Automatic stalls in reverse.

-
AzDUSTER

AzDUSTER

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2016
Messages
102
Reaction score
21
Location
Glendale, Az
Hi - I have a 71 Duster column shift automatic with a 360 engine with less than 400 miles on it. Rebuilt transmission as well.

Has been running great but all of a sudden it completely shuts down in reverse. Started doing it randomly 2 weeks ago but now it is almost constant.

Shift linkage seems to be fine. Opened steering column and did wiggle test on the wires but could not get any clues from there.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
No experience with this one, assuming you are sure it's an electrical issue..... If so, I'd start by looking at the neutral safety switch... maybe swap another one in. You should be able to troubleshoot it's function, and the whip as well... maybe even disconnect the backup lights at the switch and see if you are making any progress.
I have seen valve bodies without clean neutral kill a car in reverse, but not like you seem to be describing.
 
Get it rolling backward in neutral then slip into reverse for a bit to see if it stalls.
 
727 904...???
These transmissions have a habit of breaking the reverse band spring... Of course just spit balling...
Many things are hard to diagnose via the Internet...
 
Is it killing the ignition or is it more of an engine stall like its trying to go in two gears at once?
If its killing the ignition there may be a broken wire or loose connection that gets bumped when you move your shifter.
 
Thanks for all of the help ... checked all of these things and then ended up replacing the neutral safety switch and the problem went away.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
Right, cuz everybody knows ur sposta put it in reverse while ur still under the car...
Click to expand...
You got a screwdriver up there pulling the reverse neutral safety switch plug out and catch the linkage and the first gear it's going to send it into out of park is reverse... Accidents happen and being prepared for them they may save your life one day...
I always leave the Jack under the car after I put the car up on jack stands because the last thing I want to see when the jack stand brakes is the jack that could have been under there saving my life...
Safety first....:thumbsup:...
 
How would the reverse switch cause the car to die? Its only purpose is to keep the car from cranking if not in neutral and to complete the circuit for the reverse lights. It has nothing to do with the actual ignition so once its running I dont see how it can cause the car to cut off.
 
I member having a 69 Coronet with the neutral switch jumped, nothing like starting the car up in drive and it starts rolling immediately...(do not do this at home...) :lol:
 
MoparMike1974 said:
How would the reverse switch cause the car to die? Its only purpose is to keep the car from cranking if not in neutral and to complete the circuit for the reverse lights. It has nothing to do with the actual ignition so once its running I dont see how it can cause the car to cut off.
Click to expand...
Y a know what this is the most brilliant post Ive seen in a while and Im not being a smart azz...:) I agree 100% I was going to guess the reverse band then say tweak the idle up a bit...
 
Hello everyone. I believe I have a very similar issue.
It’s a 1973 dart sport 340 car, with a 1971 360 and a 727. The 727 may be numbers matching, 340 long gone.

the car had been drag races then sat in a field for 20 years. The old owner stated that the rebuilt tranny and 360(probably has less than 300 miles on it). Then the son lost interest. Anyways, my problem seems very similar to the original problem on this thread.

So the car starts and idles fine. Has a mow but nothing major(most likely plugs or something). But when you go to put it in any gear besides park, with foot on break, it dies. It’s strange because it seems like it does when you release the break instead of when changing gear but not sure. The other thing that isn’t right is the linkage for the tranny. The orange tick is positioned about 1/4 inch away from actual park.

I was originally suspecting torque converter along with flex plate, but if the Neutral safety switch fixes it, that would be great.
I have a new safety switch on the way, because you can start the car in reserve(which is a definite sign of bad NSS).

Any thoughts at all?
 
ratty dart 340 said:
Hello everyone. I believe I have a very similar issue.
It’s a 1973 dart sport 340 car, with a 1971 360 and a 727. The 727 may be numbers matching, 340 long gone.

the car had been drag races then sat in a field for 20 years. The old owner stated that the rebuilt tranny and 360(probably has less than 300 miles on it). Then the son lost interest. Anyways, my problem seems very similar to the original problem on this thread.

So the car starts and idles fine. Has a mow but nothing major(most likely plugs or something). But when you go to put it in any gear besides park, with foot on break, it dies. It’s strange because it seems like it does when you release the break instead of when changing gear but not sure. The other thing that isn’t right is the linkage for the tranny. The orange tick is positioned about 1/4 inch away from actual park.

I was originally suspecting torque converter along with flex plate, but if the Neutral safety switch fixes it, that would be great.
I have a new safety switch on the way, because you can start the car in reserve(which is a definite sign of bad NSS).

Any thoughts at all?
Click to expand...
Has a misfire not mow*
 
I had many problems with mine, one was vacuum related. The vacuum fitting on the power brake booster was cracked, which I discovered while attempting to plug the hose.
 
Mojoe9955 said:
I had many problems with mine, one was vacuum related. The vacuum fitting on the power brake booster was cracked, which I discovered while attempting to plug the hose.
Click to expand...
Very interesting. I’m leaning toward vaccum and brake booster issue right now instead of torque converter because the problem occurs when involving the brake. Thank you
 
ratty dart 340 said:
Very interesting. I’m leaning toward vaccum and brake booster issue right now instead of torque converter because the problem occurs when involving the brake. Thank you
Click to expand...

think I might end up buying a new booster. This one is probably shot anyway.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
A short in the reverse light wiring circuit.
Click to expand...
Which has nothing to do with the engine running, it’s a relay that connects battery to the starter, neutral switch grounds the relay to activate the relay. Standard trans cars have the prong soldered to case. Run and start wires come from the ignition switch so maybe you got a wire added or crossed up from the ballast to relay. Something don’t add up here.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top