guys start upgrading to arp bolts. If I am not spinning past 6000rpm I guess the factory main caps will be ok?
 
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