approximate effect of torsion bar adjustment

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There's ONE factor to consider for an approximate (what I inquired about) factor, spring rate, unless 72 Darts came off the assembly line with varying adjuster bolt location and pitch. It's math fellas, math does not lie, is not political, but apparently upsets a lot of people.
LMAO
 
The right answer came in post 2 and it’s what we’ve all done for years and years. Turn the bolt. If it’s not low enough turn it more. If it’s too low turn it back. I’m not sure why this guy went so Gary Busey on the easiest solution.
Cause he wanted a set-it-and-forget-it do it one time answer, and he didn't get it.
 
There's ONE factor to consider for an approximate (what I inquired about) factor, spring rate, unless 72 Darts came off the assembly line with varying adjuster bolt location and pitch. It's math fellas, math does not lie, is not political, but apparently upsets a lot of people.

Yeah actually spring rate has pretty much nothing to do with it. The biggest factor, as I explained, is actually the angle of the LCA at the current ride height. Hex offset is the biggest determining factor of that, and the hex offset was the same for all of the factory torsion bars. Now, aftermarket is a different story.

And yeah, there are two different thread pitches used for the adjusters themselves.

The right answer came in post 2 and it’s what we’ve all done for years and years. Turn the bolt. If it’s not low enough turn it more. If it’s too low turn it back. I’m not sure why this guy went so Gary Busey on the easiest solution.

I mean, that's the practical answer. Because yeah, by the time you work out a table relating adjuster turns to degree change on the lever, convert that to vertical change in the position of the lower ball joint and map that by LCA angle, and then measure the angle of your LCA so you can figure out how many turns to move the thing you could have just turned the adjusters to see what you got.

But yeah, you should be unweighted the LCA's, then turning the bolt, then putting the car back on the ground and rolling it to let it get to it's new ride height between each adjustment. 'Cause turning the adjusters while they're loaded is a bad idea. And if you're lowering, you also need to lower past the point you want to go and then tighten the adjuster to its final position. At least if you're gonna listen to the FSM, which says the final adjustment should always be tightening the adjuster.
 
I see the chart, but real life had my toe in to detriment. I was an alignment tech for 4 years. Very little adjustment, especially varying side to side, causes pull.
Have you ever raised/lower the car 2.225 and driven it getting go of the wheel..?

Yes, I have....many years ago.

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This car at this height was difficult to keep going straight but off road, it was fun.

That chart was probably printed with bias ply tires in mind. With radials, those amounts of toe change are likely even less.

That chart was plotted by Bill Reilley of RMS suspension. It was done for Mopar Muscle magazine and it was published in an article for them in the early 2000s. Nobody was still using bias ply tires at that point.
 
Cause he wanted a set-it-and-forget-it do it one time answer, and he didn't get it.
One thing wrong with the internet and forums now days. Ask a question and get an instant answer. No need to do any research yourself and learn something along the way. I have said it many times, "I have to look it up to tell you, you can look it up yourself"
 

I believe there is a way to do this in the book plus there is a measurement of front bumper height etc. You'll need a nice level garage floor etc.
 
I believe there is a way to do this in the book plus there is a measurement of front bumper height etc. You'll need a nice level garage floor etc.

There is a factory ride height measurement based on the difference in height between the bottom of the adjusting lever and the lower ball joint, yes. But it doesn't tell you where the adjusting bolt will be to make that measurement happen.

And that difference in height between the adjusting lever and the lower ball joint doesn't actually set a specific ride height as in a vertical height from the ground to the car, it actually sets the LCA angle. So, a different tire height would result in a different ride height, even with the factory specified measurement on the LCA.
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Ah yes I do remember if you are using a lift that you should roll the car a bit to settle the suspension the car will set with pos camber etc. I also remember the hunter machine software did not have the alignment specs for the 70 swinger and I had to enter them manually out of a Chilton manual just food for thought if anyone takes their car to an alignment shop. Even 25 years ago it was tough finding someone to align these cars .
 
One thing wrong with the internet and forums now days. Ask a question and get an instant answer. No need to do any research yourself and learn something along the way. I have said it many times, "I have to look it up to tell you, you can look it up yourself"
You have to do the research yourself to find out if the instant answer is the RIGHT one!
 
