Are All /6 distributors the same ?

-
Yeah, I have one I can barely fit on at all, and another that fits so loose I don't trust it. The one I have on there now is an Accel. Not saying I recommend the Accel necessarily, but it did fit. Better luck going with the "better" brands, but even that's not a guarantee.

I know how you feel to finally get it running right. I slapped a new carb on my /6 this morning and it's like a new car. I'm a valve adjustment away from having it running like a sewing machine now. Sometimes it's just that ONE thing that makes all the difference!
 
No, there are different caps out there (the one I bought 4 years ago would not
pop on my new one like it should) and some rotors will not drop all the way down in the distributor..
 
Yeah, I have one I can barely fit on at all, and another that fits so loose I don't trust it. The one I have on there now is an Accel. Not saying I recommend the Accel necessarily, but it did fit. Better luck going with the "better" brands, but even that's not a guarantee.

I know how you feel to finally get it running right. I slapped a new carb on my /6 this morning and it's like a new car. I'm a valve adjustment away from having it running like a sewing machine now. Sometimes it's just that ONE thing that makes all the difference!

We was working on our /6'es at the same time 72Dodge :cheers:
I set my valves back in the winter (got bord) and she (Victoria) is digging the recurved distributor, my 390 Holley would not work the vacuum advance right so I blocked it off afew years ago, Wow did she come alive today :cheers:
I feel like I need to do an oil/filter change on my 170/ after the test and tune I did out on my back road black top :D memike needs a cool shower now :D
 
That's great news Mike...Glad you got it sorted out !
It's always the little things that get us,sometimes it's best to walk away for a day.
Glad to hear the recurve is working for you. From your old video,I knew I could help you with one of my recurved distributors.

Where do you have your timing set ? (Initial,Total) ?
 
That's great news Mike...Glad you got it sorted out !
It's always the little things that get us,sometimes it's best to walk away for a day.
Glad to hear the recurve is working for you. From your old video,I knew I could help you with one of my recurved distributors.

Where do you have your timing set ? (Initial,Total) ?

So far (but so far I have just drove it just 4 hard miles) 13 initial right at it and 33 Total so far, but I love it there :D I will take a slow ride in town and see how she likes it JD.
I still have to make my J.D .00001 tag for it and take pictures for my restoration thread. Dang bud!! she feels like a 2 stroke reving up so fast :prayer:
 
I drove to my friends house to return his timing light and in town for some
air filters for the house and she is smooth and running cool, it was about 84 degrees out and all is good, I just took me a little cat nap and Treva is happy to see another new upgrade part is dun :D She said when are you going to put that big thing you have wrapped up in the shop floor on it :toothy10::toothy10::toothy8: LMAO she is so cute :D
Not today dear Not today :D

She is talking about my new big valve head... I see Bill D. spent time on his slanty a day or two ago changing his head gasket and putting O rings in, I don't see how that great ol man does it :cheers:
 
I drove to my friends house to return his timing light and in town for some
air filters for the house and she is smooth and running cool, it was about 84 degrees out and all is good, I just took me a little cat nap and Treva is happy to see another new upgrade part is dun :D She said when are you going to put that big thing you have wrapped up in the shop floor on it :toothy10::toothy10::toothy8: LMAO she is so cute :D
Not today dear Not today :D

She is talking about my new big valve head... I see Bill D. spent time on his slanty a day or two ago changing his head gasket and putting O rings in, I don't see how that great ol man does it :cheers:

That old man isn't so great... if he were, he would never have put that engine together without O-Rings in the first place.

I am bad to play the optimist. hoping that the head gasket won't blow... but, it did.. Now, I get to pull the head and do it right. I like the sign that says, "Why is there never enough to do anything right, but there's ALWAYS time to go back and do it over..."

Still workin' on it.... we're S_L_O_W, you know...:happy1:
 
Glad you got Victoria runnin good again Mike. I know she's happy.
 
That old man isn't so great... if he were, he would never have put that engine together without O-Rings in the first place.

I am bad to play the optimist. hoping that the head gasket won't blow... but, it did.. Now, I get to pull the head and do it right. I like the sign that says, "Why is there never enough to do anything right, but there's ALWAYS time to go back and do it over..."

Still workin' on it.... we're S_L_O_W, you know...:happy1:
Slow and steady Bill, How are your ribs ? and is the black eye almost gone ?
I like this and need to put it up on the wall :cheers: Why is there never enough to do anything right, but there's ALWAYS time to go back and do it over, So true right there Bill memike like :D


Glad you got Victoria runnin good again Mike. I know she's happy.
Thank you Rob, heck she was running good to begin with (I thought), but now she is winding up and I have to be careful if I tromp on the little 170/6 and be ready to shift quicker when I do :cheers: This is a must do to anyone that has a slant powered by a 2 or 4 barrel carb that just will not work the advance correctly, Johnny Dart was right when he said I need a recurve dun on my distributor after seeing my video of my hole shot, now she realy comes alive and shocked me.. I am going to be watching my tail pipe and see if my fat/rich color changes some, I would rather run a little rich then lean :D
 
Slow and steady Bill, How are your ribs ? and is the black eye almost gone ?

