axle bearings, need help

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yeah

yeah

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Hi guys, so i know there is always been a heated debate over the green bearings and stock adjustable ones. Im doing a rear disk brake conversion on my 8 3/4 and i needed to get the green bearings for my axles. I called a machine shop to press them in and they are asking me for instructions for doing it? Is there some kind of instructions that they need to follow to press them in ? cause i have no idea???? please help

Thanks
 
Some have a snap ring, others have an O-ring while some came with nether. Some of the disc brake kits require the Green bearing with the snap ring on the outside. Your instructions in your disc brake kit should cover this info.
 
hey thanks for the response, my bearing kit is the moser none adjustable one with snap rings and retainer plate. when i called right stuff asking about the green bearing they said any would work, but had to be green bearing. I was just confused about what the machine shop said . Like i know which things needs to be pressed on first and what not. But then i dont now how much it needs to get pressed in, is there like a measurement of how much it needs to go on?
 
So far as I know, the bearing should be pressed "all the way on" against the shoulder, so that it goes no further.
 
hey, see that's what i thought. Press the bearing on the axle all the way, then you press the snap ring behind it till it stops. but now i don't even know
 
I think your confusing a bearing snap ring and the bearing collar. The green bearing should press all the way on. Then the thick bearing retainer collar is pressed on all the way to the bearing surface. The snap ring I'm referring to is just that. A thin snap ring that goes around the out side of the green bearing and limits how far the axle/bearing assembly slides into the rear end housing.
 
This e-bay ad shows a good example of what I'm talking about. Shows the green bearing/retainer collar and the snap ring around the outside of the wheel bearing.


[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-8-3-4-Heavy-Duty-Custom-Axles-35-spline-Green-Bearings-1-2-20-studs-/261070390526?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc90204fe&vxp=mtr"]Chrysler 8 3 4" Heavy Duty Custom Axles 35 Spline Green Bearings 1 2" 20 Studs | eBay[/ame]
 
Hers is a e-bay ad that shows the same set up without the snap ring.


[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Axle-shafts-Barracuda-Challenger-E-body-Green-bearings-29-31-32-30-spline-8-75-/221342296427?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item338907696b&vxp=mtr"]Axle Shafts Barracuda Challenger E Body Green Bearings 29 31 32 30 Spline 8 75 | eBay[/ame]
 
hey sgbarracuda. Yea i totally got things confused. So thanks for providing me with the pictures and explanations. Got the bearings pressed in today. Hopefully when i put things together everything goes good.
thanks again.
 
Good to hear. Main thing your looking for now is that when you bolt the axles in that they are tight with zero in and out play. And when you instal the rotors that the caliper stand places the calipers centered as far as in and out.
 
could you explain a little more on why you would have to remove thrust block or shorten axles?is that because of disc brakes?tia,kent
 
kdsmith07 said:
could you explain a little more on why you would have to remove thrust block or shorten axles?is that because of disc brakes?tia,kent
Click to expand...

The axle thrust button is used with the stock tapered axle bearings. There has to be a way of adjusting one side (right side axle retainer was adjustable from the factory) that tightens the race/ bearing assembly. When you screwed the adjuster in on the right side, it would push the entire axle up against the thrust button and therefore push the left axle outward and eliminate the play in the Race/bearing assembly on the left side.
When switching to green bearings, this adjuster is not needed since green bearings are fixed race/bearing. When you bolt one axle in you will not be able to bolt the other side in because of the thrust button, it just won't allow the second axle to slide in far enough. The only solution is 1) remove the thrust button. Which is a little more hassle because you have remove the third member, take the Sg apart to remove the trust button. This is on a cone style SG. If you have a clutch type you can remove the trust button with just removing the third member and working form the axle shaft holes and drive the roll pin out from one side. These are three piece thrust button on the clutch style. One piece on the cone and open carriers. 2) or the other solution is to shorten each axle by aprox. 3/8" and leave the thrust button in.
 
that's some great info.i'm having problems with the green brgs in my 8.75.i think i know what the problem is now.thanks for the education sg.it's really appreciated,kent
 
Hey guys thanks for all the info. I had no idea that you had to remove the thrust button . The weird thing is . That either that button was removed a long time ago by so some one that had this axle , or I don't even know . When I got the new bearings pressed in . Everything went in like a knife through butter, slid right in and bolted right up .
 
The first time I did the green bearings, I did not know this. I installed the axles, without removing the thrust block. I thought everything was OK. Sometime later, I noticed the axle retaining plate had bent. The axle was not fully seated, and when I tightened the bolts the plate bent.

Personally I leave the thrust block in place, and shorten the axles. I will never replace the green bearings with the stock type bearings on axles that have the green bearing, but I might want to use the center section, in a different vehicle with stock axles/bearings. Or borrow a stock type pumpkin to try a different ratio. This way I can use whichever axles, or pumpkin, I want, without haveing to mess with the center section.
 
i'm on my 2nd green brg.on the drivers side and it's bad again.don't know why i've never been told about the button removal by the many mopar people i know.maybe i'm not the only one in the dark on this.you think that could be my problem?thanks again guys.this is good stuff.
 
kdsmith07 said:
i'm on my 2nd green brg.on the drivers side and it's bad again.don't know why i've never been told about the button removal by the many mopar people i know.maybe i'm not the only one in the dark on this.you think that could be my problem?thanks again guys.this is good stuff.
Click to expand...
Absolutely, It could be when you tighten down the axle retainers that your pushing on the other side axle and putting undue pressure on the bearings inside the green bearing assembly.
 
Can you see the thrust button by looking down a axle tube? If not get two broom handles, In-cert one on one side all the way into one side of the axle housing. Make sure it is smaller than the axle splines and make sure you seat it all the way in. Next in-cert another broom handle in the other side. If you can push one side in and the broom handle pushes out on the other side than yup you have the thrust buttons in your third member and you need to deal with that.
 
kdsmith07 said:
i'm on my 2nd green brg.on the drivers side and it's bad again.don't know why i've never been told about the button removal by the many mopar people i know.maybe i'm not the only one in the dark on this.you think that could be my problem?thanks again guys.this is good stuff.
Click to expand...

If you can't see a spot of light coming through right in the center where the axles go in, then chances are the thrust buttons/block (depending on which suregrip you have) is in there, it needs to come out.

Here is what I would do, if it's a clutch type suregrip pull the center section and knock it out. It's only held together with a pin, see here:

View attachment differential-pinion-thrust-spacer-kit-1.jpg

IF it's a cone type suregrip then the suregrip must be disassembled in order to remove the block, in that scenario it might be easier to shorten the axles a tad. You will still get good spline engagement because the green bearings allow the axle to set in just a touch more.
 
it's clutch type.i think i can come up with the special tools to do it.lol.this is great info.i'll get back with an update as soon as i check.thanks again all.kent
 
kdsmith07 said:
it's clutch type.i think i can come up with the special tools to do it.lol.this is great info.i'll get back with an update as soon as i check.thanks again all.kent
Click to expand...

You don't need any special tools, pull the center section, knock that pin out and the buttons will fall out. A lot of times that pin can already be broken, and they fall out anyway, depending on how old the unit is.
 
If you are running stock brakes, a stock housing and stock axles with (MO-400/ST-400) SNAP-RING style Green bearings, you do NOT need to remove the thrust block.

If you are using first generation (RP-400/Mopar Performance) Green bearings with the crimped-on retainer, you must remove the thrust block.

In addition, poorly designed rear disc brake kits such as Wilwood require thrust block removal.
 
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