I remember using the book and it came out ok but I did the full alignment you can tweak from there but do equal turns each side one way is to mark the bolt head to the frame etc with chalk or paint.
 
There is a factory ride height measurement based on the difference in height between the bottom of the adjusting lever and the lower ball joint, yes. But it doesn't tell you where the adjusting bolt will be to make that measurement happen.

And that difference in height between the adjusting lever and the lower ball joint doesn't actually set a specific ride height as in a vertical height from the ground to the car, it actually sets the LCA angle. So, a different tire height would result in a different ride height, even with the factory specified measurement on the LCA.
View attachment 1716434068
Seems people just aren’t going to get it.
 
Ah yes I do remember if you are using a lift that you should roll the car a bit to settle the suspension the car will set with pos camber etc. I also remember the hunter machine software did not have the alignment specs for the 70 swinger and I had to enter them manually out of a Chilton manual just food for thought if anyone takes their car to an alignment shop. Even 25 years ago it was tough finding someone to align these cars .

Here's a fun one, the factory alignment specs are for bias ply tires, and are absolutely WRONG if you're running radials and will result in lousy steering response and handling. But you'll only ever find the factory specs in any of the alignment machines, and techs that don't know the difference between bias ply alignment specs and radial alignment specs.

I remember using the book and it came out ok but I did the full alignment you can tweak from there but do equal turns each side one way is to mark the bolt head to the frame etc with chalk or paint.
The adjustment usually isn't the same side to side. The corner loads are typically not equal, so, if you want the car to sit level the adjusters usually aren't set exactly the same. That's even more likely to be true given the age of these cars now, especially if original torsion bars are being used. Torsion bars sag radially, so, over time you lose ride height and eventually you max out the adjustment before you achieve the proper ride height.

Also worth noting is there are different diameter torsion bars I believe

Lol. Yup, there sure are. And as already mentioned, different diameter bars and different springs rates would not change the amount of ride height change for a given adjustment on the adjusting bolts. Only the thread pitch on the adjuster and the angle of the LCA would have a direct effect.
 
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This is a not great representation for this website.
Or is it. Too much of the bullshit going on, getting more common here

One post away from meltdown, then slinging ****. Not a good look fellas.
 
This is a not great representation for this website.
Or is it. Too much of the bullshit going on, getting more common here

One post away from meltdown, then slinging ****. Not a good look fellas.
Well, it was brought on by the OP. A lot of threads like this lately. People post wanting help, help is given and then it's "Eff you, don't tell me what to do" or some such. I wouldn't expect anyone to sit down and take that.
 
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This is a not great representation for this website.
Or is it. Too much of the bullshit going on, getting more common here

One post away from meltdown, then slinging ****. Not a good look fellas.
Just be aware ALL of the bullshit in this thread was brought on by the OP. Not one valued member resorted to name calling or bashing. Yes there was some fun but the low level **** was all him. I think it was a great representation of the good people here.
 
Just be aware ALL of the bullshit in this thread was brought on by the OP. Not one valued member resorted to name calling or bashing. Yes there was some fun but the low level **** was all him. I think it was a great representation of the good people here.
The guy in the other thread called me a **** and a jackass. From what I could see, he got by with it. All I did before that was ask for info from him. I recently got a slap on the wrist and post removed because I called somebody a name. I was firing back, though. More double standard. That's all that was done here. We asked for more information and got our heads taken off.
 
The guy in the other thread called me a **** and a jackass. From what I could see, he got by with it. All I did before that was ask for info from him. I recently got a slap on the wrist and post removed because I called somebody a name. I was firing back, though. More double standard. That's all that was done here. We asked for more information and got our heads taken off.
Well, let’s be honest. All of us that have been around here a while know you can be brash at times. But at the same time we know you’re true character as well. We know if you ever wore a shirt under your overalls that you’d give it to any one of our cats if they needed it.

:rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
Well, let’s be honest. All of us that have been around here a while know you can be brash at times. But at the same time we know you’re true character as well. We know if you ever wore a shirt under your overalls that you’d give it to any one of our cats if they needed it.

:rofl::rofl::rofl:
I happen to wear a shirt under my overalls all the time, thank you. lol
 
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