I like this and need to put it up on the wall: "Why is there never time enough to do anything right, but there's ALWAYS time to go back and do it over, So true right? memike like :D


XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX


Memike;

Well, I have the slow part down pat, but I'm not too steady... LOL! The ribs are a lot better, but the shiner remains... I keep getting asked, "What did the other fellow look like???"

I tell them the truth... a 1976 Lincoln Continental trunk lid... :eek:ops:


This was a blessing in disguise; now we'll be able to run 25 pounds of boost if we need to.... and I have a feeling, we will need to... :D
 
Bill, is it even possible for you to post sumffin without somehow referrin to a turbo? lol
 
Bill, is it even possible for you to post sumffin without somehow referrin to a turbo? lol

It is, but what would be the point?

I mean, the slant six has this built in horsepower "limiter" that is impossible to overcome, normally aspirated, called a strangulated cylinder head, and the best way I know of to get decent performance out of one is to use some sort of forced induction; either supercharging or turbocharging. I guess nitrous would work as well, but seems to have a lot of problems I don't understand regarding temperature and pressure changes, so I try to stay away from things I don't understand... and that leaves forced induction.

There are two factors that point me in the direction I go; the small bore/small valve, built-in restrictions of the slant six, and its unusually robust construction which enables it to handle tons of boost without the usual problems, and thereby not be subject to the reliability issues that might plague lesser engines, like my 360 Magnum. When I say lesser, I mean in terms of how much boost they will acccept before they start spitting parts at you...

Both Ryan Peterson and Tom Wolfe have run boost levels of 28psi, or so, on their turbo'd slant sixes without hurting anything. If I tried that with my 360 Magnum, I'd be taking it home in a wheelbarrow...

And, at that level of boost, the leaning tower of power is putting out over 500 horsepower, an amount that will stand toe-to-toe with a lot of stout V8's on the street.

That kind of performance is just not possible without a hairdryer, or some other boost-making hardware.

Our engine hasn't approached that level because we weren't smart enough to seal it up (the compression/cylinder-pressure) with O-Rings, but we'll have to, now.

If I were going to build a normally-aspirated inline-six, and wanted it to get out of it own way without having to put the whole car on a starvation diet to get the weight down to, say, 2400-pounds like Guzzi Mark did, I would have built a 300 Ford six or a 292 Chevy six. Those engines both have large enough bores, (with room for big valves) and enough cubic inches in their OEM state, to make pretty good horsepower normally aspirated. The Ford has a 4" bore... The Chevy six has a 3.875" bore, both a far cry from the little 3.4" bore in the slant block.

Oh, you can put bigger valves in a slant six head, but 1.75" and 1.5" is the usual "oversize" valve size fitted (and, what our engine has) and the problem in going bigger is, there's just not much room.... and, if you do succeed in getting a bigger valve in there, the chances are its beneficial effects will be defeated due to shrouding by the combustion chamber walls.

At only 225 cubic inches, they are small to begin with, and stroking one very much is a questionable activity, because the stroke is already too long for rpm's much over 6,000... There's just no good way to make it much bigger. And, unless you can be happy with a 13-second car, looking at alternatives to the normally-aspirated slant six would seem to be not a bad idea if you want bang for your buck.

That's not to say you can't do like Mark Ethridge did, and build a featherweight race car that will run tens, normally-aspirated, but his car is/was unusually light, and not many folks are as talented as he is.

I know I'm not.

It is hard to get a normally-aspirated slant six into the thirteens, much less the twelves; look a the '68 Dart of the 805MoparKid, for example.

His car has a cam, high compression, a ported head, a 4bbl carb, headers and slicks, with a 4.10-geared rear end, and runs low 14's.

That's one heluvalotta work for a 14-second car, but the cylinder head is at the bottom of it.

If he were so inclined, I am betting that he could replace that cam with a milder one, change the pistons to some with 9:1 compression, add a blow-thru 4bbl and a turbo header, bolt on a turbo and have an 11-second ride, immediately. He might have to trade that 4.10 gear for a 2.76...

But, that's not his desire, so it probably won't happen. It's HIS choice...

I rant about turbos a lot because I see them as the ONLY practical way to be competitive in the street with a slant six...

