Attempt at home made t/a heads

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I don't know what your looking for from/out of this mod. I like what your idea is and the flow numbers look preety good for what they are coming from. While it took a lot of work to move the pushrod over, it is still basicly a stock head.

Via the numbers only, this should be a very good street performing head and I see no reason why you couldn't run well in a 1/4 drag.

While I myself wouldn't want to throw good money away and after bad ethier, I think getting the valve job corrected would be the right thing to do and to know where you truly stand on the head.

(Just thinking out loud-ish here)
I wonder what a good bowl porting would do?

Did you cc the runner?
 
fcm42000 said:
I took a good look at the bowls tonight, put ink on the valve seat put the valves in spun them by hand just enough to make a mark so I know exactly where the seat is. Well I did not do a very good job blending the bowls in to the seats, there is so much more flow to be had with just fixing that.

For some reason I did not turn on the light in my garage, just over the work bench instead, glad I did. As I looked in to the port, and the bench light is shinning on the combustion chamber, and guess what, light is coming in to the port. DAMN IT! wasn't the valve job supposed to make these surfaces flush with each other (rhetorical). Also as I spun the valves I noticed most of them aren't perfectly round, is this common.

I think it might be time to move on to a new set of heads. Next time I will check this before investing this much time.
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Could be the shop squirled the valve job = 'light & dark spots' from chattering

Blending to the seat is not necessarily a bad thing till you loose the shape by removing too much.imo
Different valve jobs can effect port speed and may or may not cause issues as well.
You can always move to a larger valve if you think another VJ is gonna hurt flow/air spd.

If the vj was good, those are good numbers still.
 
There are a few problems, the valve job is crap (one angle factory type) , the valves are warped (almost all of them), and the bowls aren't blended in to the seat very well, although the bowls in general look good (imo). 250 @ 500 is still impressive considering the circumstances, and remember this started as a junk smog head. Rumblefish, you really think this is still a stock head? 1wild, do you want me to send you this head to experiment with, I don't want it back.



While I am not an expert and don't have a flow bench I can't see how blending up to the seat where the seal is would hurt it, this is the smallest point in the whole tract and is essentially an orifice, if you are not blending flush to the seat then a smaller valve is probably going to flow more air.

At this point I need new valves, and a good valve job.

350+/- for a good performance valve job and new valves.

Then I have to do the other head , about 15 hours worth of work.

Hughes has a set of RHS's for $925 ready to bolt on, so for $600 more bucks, see what I am getting at, probably gonna do that. If I had caught this valve seat issue before I would have taken it back asap, but it is to late now, probably would have ran like crap and spent a lot of time trying to figure out why.

Who knows, later on when I go to a 408 maybe I can relocate the pushrods on the rhs heads, rumor is indy already has this in the works, but with their own rockers.
 
Regardless of how you proceed from here, I admire the time, and craftsmenship you have invested in this project. Anybody can unbox new heads and slap em on. I hope you complete the heads, and take pride in your accomplishment....well done :salute:
 
moper said:
Just my opinion, but you don't want to blend up to the seat angle. In fact, if you have three angles, you dont want to touch the first angle. If you have a modern 5 angle, you don;t want to touch much of the throat cut. That's a super-critical are and you'll make it look huge, but not flow as well. Also, because it is that critical, if the angles are cut poorly, your cylinder sealing and numbers will suffer too. You should not see light accross the seat.... That's a sign of worn guides and/or valves, and a poor valve job.
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While I am not an expert and don't have a flow bench I can't see how blending up to the seat where the seal is would hurt it, this is the smallest point in the whole tract and is essentially an orifice, if you are not blending flush to the seat then a smaller valve is probably going to flow more air.
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IF at all possible you want the smallest CSA (Cross Section Area) to be at the throat(the area you want to remove)

This would move your M-CSA (M=minimal or smallest) to the SSR , causing it to be the fastest air speed area in the port.
Not a good idea i thing.

Put a good 3 angle valve job on it, and run it.
 
Well, I know you have a significant amount of time and effort in them but you're basically working blind without knowing more theory.
The pushrod pinch does not become the restriction until there is a while lot more work done. I've gotten 245 out of a typical 915/X/J head with the 1.88 intake valve and mildly enlarged pinch (.060 or so wider), slight raising of the roof, mild laying back of the short side radius, and basically stock guide boss. With a 2.05 intake valve, some guide work, and more port work that jumps another 15 cfm at .500 and will be close to 270 at .600. I did not cc these ports but they were not huge. Just well thought out and the valve work was perfect. With moving the pinch you are free to do a lot more closer to the valve, but again, bigger is not better anywhere. Think "just big enough".
 
fcm4000, what is you goal with these heads and what is it going on?
Daily driver?
Street crusser ?
street/strip?
Trailer queen?
 
fcm42000 said:
There are a few problems, the valve job is crap (one angle factory type) , the valves are warped (almost all of them), and the bowls aren't blended in to the seat very well, although the bowls in general look good (imo). 250 @ 500 is still impressive considering the circumstances, and remember this started as a junk smog head. Rumblefish, you really think this is still a stock head? 1wild, do you want me to send you this head to experiment with, I don't want it back.
Click to expand...
I did miss/forget the bowl porting done, but basicly, yea, this is a stock head reworked and I like it. To bad you do not have the machines at home to go on. 1W&CG should take you up on this offer and mess with it as time allows.
I think the numbers are preey good for bowl work and a relocated P-rod. Should more time and R&D go into this, it could bare some really good fruit for a factory smog head.

Hughes has a set of RHS's for $925 ready to bolt on, so for $600 more bucks, see what I am getting at, probably gonna do that. If I had caught this valve seat issue before I would have taken it back asap, but it is to late now, probably would have ran like crap and spent a lot of time trying to figure out why.
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I see what your sayin about a RHS head. Anybody near ou that can help on the cheap?

Who knows, later on when I go to a 408 maybe I can relocate the pushrods on the rhs heads, rumor is indy already has this in the works, but with their own rockers.
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I've been waiting for someone to do this inexpensivley. MoPar had reissued the T/A head under a then modern casting number. The problem was, it was more expensive than a pair ready to run RHS heads now and they sold them bare. WAY to MUCH money for a bare set of heads.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
La ports have tremendous air speed, going big at a certain point is mandatory.

You have be able to get the bigger numbers to find this out;)
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When someone elses bench confirms you've reached that level, let me know....lol
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
You were already let know, that is if you read my 410 thread in which I mention my trip to IMM where the heads flowed the same number.:profiler:


Have a nice day.:wink:
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They did flow well! And....we're going to dyno the engine so we can see how the power #'s look compared to what the heads flowed on my bench.
Although so many other variables play into the final HP #'s but I think Justin will reach his goal without any problems.
Brian
 
fcm42000 said:
Hughes has a set of RHS's for $925 ready to bolt on, so for $600 more bucks, see what I am getting at, probably gonna do that.
Click to expand...

Just make sure you know what you are buying with these.
 
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