Because of the restrictive design of the OEM cylinder head, I see trying to build acceptable performance with a normally-aspirated slant six as tantamount to running a marathon with duct tape completely covering your mouth... a handicap I don't need.

Forced induction, be it a centrifugal, belt-driven blower, a Roots-style positive-displacement supercharger, or a turbo, makes an end run around that bottleneck/head in a very meaningful way. The computer says (and, no, I can't vouch for it,) that only ten pounds of boost on a well-built 225 turbo motor, will make 343 horsepower.... enough to get your attention, and you can still run pump gas...

That's why I can't seem to shut up about it... it looks to me like the most intelligent approach to wringing significant horsepower out of our favorite engine.

Thanks for listening!:blob:

Now, aren't you sorry you asked???
 

Attachments

  • 100_3649.jpg
    40.5 KB · Views: 141
O may God I need a rev limiter now

She is Golden Johnny Dart :cheers:

Once I get to about 3.200 rpm she zips and I have to quick shift :cheers: Wow!
At a low cruising speed in 3rd gear about 35 mph do not down shift ;) unless everything is tied down in the truck because when she hit's about 3.300 or more
yea better be ready to shift :cheers: and do not miss a gear :heart: she rev's
like a 2 stroke at this time :compress: unlike before with out a recurved distributor she would just climb in speed slower, unbelievable how she carries threw the gears now :tongue9:... her nose stays up now Johnny Dart :burnout:
The tack (thank you ramchager) moves almost to fast for me after 4.100 rpm's now :blob: memikie likie :cheers:
Wow MeMike that sounds like she's running great now!!! :thumleft: I better not let my kid see this post. The slow increase in speed/revs that you talked about sounds like the way his / runs. But he has an auto so it will never have that get up. I know his carb is tired it's always wet, sometimes you can smell gas when you walk by.
 
Nope. There are two basic types. One for electronic ignition, the other uses breaker points. Besides the differences in the base plates (Hall effect sensor vs points), the base of the electronic distributor is notched to allow the leads from the sensor to come out and plug into the control unit.

As far as caps, points, and rotors go, I tend to stay away from anything in a blister pack. I had the cheap stuff come apart on me before, so I figure I'm better off putting better stuff in up front and avoid re-doing the job somewhere away from my garage at a time not of my choosing.
 
Wow MeMike that sounds like she's running great now!!! :thumleft: I better not let my kid see this post. The slow increase in speed/revs that you talked about sounds like the way his / runs. But he has an auto so it will never have that get up. I know his carb is tired it's always wet, sometimes you can smell gas when you walk by.
I took her for a 120 or more mile drive yesterday and she loves cruising 2.900 rpm's at 63 mph :cheers: I need cruise control to keep her there she want's to do 3.200 but that would be to far over the speed limit :D Your sons car may be needing a new plunger and set, and needle and seat sounds like or the fuel line is getting hot..
 
Nope. There are two basic types. One for electronic ignition, the other uses breaker points. Besides the differences in the base plates (Hall effect sensor vs points), the base of the electronic distributor is notched to allow the leads from the sensor to come out and plug into the control unit.

As far as caps, points, and rotors go, I tend to stay away from anything in a blister pack. I had the cheap stuff come apart on me before, so I figure I'm better off putting better stuff in up front and avoid re-doing the job somewhere away from my garage at a time not of my choosing.

Yes, of course good point. Reading between the lines though, the question was really about the distributor cap fit, and they all use the same cap/rotor so far as I know. At least nowadays they all come back with the same part #'s whether electronic ignition or points distributor.
 
You tell'em Bill :burnout:

That is ALL just my own opinion... nothing more.

It took me YEARS to figure this thing out; I am a slow learner...:banghead:

I was never enthusiastic about supercharging or turbos and went the bulk of my long (74 years, so far) with most of my efforts at making cars run better, achieved by using the time-honored methods we all know and practice; bigger cam, more compression, more carburetion, more revs, and headers.

I slowly became aware that those methods, while effective to a certain extent on a slant six, didn't seeem to pay dividends in the e.t. department, like they should have been expected to.

It took me YEARS for this to sink in.

Then, one day, it dawned on me; this engine is a poor performer, normally-aspirated, because of the parts in inherited that left it an under-achiever in the breathing department... and no matter what was done with a thousand band-aids to try to remedy the situation with better headers, more efficient intake manifolding, and custom-ground cams, the bottleneck-head was responsible for the poor cylinder-filling, and that didn't change, no matter what kind of hi-tech parts were bolted onto it.

As long as there was only the original-design head generally available for this engine (a head designed for the 170, a 33-percent smaller engine than the 225,) the die was cast... it was never going to breathe like it would have to, to make much over 1 hp per cubic inch, and 225 hp will give your 3,300-pound A-Body performance much like the Moparkid's '68 Dart.... low 14's at about 94mph. He has headers, slicks, a 4bbl, a cam and higher-than-stock compression. He MAY have a ported head with bigger-than-stock valves; not sure about that.

Wallace online computers says that it takes about 300 hp to push a 3,300-pound car into the twelves...

FABO member, Tom Wolfe, (Shaker223) took a 3,300-pound slant six Dart with about 100,000-miles on it, and removed the intake manifold, replacing it with a 4bbl-aftermarket manifold and Holley carb, and welded up a turbo inlet flange onto his stock manifold. He bought a stock turbocharger off a Buick Grand National in a nearby junkyard and bolted it onto his Dart's modified exhaust manifold.

Those are the only modifications he made.

After some preliminary tuning, he took the car to the drags strip, where it ran 12.95 @ 104mph...

Stock cam... stock valve train and springs, stock head and gearing...

Everything but the exhaust manifold and intake system was stock.

Here's the run: [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPe_vHwZsF4"]Slant Six Turbo 1970 Dodge Dart 1/4 Mile pass - YouTube[/ame]

When I saw that he'd put 21 pounds of boost through that motor and had picked up about six seconds in e.t., I decided to take a closer look at what might be possible with forced induction and a slant six.

What I learned, after all these years, was that I had been oblivious to the benefits that a hairdryer could bring to the party, if a properly-prepared slant six were used as the host motor.

Its more-than-robust construction made it a natural candidate for high boost numbers, and all of a sudden, that strangulated cylinder head was no longer a performance-killing factor!

So, I decided to try out my theory in the real world. Me and my racing partner, Freddie, built out own.

What I have learned is that

1. There is a LOT to learn about this...
2. There is a LOT to learn about this...

and most important,

3. There is a LOT to learn about this!!!:banghead:

It is not easy... It is simple in the application, but there are tons of pitfalls, blind alleys, details, and questions that are not easy to answer at all.

For example, we blew a head gasket running just ten pounds pf boost, for no reason at all two weeks ago.

Now, we have decided that not O-Ringing the block initially, was a bad idea and it WILL get O-Rings before it goes back together.

More $$$$$$$$$$$$$

We have spent countless hours trying to get the mixture "tuned" as regards the A/F ratio, so that detonation will not be a problem.

Unless you put together a Mega_Squirt system, or some other EFI fuel injector, don't expect to have a running, race-ready motor in a short time; it ain't gonna happen.

On the other hand, when this thing is "right" mixture-wise, even with only ten pounds of boost, it feels like a strong 340.

So, maybe we did SOMETHING right...

At any rate, I think that a 350 horsepower turbocharged slant six could be built with a Holley 350 or 500 2-bbl, and a Super Six manifold, using a Pishta-design J-pipe... but a Mike Jeffries (or, some other supplier,) ported head would be money well-spent on this motor.

A set of Wiseco forged pistons and K-1 rods would run the price up another thousand dollars, but the whole motor could be built for probably less than $3,500.00 and you'd have a motor that should go 100,000 miles with no problems.

And, push your A-Body into the twelves...

I don't think you can build a normally-aspirated slant six motor that will equal that performance for that kind of money...

You could probably do it cheaper with a V8, but a V8 that will push 330-pounds into the twelves is going to need some other parts in the mix, like a better cam than stock, deeper gears than stock and some aftermarjet parts in the intake/exhaust system.

It would be interesting to compare... :happy1:

Anyway, that's my story and I'm stickin' to it!!!!!!:cheers:
 

Attachments

  • 100_3720.jpg
    91.8 KB · Views: 110
Hay Victoria told me you got plenty to do drivin her around with her new distributor setup. lol

So true :D She is about to take me to my dr.s appointment this morning lol, I went out and my Ramcharger's battery is dead , someone did not close the back hatch good :coffee2:
 
Uh oh. Well you gotta real girl to back you up!!!!!
 
No! That's why I love you buddy! lol Your enthusiasim is contasgious. Don't ever change.

I'll change when somebody shows me a normally aspirated 225 that responds well to traditional hot rodding mods, such as headers, a radical cam, more carburetion and higher compression.

When I say "responds well" I mean something on the order of two hp per cubic inch. A 450 hp slant six without a power adder just ain't gonna happen.

'Til then, I guess I'll continue to preach the turbo gospel because it's the most practical way to make Ma's little Leaning Tower of Power competitive on the street.

The fact is, though, a well-built, normally-aspirated, slant six-powered A Body can be a really fun car because you don't need a ten-second A Body to have a very good time... I get carried away sometimes and it's boring to read the same thing over and over. I think I'll shut up, now....:cheers:
 
-
Back
Top